Check engine light came on. I was just sitting at a stop light I put it into neutral (this is an automatic) I do that usually just to save the transmission.


On my older maxima (96) I was able to use the built in computer get it to show me flashes on the actual check engine light itself, that would match up to codes (totally awesome) and you could reset to see if code shows up again. I wish all cars had this feature only had to use it ever once on that car though Now to the X type... This car it seems I have to get an OBD2 reader? (Like such OBD2 Reader CAN Compact Scan Tool )


Its not blinking so that is good, I checked oil the engine has coolant.. Not sure where the transmission fluid is though I think its a sealed unit do these need servicing?


Side note it was the first time I've had this car in below freezing I bought this car in June.


Its running smooth... Can I just ignore this will it go away on its own.. Its more annoying and I'm tempted to just ignore it then anything, but at the same time maybe its something serious that if left for weeks could damage the car (like a bum pcv valve or something)


What do you guys recommend?


Where can I get the codes too for the x type 3.0 engine (2004) even if I get the reader its useless without the codes


Thanks guys!


Jeff

 

Jeff,


This is definitely NOT a recommendation but just to let you know that the engine check light on my car has been on solid for more than 6 years.


Done 30k+ miles since without any hint of major problem or any loss of performance. The car has sailed through 4 "controle technigue" (MOT) including emission checks etc with the light on.


I finally decided a couple of weeks ago to try and sort it out. One of the reasons I just joined the forum.


I too would be very interested to hear recommendations for an OBD reader as that seems the obvious place to start.


I am sure we can find the codes somewhere on this forum.


B rgds


Hawthorn

 

Any modern car requires an OBD2 code reader to diagnose the check engine light. It's well worth the $20 to buy one, as it also allows you to erase the code. I have 4 cars and it's rare that one doesn't have a CEL issue!


Once you have read the codes, report back here and I'm sure someone will be able to recommend a course of action. Hopefully it is something simple!

 

OK know that you already did this, but did you check your gas cap. Lots of time is saved by checking it. Make sure it is tight. I even lube the collar of the filler with bearing grease, a...thought

 

The code reader should come with "OBD II" codes that are used by all manufactures (generic codes). Those codes should cover you most of the time. Then there are those manufacture specific codes (Jaguar in this case). You should be able to find those codes somewhere...maybe AllDataDYI.com I use the site for my Volvo and SAAB. I remember the site had SAAB factory OBD codes and the generic ones.

 

Just ordered this ODB reader from Amazon UK


BW® Autel MaxiScan MS509 Car Diagnostic fault code reader tool / OBDII EOBD Scanner Work for MOST Cars & Vehicles （Please Note: 1. Now this product does not need the battery；2. The CD is just for the factory's engineer testing, and it is useless for the client.）


Will let you know how I get on


b rgds


Gregor

 

Type76, I know this is going to sound silly, but you most likely have a vacuum leak and it is coming from the PCV valve hose or the brake booster line. Check both of those (especially the underside of the PCV hose).

But, like others said, get the codes read and then we can give more detailed info.

 

I carry a cheap & cheerful OBD2 code reader from Amazon ( £12.99 UK ) . it comes with a generic code booklet , it will also temporarily delete codes & lights .

Just one thing , I have never selected " N "at lights . Just leave it in " D " with handbrake applied . Auto are designed to work like this . It wont " save " the trans.

 

So the code came back as System too Lean (bank 2) P0174 this is what the code reader that O'Reilly parts store let me borrow came up with. Does this necessary mean the code is mapped correctly? When I first plugged it in it informed me it was linking through some ISO standard forgot the number. I figured this engine would have the same codes as a ford engine I mean it is a 3.0L ford would the codes be the same as MKZ?


How can I see if code P0174 maps correctly to system too lean" if Jag deviated and used different codes then other manufactures


I was able reset the engine check light with the device... I figured I'll see if it activates again.


Thermo, thanks for the advice with the pcv hose, I still have not replaced that "smooth" pcv hose you pointed out to me awhile ago when I posted photos of my engine, it seems still intact and fine it isn't compromised, yet... However when I was looking at the engine with it running last night I almost heard like it could possibly be an vacuum leak somewhere I heard some sort of sucking sound it sounded like it was coming from the top of the manifold there is a plastic cap on the very top of the intake manifold on the top right (cars right) of the manifold. I'll have to investigate further, maybe find someone else with the x type I can ask them to listen to their engine


The list of things that could be causing this was such an extensive list that seemed to include everything under the rainbow, it was like mass airflow sensor, pcv valve, vacuum leak there was like 30 other things on this "diagnostic list".


how can you test the pcv valve for leaking?

 

Five Speed, I think there is still a bit of friction though on the torque converter if you are waiting at a light, yeah its probably minimal but its still stress on the transmission. I usually keep cars way after their lifespan. I've done this on all my cars a 1980 olds (350 had 400,000 on it) and a 96 maxima 300,000 none of these ever had to have transmission work done on them.


The danger of putting it in neutral is when someone smacks you from behind your car will go flying into the intersection, so you have to hold the brake or you will roll into someone behind you.


Another thing is when you park it before put it in park pull the ebrake then shift to park, and when you leave put it in drive/reverse then release the brake. These things I know will save your transmission I cringe when I get in a car when you have to force the lever and it makes a nasty clunk going into gear because someone <ahem>my wife</ahem> didn't lol.

 

TYpe76, the PCV hose, testing it is pretty simple. Grab one end of the hose, pull it off the piece it is attached to and then pull the hose up. Run your hand across the bottom of the hose. If there is a rip, you will feel it. You can also roll the hose at this point and look at it directly. The split will be pretty obvious.

After that, get your hands on a can of ether. You will want to spray just a little bit on the junction where the brake booster goes into the intake manifold. Also spray the IMT valve joints (black circles on the passenger side of your intake facing the passenger front wheel). Finally, give the bulge in the middle of the brake booster line a quick squirt. If you spray something and the RPMs pick up, you have a vacuum leak at that point.

Based on the codes that you are getting, because it is only P0174, you most likely are looking at either the joint where the brake booster taps into the intake manifold or the top IMT valve is leaking. But, I am only basing that on what I have seen in the past. Spray all the joints on the intake and see where you find a leak.

 

If it is just the P0174 code I believe that would most likely be the bottom IMT O-ring that is the source of your leak. Very simple and cheap to fix. Best to replace both of them. Might take you about 10 minutes total to do them both. Maybe $8-$20 for the O-rings depending on where you buy them. If you still have the smooth PCV hose then I would have to guess you have the original yellow IMT O-rings too. The newer ones are green and are more robust. Do a search on here on how to replace.

Also, replace that smooth hose with the ribbed one and the brake booster check valve and more than likely you will be good to go. Cheap, simple preventative maintenance.

 

What is Ether like a tracer that lets you spot leaks that is inert when its ingested by the engine?


Thanks for these tips so far the light hasn't come back on my suspicion is maybe when its cold out, leaks are more likely as connections opened up because of contraction.

 

Ether is like starting fluid. If there is a leak somewhere. if you hit the leak with starting fluid it will rev the engine. so that is where your leak is. It helps find the leaks you would not otherwise find.


Good luck,
The Dr!