Went to start 03 X-type this morning. Everything normal -started right up. Let it idle a minute as I had to run back into the house to get something. Then when I took off, that little yellow light came on and the message center said "cruise not available." It was running fine and everything seemed to be working. About 2 or 3 miles down the road the light went off and the message went away. It hasn't come back on. Is this an indication of some problem I am about to have? Is there something I need to check?

 

The usual culprit here is the ventilation hose that you can see on the top of the engine just to the right of centre, running parallel to the length of the car, ending at the manifold (harder to describe than to see but it is clearly shown in the photo attached). The original smooth hoses often developed splits on the underside and the result seen in the cabin was the "cruise not available" light. In your case, when the engine heats the rubber expands and the split is no longer significant - but it will get worse.
If you do not have the smooth hose then this may not apply because Jaguar has a new, ribbed hose which is much stronger. It will take you about 3 minutes to replace if you are slow. Cost - about $15. Part number: C2S40863

 

Thanks Gregory. My hose seems to be in 3 sections, with a smooth portion in the middle. Where it joins the other sections it appears there should've been some sort of clamps, as it doesn't seem like an airtight connection. Maybe something juryrigged. I think I will order that part. Thanks for your reply and the picture.

Tim

 

My culprit was a dirty MAF, used a whole can of cleaner on it(taken off the car)and it cleared and never came back. Been near a year now.

 

foxbottom: While you await the new PCV breather hose, you can improve the seal of the existing hose with two jubilee / band clamps. It's temporary until the new PCV hose arrives, but in the interim would reduce vacuum leakage from the old hose.


I was surprised and disappointed at the loose connection between the factory original, smooth PCV hose and the intake manifold. So I used a band clamp to snug it tight. That was before learning from this forum about the replacement, ribbed PCV hose, which comes with two band clamps.

 

I got the PVC hose, put it on several days ago and so far the light/ message has not come back on. Thanks guys!

 

Well I thought that hose fixed it, but today it was real cold (below 30 Deg.) Went to start it -fired right up, but ran really rough and had to rev it a minute or so to keep from stalling. Let it run a few minutes while I scraped ice. When I got back in "no cruise" message was back and cel was on. Still running sort of rough, but smoothed out as I drove away, and "no cruise" light went off in less thn a minute. CEL stayed on. After warmed up car ran fine. Now that temp is warmed up, it starts and runs fine. Apparently she doesn't like cold. Checked cel codes with my ELM 327. Showing 0174, 1316 and misfires on all cylinders except #4. I'm guessing -still a vacuum leak somewhere. I never did those IMT O rings, nor did I clean the MAF sensor yet. That brake booster/ valve thingy looks new and the intake manifold gaskets were replaced by previous owner about 30K miles ago. (car now has 113K mi.) I also think I'll put in a new PCV. Anything else you guys can think of???

 

fox: Recent repairs are the PCV hose, brake check valve & intake manifold gaskets.

Next up: IMT O-rings, PCV valve, and clean the MAF sensor.

One more item: Inspect the ~3" black, accordion air hose between the MAF sensor and throttle body. If it splits on the bottom from age & engine heat, air leaks in, bypassing the MAF, resulting in a lean condition.

 

If the plugs have not been changed, it's time to do that now. At any rate, check the front plugs for oil in the plug wells. If you end up removing the intake manifold, that's a good time change the IMT o-rings.

Here's a similar problwm thread that we have not heard back on. https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...r-cels-151874/

 

Service records show plugs were changed at 106K (7000 miles ago) No mention of changing manifold gaskets again (hopefully they did) I'll check for oil fouling on the front ones though. I've ordered the IMT O rings. I'm going to see if I can find a PCV locally and clean the MAF today. I appreciate your input. I'll keep you posted.

 

This may sound funny but i had the same problem.
Turned out to be a weak battery.
Our cats are very sensitive to low voltage I would recommend getting the battery load tested at the local parts store and replace if its "weak"

also fixed the problem of my "s" button not working

The big clue here is the Cold weather

 

You mean the "sport" button for the transmission? Mine never has seemed to do anything. I'll have to check the battery. My wi fi scanner shows it's putting out over 14 volts with car running -but I should still maybe have it "load tested." I cleaned the MAF sensor and the PCV today (couldn't find a new PCV locally -so ordered one) Also am replacing the air filter -was pretty dirty, and the fuel filter. I checked carefully for other vacuum leaks & couldn't find any. Plus I've ordered the IMT O rings. After I cleared all those codes from yesterday, they haven't come back -but they still may

 

OK guys -problem is still there. Runs really rough and will barely idle, on cold startup, when temps are around 30 degrees or colder. Is fine after engine warms up, and is fine on cold starts if outside temp is at 40 or above. "Cruise not available" is no longer coming back, but "low outside temperature" message stays on even after engine warms up.
Here's all I've done: new PCV breather hose, cleaned MAF, new brake booster lines & valve, recent intake manifold gaskets & plugs, checked accordion hose @ throttle body, checked for oil fouling on front sparkplugs, new PCV, new air filter and now (finally) new IMT O rings. The only suggestion I haven't followed through on is the battery, cause it seems so strong. I really don't know how old it is though. Could that really cause this? Could it be something besides a vacuum leak?

 

Fox: Any error codes? You've already addressed the typical issues. One that's not listed, but you may have done: cleaned inside the throttle body. A dirt film around the butterfly valve can cause a rough idle. Use throttle body cleaner, not carb cleaner or brake cleaner, to avoid removing a coating inside the throttle body that's there to slow dirt build-up.

Have you tried a smoke test for vacuum leaks? Google "Scotty Kilmer Smoke Test" for a DIY approach, or most garages can do it for you. Best to try it when the engine and ambient air is cold, since the vacuum leak seams to close when the engine warms up or the weather is warm (assume a vacuum leak is the root cause.)

The "Low Outside Temp" message has nothing to do with the engine. It's simply a outside temperature report. Press the odometer reset button, iirc, to clear the message.

 

codes are 0174, 1316 & random misfires on all cylinders. After I clear the codes, they don't come back until I try & start it when it's cold (around 30 deg.) I did sort of a half-assed clean of the throttle body. Just shot some TB cleaner back in there when I had the MAF sensor out. It didn't look too bad, but I think today I'll tear back into it and do a more thorough cleaning. I'll check into that smoke test. Wasn't there something about spraying carb cleaner to find vacuum leaks. Last time I smoked a cigar -it made me sicker than a dog.

 

Here's an 'Eric the Car Guy' video on checking for vacuum leaks with carb cleaner. After finding & fixing the leak, he suggests resetting the ECU. To do this, disconnect the positive cable from the battery and hold it against the negative battery post for a few seconds. Then drive as you normally would while the ECU relearns how to optimize fuel trim, timing, & throttle without the leak.

If you don't detect the idle change by listening, consider getting an ELM327 code reader and using an iPhone or Android to monitor changes in the fuel trim while you spray carb cleaner around possible vacuum leaks.

 

The battery can cause very odd issues, but it is an easy free test most battery places can do to see if it may be the cause.
My last battery always seemed fine, started and ran everytime, but leave the door open for a few minutes without the car running and it would not start the car. It had one bad cell in it and got a warranty replacement.

Maybe give all the manifold bolts a lil tighten

 

Thanks guys I will look into this stuff tomorrow. Today was just too cold -tomorrow is supposed to warm up. I do have an ELM 327. That's how I've been checking the codes. I've not yet gotten into the fuel trim stuff though. I'll have to look into that. And I think I will take it down to Advance Auto Parts & have them test out the battery. I'll get back to you -and, again I sure appreciate your input!

Thanks, Tim

 

Well the temp warmed up and the Jag was running fine, so I kind of forgot about it for a while. But today was cold again and the rough running at cold start and even the "cruise not available" light came back on, along with all the misfire codes. I tried the carb cleaner trick to locate vacuum leaks. Lo and behold, it worked -theres a bad one where one of the lines from the brake booster goes into the manifold -right behind the throttle body. Upon close examination, I realize the previous owner, when he replaced those brake booster lines, must've broken the little connectors where they go into the manifold. The lines have just been stuck back in with black gasket sealant. One seemed to be holding but the one on the front had broken the seal and was leaking bad. I took it out cleaned it up and redid the gasket sealant. Now I'm letting that cure. But is there a way you can buy those funky little connectors somewhere. I've not seen them available. I read somewhere on here that they are easy to break and hard to find.

 

fox: I'm not aware of the connector being sold separately, but it doesn't hurt to ask an auto parts store.

Alternately, you can buy the entire hose for ~$29 on eBay. This post talks about what part to buy and how to replace it (without breaking the connector this time ) : https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...m-hose-154112/