BOOGER!

Car ran ALMOST hot yesterday and blew coolant everywhere. It got close to red and pulled over before it got too hot (WHEW LUCKY!) When I opened the hood coolant was everywhere and I inspected everything for a few minutes before finding that the nipple on the top of the coolant tank that handles the return from the radiator (the small hose on the upper left of the tank) broke off allowing the broken nipple and hose to fall off the tank. The tank pumped coolant everywhere.

Looks like I can get a tank off ebay for $87 shipped, but since this is obviously a design flaw I wanted to ask if anyone ever successfully got Jag to replace their tank under a wty or recall? The hose runs along the top of the hood lining and is not properly supported so it vibrates and the weight eventually breaks the nipple off the tank.

 

 

Same exact thing happend to my 03 2.5 about two weeks ago. Bad design.

 

First a new coolant tank is the least of your worries right now.
The upper hose, I believe, is the overflow hose and it is suppose
to vent fluid in the event of too much fluid being pushed into
the coolant tank. The largerlower hose in your pic goes to the radiator
and is where coolant is either drawn in as the system cools, or
allows excess fluid to go back in thank as it expands when the
coolant system comes up to temp.

You need to find out why your car overheated. Was coolant
recently added to the system for some reason? If the tank
is over filled when the system is cold it could overflow/vent
when hot. As far as the coolant tank, get a barbed brass
fitting, tap the broken opening on the coolant tank to
match the threads on the barbed fitting and screw it in with
some sealer on the threads and reattach the hose.

I could be wrong, but that is how most if not all automotive
coolant systems work.

 

I just replaced mine about a month or two ago..The replacement tank has been improved on and that nipple is reinforced now so it won't snap off for the reasons illustrated by "one"..But the reason the originals are failing is exactly what ONE says..Nice job one

 

Nice angle, but wrong. Your idea for a fix is however similar to mine, which I was doing when you were here typing. Just got back to see this thread, but the brass is not the best idea, you need to mate nylon to plastic.

This is the return bypass hose for the OUTPUT of the radiator. It purges whatever doesn't go into the heater core and returns it to the tank as a RETURN line. If it fails you lose system pressure in the line and start to warm up QUICK as this system is highly dependent on being airtight and pressurized. You can actually remove the tank cap hours after the car has been parked and still get a hiss from the pressure it holds without relation to the tmp of the coolant.

So anyway Ebay had a replacement tank for $75, another one for $175, and Jag wanted $200-ish for a new one. I decided 0.59 cents was pretty much enough to spend on a flawed design since Jag is not willing to help us out even though the acknowledge the issue and redesigned the tank.

1_ Nipple fitting from Ace Hardware (0.59 cents)
2_ Permatex black gasket maker
3_ drill and bit

 

I just hope none of the drill fillings will notplug up small areas in the thermostat and radiator core..

Plus, that fitting you put in better be pressure tight, because the entire system is pressurized.

Also the lack of pressure only reduces the boiling point to something around 212 degrees..the lack of coolant due to it boiling out at a lower temp is what causes the engine to over heat because not enough coolant is left to circulate.
The only thing I found to seal that type of plastic is epoxy..

 

That's what #2 on the list is for. Gasket sealer. I think we all pretty much get the jist of the operating system, I just wanted to post a fix.

PS- the return line is not held to the same high pressure standards so it is a little more forgiving. It has it's own area of the tank separated from the main part. (not completely separated)




.

 

I went to Lowes and bought a 3/8" ****** to 1/4"threaded brass fitting. It is a normal fitting for attaching hoses. Also buy a 1/4" drill bit tap which is designed to create 1/4" threads. This normally comes with an extra drill bit which you need to drill a pilot hole. Total cost $12.

I did not remove the tank I just drilled out the broken nipple on the car and made the hole clean. Using the tap and a socket wrench to help turn the tap in the hole I let the tap gouge out threads in the plastic hole. Once the tap was screwed all the way in and back out the plastic had perfect 1/4" threads. Put on some silicon pipe thread on the brass fitting and screwed it in place snuggly, but not crazy tight since it could damage the plastic threads. Used the old clamp to place the hose on the ****** threads and ran the engine and it looks great.

Good luck.

Mike

 

For some reason it does not like the word 3/8" b_a_r_b_e_d to 1/4" threaded brass fitting.

 

I had mine replaced. It seems to be a poor design.

I feel for you

 

Mine coolant reservoir tank just broke today. Maybe snapped off the hose nipple when I closed the hood. Drove home, didn't notice anything unusual til I was parking, I heard a sound like construction work going on. I turned off my car and realized my radiator fan was running loudly. Opened the hood and notice the hose was broken off the reservoir tank and the tank was empty and coolant was everywhere. Decided to just get a new tank off ebay rather than trying to fix it with glue. Bummed but the price of a new tank at least is not too bad.

 

Any advice on this please? I bought a new tank just now online. I will need to add new coolant. Should I flush the radiator? The temp gauge on the car shows it didn't overheat. I hope it will be fine when I replace the tank. I had only driven it about 10 minutes before I realized hose was broken off as I was parking it, I heard the fans on. It's winter too so at least it's not hot out. Anything else I should check?

 

It gave me a p1111 which is intake air temp, so I tried to clear it, but now it gives me a pending P1000, engine drive cycle test, which means it has to start-up and cycle through til it reaches normal operating temperature and make sure everything's ok before the check engine light goes away, but I can't do that til I get the new coolant tank obviously.

After letting it cool a few hours, it started up fine, so I'm pretty sure once I replace the coolant tank it will be alright.

 

04xtype04, P1111 code for our car means all is good and that there are no issues. So, deleting that code forces the P1000 code meaning it now needs to go out and re-check everything.

As for the tank, replacing it is pretty straight forward. The big thing to keep in mind is when you are installing the pinch clamps, you need to put the ears (what you grip on to) down. Do not have them pointing up or you are going to do the same thing again with the new tank.

As for refilling the system, pour in some coolant to fill the tank up and you should be good. May want to check it after 2-3 cooldowns just to make sure that you still have adequate level as there might be a small bubble inside the engine right now. But, running the car a little bit will force that bubble out.

 

Alright thanks. Do you know much coolant the car requires? I will make sure to point the clips down. I'm thinking they were up which could've most likely caused the problem. It had been fine and then all of a sudden it was broken, so I'm guessing somehow it snapped when I popped the hood when I was at the carparts store, ironically, just before this all happened. Well anyways, a new tank is on its way, so it will be a couple days. Thought about trying to repair the old tank with a nipple and some gasket sealant like another member did, but I need this repair to work and it's an important enough part of the engine, I honestly don't want it leaking and running out of coolant down the line. The new tank wasn't super expensive but it's just a hassle being without a car for the time being while I wait for it.

 

04xtype04, if the system is completely drained, then you are looking at about 2 gallons (8 liters). But, if you only need to fill the expansion tank, then you are looking at 1-2 liters/quarts (closer to 2).

 

Ok thanks Thermo. I will get a couple gallons of the premixed stuff then just to be certain. It sucks not having a car. They mailed the tank today so hopefully it will get here soon.

 

Maybe I should have tried fixing it with a brass fitting but I just didn't want to deal with it. I was so mad it broke in the evening and I needed transportation early the next day. I just went online and bought a replacement tank since they were relatively cheap. Still kind of bummed because I was just about to change the oil but I'm glad I was at least able to find the part I needed. Wasn't sure if the tank was a part you could buy new or if I was going to have to try to find a used one.

 

I got on Amazon and ordered on for about $50.00 about 6 months ago. My tank split open on the bottom.