04 3.0 x-type: This is a problem of no heat at floor and defroster on all the time (cannot switch to face). I have read all, I think, posts for problems with the heater box and controls. It seems that there are no easy solutions to this problem. It is apparent that the shaft controlling the defrost/face vent damper is broken. The actuator end has not fallen inside.

This is a last desperate attempt to replacing the damper without removing the heat box or completely disassembling it. Short of that what are any recommendations for proceeding with the task?

TIA
Stephen

 

HVAC issues can be a pain, but I don't think you'll need to take apart the dash just yet. Site sponsor SNG Barratt offers a very useful printed parts catalog; if you don't have one send them an email request. From the diagram on p. 100 of it I'm seeing three stepper motors (C2S52007) and one inlet door actuator (C2S34337). I haven't had to dive in to my system but it looks like access is gained by removing the glove box and lower trim panel on passenger side. Here's a link that may help with component location:
https://www.google.com/webhp?sourcei...oor%20actuator
I don't find any YouTube videos specific to X-Type, but here's a good one Ford-related:

 

'swingwing' thanks for the response, on Christmas no less.
I have been pursuing the problem for a while and have found that all actuator motors are functioning and are not slipping. It is apparent that #3 defrost/vent shaft is broken, but still in place. The questions are: is access to the damper (door, flap) possible without removing the whole air handler unit and are new parts available for the repair?

I did see a YouTube video,
for removing the finish face vent grilles, etc from the dash that might make access possible. Anyone know if that is possible?

Stephen

 

Being new to Jaguar and not having done behind-the-dash work (yet) I'm no help on this question. I saw that video too and it's useful. Note that it's a RHD car and removing that assembly might give some access to the HVAC bits. On a LHD car though I don't know if you'd gain anything. Have you removed the glove box to see what you can reach there?

 

Stephen I have this same problem and mine always blows defrost - always. I think I have same issue as you. The actuator that should select between defrost and face vents is functioning. I have tested its operation when not connected to the airbox and shaft end. My shaft end with the hexagonal indention can spin 360 degrees so I know it's no longer connected to the flap inside. I have to be careful when turning it not to push it inside the airbox where I have no doubt it would fall into the box to the bottom. I would settle for being to move the flap inside the airbox and even wedge it in a compromise so that it could divert some portion of air to other areas besides defrost vents. Please share any of your experiences here. I have to think this has happened to others before. Taking the entire dash out and replacing entire airbox is just a huge task that I don't have time to tackle.

If someone with knowledge of the interior workings of the airbox and this specific door/flap that #3 actuator controls will comment then perhaps Stephen and I can team up on this problem. I would definitely be willing to do a how to post if someone gave me inspiration on how to access and move that door flap that is permanent to the defrost path

 

swingwing
Removing dash; it seems to me that a left-hand drive would eliminate the necessity of removing the steering wheel reducing some labor!?
RobinGa
Saw your earlier thread/posts which ended in silence, saddening me! I have not done everything you have, but came to the same conclusion based on your labor and my analysis of the problem. I looked on eBay and saw an HVAC box for sale and tried to psych out the layout and possibility of access to the broken part. Alas, no easy solution is obvious.
On my side, I am being pushed by my wife to change out the windshield which is badly fogged, but not cracked/crazed. Now, no windshield would give very easy access to the top of the box, BUT to what avail if the structure of the auto/dashboard blocked access to the critical area of the box?
I am going to call SNG Barratt tomorrow to see if they have any intelligence on the issue. I will report back.

 

I'd be very reluctant to pull the dash on any of my cars; huge job. I also wouldn't buy another HVAC box as that paints me into a corner of having to pull the dash, plus having to evacuate the AC refrigerant for changeover. No thanks. I think you're better off trying to find a way to fix your car as she sits. I see you're on Long Island; have you thought about contacting a couple of indy shops that know Jags for suggestions and/or repair estimates? It might be worth an hour of their shop time for a diagnosis that may lead you to a solution other than having to pull the dash.

 

It seems to me that logically the flap that was attached to the shaft that is now broken would rotate with the shaft and seal up one duct leaving the other duct open for airflow when the command from the actuator (the button for vent or defrost on controls) called for it to move. So right now the flap is totally blocking the duct to vents and diverting all airflow to defrost duct. I have though about finding something flexible yet rigid enough to snake into either the defrost vents or panel vents and try to push open the flap. I still don't know what that would be. Ideally I would want to allow air to flow to both ducts. I know that flap will not respond to the controls anymore and I may need defrost at some point to clear a foggy windshield so want a mixture if possible.

Does that make sense as a strategy to free up the flap?

 

Rob
I am/was an architect and understand things via drawings. It would be good/essential in our case to somehow get some kind of documentation of the culprit. God only knows where that would be. I just got up (despite the hour) and will see what I can find out.
Stephen

 

Here is a diagram of the airhandler box albeit a right hand Drive unit. Still shows the box however and our issue is with the flap controlled by actuator #3

 

I m not sure that is only for RHD cars and I think if there was a difference it doesn't mean a whole lot for our problem. The unit is showed in isolation and gives no clue about access to the part that has to be changed/fixed or how, exactly to disengage it from its snug location. One can see both horizontal and vertical 'seams' that would allow disassembly but not before taking it out of the car.

I did further search about solving the problem and found no solution. I also talked to the local garage that tends to Jerry Seinfeld's autos here on the east end of Long Island. With my short description they said 8 hours for removing and reinstalling the unit @$115/hour + tax. They said parts are always available (but at what cost?). And down time? This is our only vehicle. (His advice now with the complexity of modern cars, is to 3 year lease!)

 

Maybe someone else can verify but methinks it's the same airbox for RHD or LHD. For LHD cars I really think you can get to these actuators through the glove box once it's removed. Anybody try it? If there's a broken shaft internal to the box then it's a different story.

 

I have an idea. Remove the center vent panel (see the YouTube video) and see if you can go through the center face vent ducting to manually reposition the blend door. You may be able to split the air flow. You might even be able to see what's causing the problem, and if really lucky come up with a fix. Would be worth a try IMO. And I have to ask one more time: Are you sure that this problem is not caused by a faulty actuator?

 

Yes you can absolutely access the actuators on our LHD cars through the opening after you take out glovebox. The difference here being the fresh air inlet is on right side of this airbox as opposed to this drawing, but the actuators shown are in same place and easily accessible. They are accessible but I invested in a set of torx wrenchs that are bent 90 degrees like traditional Allen wrenches. Those make removal of actuators much easier in tight quarter in there

Thermo once described a way to access the bottom of the airbox by removing some carpet trim. Then one would cut an access hole in the side of plastic airbox with a dremel or similar tool and try and reposition it that way. After you would seal back up your hole you cut. That sounds doabke but without knowing what's behind the outer plastic shell of the airbox I would be afraid of making any cuts.

 

Without having some kind of real documentation of the internal structure I would never cut into the body. The defrost/face damper is inoperable due to breakage of the shaft. The exact location and means of possible access leading to possible repair are terra incognito.

My immediate, temporary solution would be to block the defrost outlets. I tried fashioning some rubber sheeting to cover up the defrost grilles on the dash. But the sheeting was too light and it blew off. I did sense an increase of heat coming out the floor outlets at low blower speeds (feet icon on display). Something like lead impregnated vinyl (used for sound proofing or xray shielding) might work - or a long fabric tube filled with beans or whatever. On occasions that defrost is needed just pull those out of the way. Not elegant but ad hoc.

 

Happy New Year!
If anyone is here, I did take some epdm sheeting I had and cut an approximation of a shape that would cover the defrost vents on the dashboard. I had to fashion some weights to keep the sheeting in place. I did both left and right. Despite the weights I cannot put blower on high - blows the sheets off. But it works some. Hot air is directed downward to the feet. Unfortunately, a lot of hot air is pushed to the side window defrost vents - at least not in ones face.
S