I've read up on this problem some. I have extreme problems with condensation building up on windows and windscreen when it is cold outside. I think it may be a mixture of reasons. I turned a/c on full and then held in the recirculate button and did not hear any difference in sound or air. Could this mean that the flap is stuck? If so is there a way to check it for problems and or fix it? Also, I have noticed every once in a while there is somehow I think water getting into the passenger side floorboard up front. No leaks around windscreen. I'm sure not related, but where is the drain for the a/c. I've heard that mentioned sometimes needing cleaned. Where and how. Thanks

 

I was having the same problem as you with condensation building up on windows on the inside. I took it to the dealer and they corrected the issue. On my bill it states: Heater recirculation door actuation. Then it continues to say fresh air door motor is loose from door.

Instead of replacing the whole unit which they said was expensive they used superglue on the door. They said it might only be a temporary fix, but it has not happened to my wife again in the past month, and it was really bad before they fixed it.

Hope that helps.

 

There is a service bulletin for this problem and it does involve super glue. First perform a proper diagnosis. Remove the wiper cowl clips where the cabin air filter is installed. You have replaced the cabin air filter haven't you? Remove the filter and you will be able to see into the AC/heater unit through a plastic grid. If you can see the blower motor fan the recirculation door is open. If you see a white/off white panel the recirculation door is closed. Have someone sit in the drivers seat and start the car. Have them press the recirc button and see if the door moves, have them press it again and see if the door moves. If the door never moves it needs to be repaired. If it barely tries to move it needs to be repaired. If it swings open and shut like it should your condensation problem is caused by a water leak somewhere.

There are 3 ways to repair this problem. First the cheapskate down and dirty (I just want my windows clear) method. With the filter removed and the door blocking off fresh air use a screwdriver long enough to reach through the grid and manually open the door by pushing it upwards. Don't worry, it has probably been broken for months and you will be doing no additional damage. It should move rather easily. Push it up as far as you can without forcing anything. It should move all the way up until you can barely see it, if you can see it at all. Now have someone start the car and press the recirc button to see if the door shuts again and blocks off the fresh air once again. If the door doesn't shut when the recirc button is pressed you are good to go. Your recirc door has been bad for so long it is totally stripped and you will probably have to move on to the expensive method if you really want it fixed. When summer comes you can reverse this procedure to close the door for max AC. Just remember to re-open it when winter is coming and you need heat and defrost.

The second method is the service bulletin fix. Don't count this fix out. It works on at least 90% and lasts if done properly even on badly stripped doors. I will describe the left hand drive method and I have no idea how this applies to right hand drive vehicles but I am sure it is similar. Remove the passenger underscuttle so that you can see the 3 servo motors attached to the AC/heater box. If you think about where the recirc door is(below wiper cowl) you should be able to easily determine which servo motor is at fault(the most forward upper). If you are uncertain, have someone start the car and press the recirc button while you lay on your back bent like a pretzel and watch the small shafts protruding from the motors. The one that moves when the recirc button is pressed is the one you want to fix. Make sure the recirc function is off, ie, select defrost mode on the highest heat setting. This will drive the servo motor to the fully open position. Unplug the 2 wire electrical connector from the recirc servo motor to lock it in the open position. Manually open the door through the cabin filter access if it is closed. Remove the recirc servo motor from the AC/heater box by removing the torx screws T15? Using super glue GEL apply an amount into the opening in the recirc door sufficient to take up any gap caused by the door cavity stripping. I'm not talking about a drop or 2 here. When this repair was common under warranty I would use an entire tube of super glue gel on 3 doors at most. Be careful not to get any on the joint between the door and the heater box or the door may become glued to the box and not move at all. Also be sure you use the GEL type for 2 reasons, you want it to take up the space and you don't want it dripping in your eyes while you apply it to the door. Reinstall the servo motor and give the glue time to set before testing. I would recommend at least 30 minutes and any longer is even better. Test operation after glue has set. If the door works a time or 2 and then quits moving see method 3.

Method 3, the ultimate fix is as follows. Get a copy of the JTIS disc for your X-Type. Completely remove dash assembly. Recycle AC refridgerant. Drain and either dispose of if replacing or store if reusing coolant. Remove complete AC/heater box assembly. Replace with new unit from dealer. Reinstall dash assembly. Recharge AC, Refill coolant and properly bleed cooling system. See JTIS for details.

 

thanks for posting the tsb

 

Looks like the recirc. door mechanism is broken, but I'd just like to add a couple of comments.
- When it's cold outside (below about 2deg.C ?) I believe the aircon may cut out, to avoid it freezing up [Maybe Real_Tech can comment further?]. When my external temperature sensor started to read much too low the car misted up badly, but the problem vanished when a new sensor was fitted.
- The cabin air filter is badly exposed if the black plastic "apron" that sits across the bottom of the front screen has lifted and left a gap above the filter. Any water running down the screen will find its way directly onto the top of the filter holder, and likely wet the filter itself - and then you'll get rapid misting up. On my car the locating strip on the "apron" has broken off, allowing it to lift about 3mm away from the screen, and the screen misted up completely every time I used the screen washer. I had to fit a shield on top of the filter holder to deflect the water (cheaper than replacing the apron).