So I've had a check engine light for the last year or so, with no associated codes, and I'm finding it difficult to track down the problem. I get the P1000 after clearing (non-existent) codes and the light goes out, but then it comes back after a few days/restarts.

The car is running fine, I replaced the EGR recently to solve an EGR issue, at least I replaced part of it anyway (solenoid and electronics) as in the image below:



But it seems like the car still doesn't want to complete drive cycles.

I checked with my scanner and it shows that the EGR cycle is incomplete:




But I don't know what to do to sort it, since it seems to be working fine. The EGR is spotless because I cleaned it when I had the recent EGR issue, all my boost and pressure sensors MAF, MAP, etc, seem to be fine, intake manifold is clean. And the car boosts fine too. And can't find any boost/vacuum leaks.
I checked the workshop manual for P1000, and it refers me to JTIS, and when I look at JTIS it doesn't have any procedure for the EGR, since JTIS is from around 2002, while my car is 2009/2010.

I haven't had much luck with JLR SDD (v130) either. I ran the turbo/EGR/emissions test and it came back with 5 out of 6 green boxes and one red, but it didn't tell me anything else, and no error codes in JLR either. And for some reason I can't get the WDS Datalogger to work.
I'm assuming it's some little problem with the EGR or emissions system, but I have no idea where to go next since everything seems to be working fine.

Any thoughts on how to proceed?
Or how to narrow down the problem?
Or even how to trick the car into thinking it completed a drive cycle?

My NCT is coming up in a month or two, and I'd like to get it sorted before then because they'll instantly fail you for a check engine light on the dash, even if the car is running fine. Last year I cleared the code before the test and I got away with it. Which also suggests that my emissions aren't through the roof or anything, because they're pretty strict on emissions..

 

P1000 merely reflects a reset or battery disconnection has occurred. The car then goes through a series of checks while being driven to set (reset) the various monitors = evap, O2, etc. IF they all pass you then get a P1111 code. If one or more of these drive sequence monitors fails, you then get M.I.L. and P1000 remains. You can search the forum for the drive cycle procedure(s).

 

Yea, I know this, and I have done a lot of searching here, but I can't find an exact procedure (if any) for my car (2010 2.2D automatic).

But it seems from here: Jaguar_32-Bit_ECM_Readiness_Setting_TSB_021210.pdf that you only need to do specific procedures for 2002-2007 2.5 & 3L V6, and that for other models they checks should be completed during normal driving.

I attempted the "usual" EGR procedure several times (from here: Jaguar OBD-II Drive Cycle Monitors : Step By Step Instructions (obd-codes.com)), driving at 2500rpm in 3rd gear for a minute, and then slowing down without brakes for 10 seconds, but it doesn't help to complete the cycle.

 

With the MIL on you have code(s) but it appears your OBD tool is failing to reveal it/them.

Another OBD tool is likely needed.

However, once you clear the codes you prevent the car flagging most codes until the OBD monitors set. You may be in Catch-22 where the codes can't flag and also the monitors won't set, all due to an OBD clear. Diagnosis can be tough at this point.

I believe the PDF mentioned doesn't apply to diesel cars.

 

Yea, that does seem to be the case alright, a catch-22, as I've also scanned the car with JLR SDD, and it doesn't show any codes either. But I'm pretty new to JLR and there could be something I'm missing.
I've also run the self diagnostic on the car (holding the Trip button) but no DTCs are logged either, it just says DTC: NONE TFB-00>*.

I could probably rule out the EGR itself though, since I replaced it, and the sensors seem to be fine too. I don't think I have any boost leaks either, and the electrics seem to be good, as I connected up the new EGR before I installed it and the plunger was moving fine: No power loss.
No excessive or smelly smoke.
No hesitation or juddering from the car.

It's kind of annoying trying to solve a non existent problem to get rid of a MIL!
I used to have random errors about communication faults with the TCM and ABS last year, but it seemed to be random glitches and the car always ran fine, but those seem to have disappeared now.