That was my though process too. I ordered the oil from Blauparts and they were good, the oil was well packed for shipment.

 

what i would do is change your rear end oil 2 more times because your rear end oil is gooo and when its cold it take time to move around ,guarantee this fixes your problem

 

I had added rear end oil when I first got the car a year ago as it was low and am thinking about dropping it and pulling the cover off and checking it out because I'm replacing the driveshaft support bearing at the same time.. I would assume that it is "Goo" like the transfer case oil was. I don't know why the oil in my x-type is so tacky and thick at this mileage. I have a 2005 Dodge Durango (a year older) with same mileage (130,000 miles) that I towed a camper across the US twice and the oil looks much better and lost little viscosity in the x-fer and tranny, just slightly darker. Also, there is no sign of oil leaks on the Jaguar so where is it going? I'm thinking that these both get so hot that oil is evaporating through a breather possibly?

As of right now it is running very quiet and smooth but I want to make sure it stays that way. .I will change the transfer case oil again this weekend and check it in a week to see if it does indeed need to be changed a third time.

Thanks for the advice.

 

What you can do to drain more oil, is drill and tap a small hole between the fins, or just in front of them on the flat near where the case halves join. There in plenty of clearance behind the case there and I put in an 8mm bolt as a drain plug, and then epoxied a 1/4" diameter rare earth supermagnet onto the end of the bolt. That will allow for almost all the oil to drain, but you'll still either have to tip the car on it's side to fill the transfer case or make a check valve type arrangement in place of the plug on the side of the case.

I changed my rear diff oil and it was fine, not black like the transfer case oil gets. I think a big difference is the transfer case gets lot of heat from the engine and exhaust, plus there isn't that much oil to absorb the heat. The diff holds quite a bit more oil.

 

use redline or royal purple ,thats what i did fixed

 

Not a bad idea. That way I could get more of any sediment out of the base of the housing.

The rear Differential from what I "recall" over a year ago is I stuck my little finger in the fill hole and it was kind of gunky what I could reach. I just picked up a suction pump and maybe I'll just remove a pint of diff fluid and see what it looks like first and then make a decision then. I blew two of those in the past on a 67 Dodge Dart and a 71 Chevy Impala.

 

In the Differential or the Transfer Case?

 

Diff and transfer case oil are the same, 75W-140 synthetic gear oil. Needs to meet Ford spec M2C 192A.

I prefer to stick to major oil company products, simply for the reason that on the small saloons forum ( Mark 2, S Type etc) is a tribologist - basically an oil and lubrication engineer/chemist. His job was to design oils to meet various specifications, such as API, SAE etc. His opinion after testing many of what I'll call second tier manufacturer's products - and I group companies like Royal Purple and Amsoil etc in that group - is that their products simply don't measure up to those of the major oil companies. The reason is that they are blenders and packagers of oils, not manufacturers. What they do is buy additives from third party vendors and mix them into base stock oil and bottle it. They don't have the research budgets of companies like Shell or Mobil, and they don't have the laboratory facilities themselves to invent better additives. Thus they are always a generation behind the majors, as the majors protect their inventions with patents, so the third party additive vendors are always 20 years (the life of a patent) behind the majors.

I've worked in the other end of the oil industry, production and completion, as opposed to refining the produced oil and there is a marked difference in quality and effectiveness in chemicals used in fracing between the companies that innovate and create the new chemicals and those that market and blend generic chemicals.

 

Interesting info...makes sense. I used Valvoline Synthetic on the Transfer case as it did meet Ford spec M2C 192A. I'll use that for the differential as well.

What brand of engine oil do you prefer based on your knowledge?

 

I have used the Valvoline as well. I typically use either Castrol or Mobil 1 full synthetic. Depends on the season, I use the Mobil 1 0W-40 in the summer, and Castrol 0W-30 in the winter. Often depends on what is on sale at the time. I used to use Shell Rotella T6 when it was dual rated for gasoline and diesel engines, but recently they changed the formula and it was rated for diesel engines only.