Drove the Jag today for the first time in 3 weeks. The ABS light was on as soon as I started the engine. I drove about 100 feet and the CEL came on. I circled around the block and put a code reader on it. I get C1175, Left Rear wheel speed sensor so that explains the ABS light. No other current codes. The only pending code is P1000, drive cycle not complete, which isn't surprising since I disconnected the battery not long ago. According to the Powertrain DTC Summaries I found here the P1000 does not cause the CEL to come on. So no current and no pending codes...why is the CEL on?

 

The P1000 does not mean anything.

It would not surprise me, if the CEL is on, BECAUSE the ABS light is on, and finding the reason for the ABS light being on could be anything from very easy to very hard:

1. Very easy fix would be: Just driving around - 5-10km approx. - that could solve it.
2. Moderately easy fix: Speed sensors:
3. Driving-you-nuts-fix: Intermediate contact in one of the connectors on the way to the ABS module:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...rosion-271898/

Don't just read the initial posting of mine, further down I fund the read issue: One of the many pins of the huge blue connector to the ABS module...

 

Thanks Peter. Nice detective work with your ABS issue.

Having slept on it I'm fairly certain my ABS problem will be in the wiring. When I parked the car 3 weeks ago the ABS light was not on. Yesterday the ABS light came on before the car was even in gear. The ABS controller could not have detected a problem with the sensor output because the wheels had not moved. The fault must be because the controller senses an open circuit or a ground fault, not getting the correct resistance at that sensor. Some field mice have taken up residence in the hood/bonnet liner fabric, I bet they have been nibbling on the wires.

 

This still leaves 3 probable causes:
1. "The unexplained", which can be fixed by just driving 5-10kms. The moment of "ABS self fix" would probably happen, while you park the car briefly and go shopping - when you then start the car again, it may have fixed itself.
2. As you write: wiring/mice.
3. Corrosion inside of any of the connectors, which leads to a sudden "non-contact" or worse: intermittent contact, which is more likely than "point 2.".

PS: About "point 1.": I have this issue with my X308: Every time, I do not drive it for a while, the ABS light wants to be part of the party. Driving 3kms, with a few stops even, will fix the issue. Hence, I can never drive to the rego-check (=MOT) directly, after not driving for a while, as the garage is only about 2km away.

 

Hi all
I have a 04 X type with a similar problem, ABS and CEL also the car loses power, surges, and wont change up gears. It seems to get very hot undrer the bonnet though the temp guage reads normal.

I don't have a code reader and my mechanic can't look at the car for 2 weeks!

Any suggestions are welcome.

Cheers,
Mike.

 

MIke367, go to your local auto parts store and borrow their code reader. Worst case, you will have to give them your credit card as a "deposit" Then write down all the numbers that hte machine gives you and post them here. We can then give you a much getter idea of what is going on.

If I had to guess as to what is going on with your car, I would venture to guess you have 2 wheel speed sensors that are going out. WHen you loose 2, the car is effectively "blind" as to how fast it is going. So, you will also see the speedo drop to 0 when you loose power and shifting. If this is the case, then we just have to figure out which 2 sensors are givign you grief.

 

If no such place, be sure to buy a good code reader.

 

Thanks mate,

it's a good idea but I don't think the auto parts stores do that here in Australia. I did manage to borrow one from one of the lads at work.

Two sensors with problems does fit, I might replace all four if it is a sensor fault.

Now, when I started the car the ABS light was gone, the CEL was there as expected. The code reader revealed 3 codes:
1. C 1175
2 . P 1111
3. C 1175.

I haven't googled the codes yet but suspect you're right and two sensors are faulty. But with the reader I have I don't know which ones.

EDIT. So the C 1175 is the left rear wheel speed sensor, I guess it was there twice because it's intermittent?

Thanks for your help,
Mike.

 

I think I will do that in the near future, do you have any recommendations?
The one I borrowed from a lad at work is a basic one, but works.

cheers
Mike.

 

Mike, based on your code, you need to determine if it is the sensor or the reluctance ring on the rear half shaft. If you pull the sensor, you can disconnect it from the car and connect a multimeter to the 2 pins (using an analog meter is best for this or a digital one with a bar indicator). You set the multimeter to read 2VDC and then with it connected to the sensor, you pass a large metal object near the end of the sensor. DO NOT HIT THE SENSOR!!!!! The closer and faster you can move the metal piece, the larger the pulse will be on the multimeter. If you do not see a pulse, then the sensor is dead. You can then look down the hole and look for some rectangular holes down there. They should be tight against the metal shaft. If they are rising up, your reluctance ring is shot. Finding just a reluctance ring can be challenging and replacing it requires the same steps as simply gettung a new half shaft. The last check is inspecting the wiring for any damage.

From there, once you solve the one wheel, you will need to wait for the kitty to throw another hair ball (code) to see which other wheel is being a pain.

 

Thank you

If or when the ABS fault returns I'll follow your advice.

Now there are no fault lights or codes and I'm still having the loss of power issue. I'll start a new thread as it may not be related to the ABS.

Cheers.