Failsafe mode
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Joined: May 2008
Posts: 14,803
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From: Great Mills, MD
HELP, when it comes to the throttle body motor, the 9V battery just doesn't have the umpf to move the throttle body motor. I will liken it to using a Honda Civic to move a loaded semi trailer. You could in theory put a trailer hitch on the roof and back the car under the trailer and drive the semi trailer down the road. But the car just isn't designed to do that. Same thing here, To make the motor move, you need a combination of enough voltage, but also enough current. A 9V battery is not meant to output lots of current.
If you want to test the motor on the throttle body, Simply get 2 lengths of wire (18 guage) and strip the ends. You can attach the end of each wire to the battery of the car and then touch the other ends to the 2 pins for the throttle body. You connect the wires one way, the throttle body is going ot make a click and you may see the throttle body move to really shut itself. You connect the wires the other way, the throttle body should move to pull open. This will atleast tell you if the motor is functioning. You could then get away wtih just buying a TPS sensor. The issue here is there are lots of them out there that people say work on the car, but DON'T. You will find lots of horror stories here of people having something very similiar to what you are going through, proved the TPS is failed (which is seems you have done based on the readings that you are posting here) and when they install the new TPS, their car goes crazy. This is where matching every number on the TPS is going to be key and minimize your chances of getting a bad part. This is why I recommend going to a wrecking yard and pulling one off of a wrecked car. You know that one worked at one time. That would also save you a fair amount of money. The big problem being, most wrecking yards are going to want you to buy the entire throttle body, not just the TPS sensor. The only other trick is to find a shop that is willling to special order in a TPS and then be willing to accept it for return if it doesn't work. But, most shops when it comes to electrical parts are a "once you bought it, it is yours unless you can prove the item is defective from the manufacturer". that is a tough bar to meet in some cases. This is where getting the TPS through the dealership is going to be a viable option if you are lookign to minimize costs as they will ensure you get a viable TPS. Granted, then your only argument with them will be if that doesn't get your car on the road, will they take it back since they did not diagnose the car. So, you may have to pay to have them diagnose the car. But, that may be some cheap money spent (normally about $125) to be able to say "yes, this is the fix".
If you want to test the motor on the throttle body, Simply get 2 lengths of wire (18 guage) and strip the ends. You can attach the end of each wire to the battery of the car and then touch the other ends to the 2 pins for the throttle body. You connect the wires one way, the throttle body is going ot make a click and you may see the throttle body move to really shut itself. You connect the wires the other way, the throttle body should move to pull open. This will atleast tell you if the motor is functioning. You could then get away wtih just buying a TPS sensor. The issue here is there are lots of them out there that people say work on the car, but DON'T. You will find lots of horror stories here of people having something very similiar to what you are going through, proved the TPS is failed (which is seems you have done based on the readings that you are posting here) and when they install the new TPS, their car goes crazy. This is where matching every number on the TPS is going to be key and minimize your chances of getting a bad part. This is why I recommend going to a wrecking yard and pulling one off of a wrecked car. You know that one worked at one time. That would also save you a fair amount of money. The big problem being, most wrecking yards are going to want you to buy the entire throttle body, not just the TPS sensor. The only other trick is to find a shop that is willling to special order in a TPS and then be willing to accept it for return if it doesn't work. But, most shops when it comes to electrical parts are a "once you bought it, it is yours unless you can prove the item is defective from the manufacturer". that is a tough bar to meet in some cases. This is where getting the TPS through the dealership is going to be a viable option if you are lookign to minimize costs as they will ensure you get a viable TPS. Granted, then your only argument with them will be if that doesn't get your car on the road, will they take it back since they did not diagnose the car. So, you may have to pay to have them diagnose the car. But, that may be some cheap money spent (normally about $125) to be able to say "yes, this is the fix".
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Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2023
Posts: 270
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From: vancouver
HELP, when it comes to the throttle body motor, the 9V battery just doesn't have the umpf to move the throttle body motor. I will liken it to using a Honda Civic to move a loaded semi trailer. You could in theory put a trailer hitch on the roof and back the car under the trailer and drive the semi trailer down the road. But the car just isn't designed to do that. Same thing here, To make the motor move, you need a combination of enough voltage, but also enough current. A 9V battery is not meant to output lots of current.
If you want to test the motor on the throttle body, Simply get 2 lengths of wire (18 guage) and strip the ends. You can attach the end of each wire to the battery of the car and then touch the other ends to the 2 pins for the throttle body. You connect the wires one way, the throttle body is going ot make a click and you may see the throttle body move to really shut itself. You connect the wires the other way, the throttle body should move to pull open. This will atleast tell you if the motor is functioning. You could then get away wtih just buying a TPS sensor. The issue here is there are lots of them out there that people say work on the car, but DON'T. You will find lots of horror stories here of people having something very similiar to what you are going through, proved the TPS is failed (which is seems you have done based on the readings that you are posting here) and when they install the new TPS, their car goes crazy. This is where matching every number on the TPS is going to be key and minimize your chances of getting a bad part. This is why I recommend going to a wrecking yard and pulling one off of a wrecked car. You know that one worked at one time. That would also save you a fair amount of money. The big problem being, most wrecking yards are going to want you to buy the entire throttle body, not just the TPS sensor. The only other trick is to find a shop that is willling to special order in a TPS and then be willing to accept it for return if it doesn't work. But, most shops when it comes to electrical parts are a "once you bought it, it is yours unless you can prove the item is defective from the manufacturer". that is a tough bar to meet in some cases. This is where getting the TPS through the dealership is going to be a viable option if you are lookign to minimize costs as they will ensure you get a viable TPS. Granted, then your only argument with them will be if that doesn't get your car on the road, will they take it back since they did not diagnose the car. So, you may have to pay to have them diagnose the car. But, that may be some cheap money spent (normally about $125) to be able to say "yes, this is the fix".
If you want to test the motor on the throttle body, Simply get 2 lengths of wire (18 guage) and strip the ends. You can attach the end of each wire to the battery of the car and then touch the other ends to the 2 pins for the throttle body. You connect the wires one way, the throttle body is going ot make a click and you may see the throttle body move to really shut itself. You connect the wires the other way, the throttle body should move to pull open. This will atleast tell you if the motor is functioning. You could then get away wtih just buying a TPS sensor. The issue here is there are lots of them out there that people say work on the car, but DON'T. You will find lots of horror stories here of people having something very similiar to what you are going through, proved the TPS is failed (which is seems you have done based on the readings that you are posting here) and when they install the new TPS, their car goes crazy. This is where matching every number on the TPS is going to be key and minimize your chances of getting a bad part. This is why I recommend going to a wrecking yard and pulling one off of a wrecked car. You know that one worked at one time. That would also save you a fair amount of money. The big problem being, most wrecking yards are going to want you to buy the entire throttle body, not just the TPS sensor. The only other trick is to find a shop that is willling to special order in a TPS and then be willing to accept it for return if it doesn't work. But, most shops when it comes to electrical parts are a "once you bought it, it is yours unless you can prove the item is defective from the manufacturer". that is a tough bar to meet in some cases. This is where getting the TPS through the dealership is going to be a viable option if you are lookign to minimize costs as they will ensure you get a viable TPS. Granted, then your only argument with them will be if that doesn't get your car on the road, will they take it back since they did not diagnose the car. So, you may have to pay to have them diagnose the car. But, that may be some cheap money spent (normally about $125) to be able to say "yes, this is the fix".
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Joined: May 2008
Posts: 14,803
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From: Great Mills, MD
HELP, yes, having the plug disconnected when you took the readings affects everything. What you are going to want to do is get yourself atleast 2 pins like what people use to sew with. What you are going to do is plug up everything like you were going to run the car. Now, with the engine off, you are going to lay the pin on the insulation of the wire with the point of the pin pointed at the plug to the TPS. You will then slide the pin along the wire to slide the pin under the seal there on the plug and push it in another 1/2 inch or so till you can feel the pin hit something solid (this should be the pin of the connector. Do that on the yellow or pink wire and on the black/green wire. Now, touch your multimeter to the pin. You should get a reading. If you don't, push on the pins a little bit to see if things change for you and you get the correct reading. Once you get a reading, you can then remove the pin to the yellow or pink wire and move it over to the other. Take the second reading.
Lets see what you have then.
Chris Coleman
Lets see what you have then.
Chris Coleman
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Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2023
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From: vancouver
@Thermo @h2o2steam the TB MOTOR IS GOOD. I got some wires stuck them to the car battery and the other end to the motor and it opened but now the battery died somehow. So now the question is could it be the tps sensor, the tps wire or the TB motor wire? Is there a way to find out what it could be? I will make a video tm or later on its raining right now and I am working in my driveway.
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Joined: Apr 2023
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From: vancouver
HELP, yes, having the plug disconnected when you took the readings affects everything. What you are going to want to do is get yourself atleast 2 pins like what people use to sew with. What you are going to do is plug up everything like you were going to run the car. Now, with the engine off, you are going to lay the pin on the insulation of the wire with the point of the pin pointed at the plug to the TPS. You will then slide the pin along the wire to slide the pin under the seal there on the plug and push it in another 1/2 inch or so till you can feel the pin hit something solid (this should be the pin of the connector. Do that on the yellow or pink wire and on the black/green wire. Now, touch your multimeter to the pin. You should get a reading. If you don't, push on the pins a little bit to see if things change for you and you get the correct reading. Once you get a reading, you can then remove the pin to the yellow or pink wire and move it over to the other. Take the second reading.
Lets see what you have then.
Chris Coleman
Lets see what you have then.
Chris Coleman
Thread Starter
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Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2023
Posts: 270
Likes: 2
From: vancouver
@Thermo @h2o2steam Alright so I did all the tests which are: TPS plug, TB motor, TB motor plug.
forgot to record the other vidoes
I will break down what happens in the videos
: this is the TB motor test, in the first few mintues when I give power to the motor it does nothing that is
beacuse the battery wasent fully charged so I hooked it up with the charger and then rest is in the video
For the TPS plug, what happend was that I had the my wires hooked up to the ground and the yellow wire of the plug and it showed me 1.7v, then I
moved it to the purple wire and it should me 0.13v and kept going up and down from there then after I check the connection bettwen the wires and the purple one was not connected
once I got it connected then i tested the DCV on it, it shows me 0.95 steady. So I got 1.7V on the yellow wire and then 0.95V on the purple wire ground being the same for both black/green wire.
For the TB motor plug I had my mutilmeter on 200 ohms and the plugs connected to the TB ( red wire up, green wire down) and i got 3.5 : the thing is the wire case broke off and fell in the engine bay so I have just had it plugged in naked wire like no cover on it and it was very losse I am planning on 3d printing a cover for it so it can click into like the way it should be doing.
Now i am not sure what the values should be for the plugs but I do know that the TB Motor is good. So now if the wrining values are good I have no idea what could be wrong with this. @Thermo @h2o2steam So what do you guys thinking?
forgot to record the other vidoes
I will break down what happens in the videos
beacuse the battery wasent fully charged so I hooked it up with the charger and then rest is in the video
For the TPS plug, what happend was that I had the my wires hooked up to the ground and the yellow wire of the plug and it showed me 1.7v, then I
moved it to the purple wire and it should me 0.13v and kept going up and down from there then after I check the connection bettwen the wires and the purple one was not connected
once I got it connected then i tested the DCV on it, it shows me 0.95 steady. So I got 1.7V on the yellow wire and then 0.95V on the purple wire ground being the same for both black/green wire.
For the TB motor plug I had my mutilmeter on 200 ohms and the plugs connected to the TB ( red wire up, green wire down) and i got 3.5 : the thing is the wire case broke off and fell in the engine bay so I have just had it plugged in naked wire like no cover on it and it was very losse I am planning on 3d printing a cover for it so it can click into like the way it should be doing.
Now i am not sure what the values should be for the plugs but I do know that the TB Motor is good. So now if the wrining values are good I have no idea what could be wrong with this. @Thermo @h2o2steam So what do you guys thinking?
Spoiler
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From: Great Mills, MD
HELP, from what I can see at the moment, your problem most likely is the connector that is broke. The final check that I think you need to do is to use the pins again and measure the yellow to black/green and the purple to black/green. The difference this time is you are going to be measuring these points and then using your finger, move the silver disc (circle) in the middle of the throttle body. This may take a second person to help you out. What you are looking for is a smooth rise in the voltage as you open the throttle body. If it is only you, then I would recommend a set of "alligator leads" (leads that have a clamp that you can open up and if you look at it from the side, it looks like an alligators mouth). This way, you can connect to the leads and not have to worry about holding them. If you see the voltage going up, then spike to 5 or 0 VDC then jump back, this is an indication that you have a bad spot in the TPS and it is sending erroneous information to the ECU and this is causing the ECU to say there is a problem. Do it a few times to make sure that if you think the TPS is bad, you can see the same problem in the same spot of the throttle body positioning. Odds are, if you are going to find a problem, it will be with the throttle body about a 1/4 of the way open (where the car sits most of the time driving).
If that checks out good, then this will pretty much confirm you have a connector issue and you will need to make your 3D printed connector or if you look in the history here, I want to say someone found the correct connector and listed the part number so you just have to buy the connector and transfer the wires.
If that checks out good, then this will pretty much confirm you have a connector issue and you will need to make your 3D printed connector or if you look in the history here, I want to say someone found the correct connector and listed the part number so you just have to buy the connector and transfer the wires.
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Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2023
Posts: 270
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From: vancouver
HELP, from what I can see at the moment, your problem most likely is the connector that is broke. The final check that I think you need to do is to use the pins again and measure the yellow to black/green and the purple to black/green. The difference this time is you are going to be measuring these points and then using your finger, move the silver disc (circle) in the middle of the throttle body. This may take a second person to help you out. What you are looking for is a smooth rise in the voltage as you open the throttle body. If it is only you, then I would recommend a set of "alligator leads" (leads that have a clamp that you can open up and if you look at it from the side, it looks like an alligators mouth). This way, you can connect to the leads and not have to worry about holding them. If you see the voltage going up, then spike to 5 or 0 VDC then jump back, this is an indication that you have a bad spot in the TPS and it is sending erroneous information to the ECU and this is causing the ECU to say there is a problem. Do it a few times to make sure that if you think the TPS is bad, you can see the same problem in the same spot of the throttle body positioning. Odds are, if you are going to find a problem, it will be with the throttle body about a 1/4 of the way open (where the car sits most of the time driving).
If that checks out good, then this will pretty much confirm you have a connector issue and you will need to make your 3D printed connector or if you look in the history here, I want to say someone found the correct connector and listed the part number so you just have to buy the connector and transfer the wires.
If that checks out good, then this will pretty much confirm you have a connector issue and you will need to make your 3D printed connector or if you look in the history here, I want to say someone found the correct connector and listed the part number so you just have to buy the connector and transfer the wires.
Wdym the transfer wires? I am planing on 3d printing the case foe the 2 wires so they can plug into the pins of the TB motor.
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From: vancouver
@Thermo @h2o2steam after all this work of figuring it out. The TB wires and motors are ruled out as they are not the problem. I plugged it all back in left the car running for 15mins codes are cleared shut it down and checked the codes all. The p1229 code has vanished its not shoing up any more it did but after erasing it and leaving the car on its gone. Now the code I am getting is a P0203 along with a p1000 which I always have been getting. It says that the p0203 is for the fuel injectors. So what sjoukd I do know I don't want to do play around with anything before getting your inputs on this.
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From: Christchurch
Sounds like either you have a bad plug or wiring to that #3 injector, or the injector is not actually firing.
First locate the injector harness plug on top of engine behind the main engine harness plug. I think it is a 9 pin plug.
Disconnect it and then you can use your multimeter on low ohms to test you have continuity from the common injector supply pin 6 to each of your injectors.
Injector #1 injector is pin 1
Injector #2 injector is pin 8
Injector #3 injector is pin 7 (this is the one P0203 is pointing to)
Injector #4 injector is pin 3
Injector #5 injector is pin 2
Injector #6 injector is pin 9
B+ common pin 6
Measure the resistance for all injectors individually back to pin 6 and make sure that they all read the same, if you have an open circuit injector, bad plug or damaged wire in the loom then your reading from pin 6 to pin 7 of the injector loom plug will be much higher or open circuit compared to the other 5 injector pins. If that is the case then you need to undo the plug at injector 3 and measure across the injector contact to see if the injector is high resistance/open circuit.
If the injector is good, the measure the injector's two wires for continuity back to loom plug pins 6 & 7 to see if one of the two wires is damaged inside the injector loom.
If your resistance reading for injector 3 is low in comparison to it the other 5 injectors, then disconnect the injector to see if the low resistance is the injector or a possible short in the injector wiring harness.
If all these tests pass, then either the injector is not being driven by the ECM, or it is struggling to pass fuel through it due to a clogged filter or blocked nozzle.
You can always swap the injector, moving it over to another cylinder to see if the error code changes to reflect the new cylinder number to help with your diagnosis.
First locate the injector harness plug on top of engine behind the main engine harness plug. I think it is a 9 pin plug.
Disconnect it and then you can use your multimeter on low ohms to test you have continuity from the common injector supply pin 6 to each of your injectors.
Injector #1 injector is pin 1
Injector #2 injector is pin 8
Injector #3 injector is pin 7 (this is the one P0203 is pointing to)
Injector #4 injector is pin 3
Injector #5 injector is pin 2
Injector #6 injector is pin 9
B+ common pin 6
Measure the resistance for all injectors individually back to pin 6 and make sure that they all read the same, if you have an open circuit injector, bad plug or damaged wire in the loom then your reading from pin 6 to pin 7 of the injector loom plug will be much higher or open circuit compared to the other 5 injector pins. If that is the case then you need to undo the plug at injector 3 and measure across the injector contact to see if the injector is high resistance/open circuit.
If the injector is good, the measure the injector's two wires for continuity back to loom plug pins 6 & 7 to see if one of the two wires is damaged inside the injector loom.
If your resistance reading for injector 3 is low in comparison to it the other 5 injectors, then disconnect the injector to see if the low resistance is the injector or a possible short in the injector wiring harness.
If all these tests pass, then either the injector is not being driven by the ECM, or it is struggling to pass fuel through it due to a clogged filter or blocked nozzle.
You can always swap the injector, moving it over to another cylinder to see if the error code changes to reflect the new cylinder number to help with your diagnosis.
Thread Starter
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Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2023
Posts: 270
Likes: 2
From: vancouver
Sounds like either you have a bad plug or wiring to that #3 injector, or the injector is not actually firing.
First locate the injector harness plug on top of engine behind the main engine harness plug. I think it is a 9 pin plug.
Disconnect it and then you can use your multimeter on low ohms to test you have continuity from the common injector supply pin 6 to each of your injectors.
Injector #1 injector is pin 1
Injector #2 injector is pin 8
Injector #3 injector is pin 7 (this is the one P0203 is pointing to)
Injector #4 injector is pin 3
Injector #5 injector is pin 2
Injector #6 injector is pin 9
B+ common pin 6
Measure the resistance for all injectors individually back to pin 6 and make sure that they all read the same, if you have an open circuit injector, bad plug or damaged wire in the loom then your reading from pin 6 to pin 7 of the injector loom plug will be much higher or open circuit compared to the other 5 injector pins. If that is the case then you need to undo the plug at injector 3 and measure across the injector contact to see if the injector is high resistance/open circuit.
If the injector is good, the measure the injector's two wires for continuity back to loom plug pins 6 & 7 to see if one of the two wires is damaged inside the injector loom.
If your resistance reading for injector 3 is low in comparison to it the other 5 injectors, then disconnect the injector to see if the low resistance is the injector or a possible short in the injector wiring harness.
If all these tests pass, then either the injector is not being driven by the ECM, or it is struggling to pass fuel through it due to a clogged filter or blocked nozzle.
You can always swap the injector, moving it over to another cylinder to see if the error code changes to reflect the new cylinder number to help with your diagnosis.
First locate the injector harness plug on top of engine behind the main engine harness plug. I think it is a 9 pin plug.
Disconnect it and then you can use your multimeter on low ohms to test you have continuity from the common injector supply pin 6 to each of your injectors.
Injector #1 injector is pin 1
Injector #2 injector is pin 8
Injector #3 injector is pin 7 (this is the one P0203 is pointing to)
Injector #4 injector is pin 3
Injector #5 injector is pin 2
Injector #6 injector is pin 9
B+ common pin 6
Measure the resistance for all injectors individually back to pin 6 and make sure that they all read the same, if you have an open circuit injector, bad plug or damaged wire in the loom then your reading from pin 6 to pin 7 of the injector loom plug will be much higher or open circuit compared to the other 5 injector pins. If that is the case then you need to undo the plug at injector 3 and measure across the injector contact to see if the injector is high resistance/open circuit.
If the injector is good, the measure the injector's two wires for continuity back to loom plug pins 6 & 7 to see if one of the two wires is damaged inside the injector loom.
If your resistance reading for injector 3 is low in comparison to it the other 5 injectors, then disconnect the injector to see if the low resistance is the injector or a possible short in the injector wiring harness.
If all these tests pass, then either the injector is not being driven by the ECM, or it is struggling to pass fuel through it due to a clogged filter or blocked nozzle.
You can always swap the injector, moving it over to another cylinder to see if the error code changes to reflect the new cylinder number to help with your diagnosis.
@Thermo @h2o2steam the code is back the p1229. I am nit sure how I made it go away the first time but it's back now and the other p0203 code is gone. I did change the TB motor plug green on the top and red on the bottom. Could that have been the reason the code went away? Maby the code showed be staying like thee p1000 does.
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From: Great Mills, MD
P1000 is nothing you need to be weary of. P1000 is simply stating that all the engine checks the car does when the memory has been wiped have not been completed. SO, ignore that code. This leaves you with the random P1229/P0203 codes. This would indicate to me that you are having a connection issue and that you need to be looking at the associated plugs and making sure all the connections are clean, silvery in color, and are making good connection.
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Posts: 270
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From: vancouver
P1000 is nothing you need to be weary of. P1000 is simply stating that all the engine checks the car does when the memory has been wiped have not been completed. SO, ignore that code. This leaves you with the random P1229/P0203 codes. This would indicate to me that you are having a connection issue and that you need to be looking at the associated plugs and making sure all the connections are clean, silvery in color, and are making good connection.
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Senior Member
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From: vancouver
@Thermo @h2o2steam so the tb motor plug 2 pin one of them broke I fixed it but it still has no case on it but it does not touch each other so that's good. I started the car and kept getting the p1229 code. When I had the tb motor plug green ontop red on the bottom the car did Rev to my foot pedal position in away and also soon after there was alot of white smoke that was coming out of yhe exhaust. I turned the car off waited abit then changed the wires back red and then green no codes for the first few minutes turned the car off and started it again. Then the code p1229 kept showing I let yhe car run after turning it off again and it was running for abit like 5mins or so this time and both the codes showed up p1229 and p0203. Also there was no white smoke after i changed the wires.
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From: Christchurch
Sounds like having the green wire on top is the correct orientation to drive the TB motor so it follows the accelerator pedal movement.
Other way around will be physically driving TB closed when you are actually asking it to open.
White smoke could be fueling issue (over fueling is normally a darker smoke that smells very rich) or could be water getting into intake, or a cylinder if a head gasket is leaking.
Any bubbles emerging in the cooling system?
Does the smoke clear shortly after initial start up, and does it reappear on next start up?
Other way around will be physically driving TB closed when you are actually asking it to open.
White smoke could be fueling issue (over fueling is normally a darker smoke that smells very rich) or could be water getting into intake, or a cylinder if a head gasket is leaking.
Any bubbles emerging in the cooling system?
Does the smoke clear shortly after initial start up, and does it reappear on next start up?
Thread Starter
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Senior Member
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Posts: 270
Likes: 2
From: vancouver
Sounds like having the green wire on top is the correct orientation to drive the TB motor so it follows the accelerator pedal movement.
Other way around will be physically driving TB closed when you are actually asking it to open.
White smoke could be fueling issue (over fueling is normally a darker smoke that smells very rich) or could be water getting into intake, or a cylinder if a head gasket is leaking.
Any bubbles emerging in the cooling system?
Does the smoke clear shortly after initial start up, and does it reappear on next start up?
Other way around will be physically driving TB closed when you are actually asking it to open.
White smoke could be fueling issue (over fueling is normally a darker smoke that smells very rich) or could be water getting into intake, or a cylinder if a head gasket is leaking.
Any bubbles emerging in the cooling system?
Does the smoke clear shortly after initial start up, and does it reappear on next start up?
Thread Starter
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Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2023
Posts: 270
Likes: 2
From: vancouver
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Posts: 6,325
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From: Christchurch
The white haze from the exhaust looks pretty harmless, a cold starting engine that is running a good fuel mix will generally produce visible steam particularly until the exhaust system starts to warm up.
I found some images online of the throttle body and I am going to correct my previous thought..... it appears the red wire is to the top of the plug, green wire to the lower connection.
My throttle body is cable driven (being a 2.1 engine not the 2.5 or 3.0), so I had no direct comparison to look at on my car.
The persistent "limp home mode" and only getting a P1229 error (no HO2 sensor errors, misfire errors, Temp errors, or transmission errors) it can only be one of a few things in the throttle management loop.
A/ The accelerator pedal is not sending good information to the ECM - but we should be able to rule that out as you would typically get different completely codes popping up reporting that.
B/ The throttle motor is not able to physically moving the butterfly when commanded to - You have directly powered the TB motor and it responds to voltage input.
C/ If you have cleared the codes and started the car without touching the accelerator, does it idle normally and not throw a new P1229 error.
Later in that test, if you were to then have someone else assist you and on your command slightly press the accelerator while you are watching the TB butterfly, does the butterfly initially respond to the accelerator being pressed before the P1229 code re-emerges?
D/ If the butterfly moves initially (momentarily), then the ECM appears capable of driving the TB motor, but likely is not getting good positional feedback from the TPS, forcing the ECM to invoke the limp home mode as it can't rationalize the TB physical movement.
If the P1229 code is not present and you have no engine failure light displayed, but the butterfly is not physically responding to accelerator, then it might be an ECM fault.
I found some images online of the throttle body and I am going to correct my previous thought..... it appears the red wire is to the top of the plug, green wire to the lower connection.
My throttle body is cable driven (being a 2.1 engine not the 2.5 or 3.0), so I had no direct comparison to look at on my car.
The persistent "limp home mode" and only getting a P1229 error (no HO2 sensor errors, misfire errors, Temp errors, or transmission errors) it can only be one of a few things in the throttle management loop.
A/ The accelerator pedal is not sending good information to the ECM - but we should be able to rule that out as you would typically get different completely codes popping up reporting that.
B/ The throttle motor is not able to physically moving the butterfly when commanded to - You have directly powered the TB motor and it responds to voltage input.
C/ If you have cleared the codes and started the car without touching the accelerator, does it idle normally and not throw a new P1229 error.
Later in that test, if you were to then have someone else assist you and on your command slightly press the accelerator while you are watching the TB butterfly, does the butterfly initially respond to the accelerator being pressed before the P1229 code re-emerges?
D/ If the butterfly moves initially (momentarily), then the ECM appears capable of driving the TB motor, but likely is not getting good positional feedback from the TPS, forcing the ECM to invoke the limp home mode as it can't rationalize the TB physical movement.
If the P1229 code is not present and you have no engine failure light displayed, but the butterfly is not physically responding to accelerator, then it might be an ECM fault.
Thread Starter
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Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2023
Posts: 270
Likes: 2
From: vancouver
The white haze from the exhaust looks pretty harmless, a cold starting engine that is running a good fuel mix will generally produce visible steam particularly until the exhaust system starts to warm up.
I found some images online of the throttle body and I am going to correct my previous thought..... it appears the red wire is to the top of the plug, green wire to the lower connection.
My throttle body is cable driven (being a 2.1 engine not the 2.5 or 3.0), so I had no direct comparison to look at on my car.
The persistent "limp home mode" and only getting a P1229 error (no HO2 sensor errors, misfire errors, Temp errors, or transmission errors) it can only be one of a few things in the throttle management loop.
A/ The accelerator pedal is not sending good information to the ECM - but we should be able to rule that out as you would typically get different completely codes popping up reporting that.
B/ The throttle motor is not able to physically moving the butterfly when commanded to - You have directly powered the TB motor and it responds to voltage input.
C/ If you have cleared the codes and started the car without touching the accelerator, does it idle normally and not throw a new P1229 error.
Later in that test, if you were to then have someone else assist you and on your command slightly press the accelerator while you are watching the TB butterfly, does the butterfly initially respond to the accelerator being pressed before the P1229 code re-emerges?
D/ If the butterfly moves initially (momentarily), then the ECM appears capable of driving the TB motor, but likely is not getting good positional feedback from the TPS, forcing the ECM to invoke the limp home mode as it can't rationalize the TB physical movement.
If the P1229 code is not present and you have no engine failure light displayed, but the butterfly is not physically responding to accelerator, then it might be an ECM fault.
I found some images online of the throttle body and I am going to correct my previous thought..... it appears the red wire is to the top of the plug, green wire to the lower connection.
My throttle body is cable driven (being a 2.1 engine not the 2.5 or 3.0), so I had no direct comparison to look at on my car.
The persistent "limp home mode" and only getting a P1229 error (no HO2 sensor errors, misfire errors, Temp errors, or transmission errors) it can only be one of a few things in the throttle management loop.
A/ The accelerator pedal is not sending good information to the ECM - but we should be able to rule that out as you would typically get different completely codes popping up reporting that.
B/ The throttle motor is not able to physically moving the butterfly when commanded to - You have directly powered the TB motor and it responds to voltage input.
C/ If you have cleared the codes and started the car without touching the accelerator, does it idle normally and not throw a new P1229 error.
Later in that test, if you were to then have someone else assist you and on your command slightly press the accelerator while you are watching the TB butterfly, does the butterfly initially respond to the accelerator being pressed before the P1229 code re-emerges?
D/ If the butterfly moves initially (momentarily), then the ECM appears capable of driving the TB motor, but likely is not getting good positional feedback from the TPS, forcing the ECM to invoke the limp home mode as it can't rationalize the TB physical movement.
If the P1229 code is not present and you have no engine failure light displayed, but the butterfly is not physically responding to accelerator, then it might be an ECM fault.
So what shoukd I do now?
Veteran Member
Joined: Feb 2021
Posts: 6,325
Likes: 2,223
From: Christchurch
Hi Help,
Just to clarify........ that last video you posted is straight after you cleared the codes, started the car without any accelerator pedal being activated, then pressed the accelerator to ascertain if the butterfly would show any signs of movement?
If that is the case, when you started the car did you get any check engine lights or messages emerge prior to you giving the accelerator a dab?
You also mentioned the car did not start normally after clearing the code, what is the starting effect you are seeing?
Thermo...what are you making of this.....I am struggling to put my finger on it?
Just to clarify........ that last video you posted is straight after you cleared the codes, started the car without any accelerator pedal being activated, then pressed the accelerator to ascertain if the butterfly would show any signs of movement?
If that is the case, when you started the car did you get any check engine lights or messages emerge prior to you giving the accelerator a dab?
You also mentioned the car did not start normally after clearing the code, what is the starting effect you are seeing?
Thermo...what are you making of this.....I am struggling to put my finger on it?