Help, the "smoke" that you saw is harmless. That is cold exhaust condensation. You probably do not notice it normally as on drier days, it barely comes out. On a high humidity day like when the video was, it will stick around longer. No worrries there.

As for the next step, I would say to give a try to see the throttle body go full open. So, turn the car to the ON position, then using your video recorder, fully depress the gas pedal and then let off. The next step is to do a quick depress hold for a second and then let go. The first check, ou should see the throttle body butterfly slowly open and then close with no jumps. The second check, you should see the butterfly snap open and then a second later, snap shut. I am not too worried about the closing, but the opening may have some issues. That would help to point to a bad throttle body.

 

I am not sure if the codes were cleared so i will give it a try again to see if it comes up again and for the starting effect I mean like it's the same as it's shaking and stuff doesn't start up normally.

 

how would depressing the gas pedal with the car on engine off move the TB butterfly? I will give it a try and post both the videos.

 

@Thermo @h2o2steam so, I was going to make the video and do the test you guys said but I had left the key in the car for too long and the battery died. So tm I have to give it a jump start really quickly and then I will make the video and post it.

 

Help, with the car on, the ECU is still going to attempt to control things normally. So, stepping on the gas pedal is going to cause the throttle body to open. It will not admit fuel to the cylinders as the time to admit the fuel is not being hit (motor is stationary). Kinda like in the throttle body, the idle air control valve is going to be wide open in an attempt to raise engine RPM. The ECU is smart, but it is also dumb at the same time too. It is all in the balance of being able to have the car protect itself in a failure, but at the same time, remain functional during a failure.

You want to prove this, here is a simple thing to do. Depress the gas pedal as far as it will go and start the car. Logic would say that as soon as you turn the key, the engine is going to fire and go to redline. Quite the opposite. The car will never start. Depressing the gas pedal all the way and then starting the car is a failsafe to clear the cylinders in the case of a fuel flooding situation. The motor will crank and let maximum air through the engine, but it will not fire the injectors to add more fuel.

 

Thermo, do you recall if the throttle butterfly will move at all when the ECM is in limp home mode?
Obviously the engine RPM can be increased by the ECM with just a moderate fuel increase, but as we all have experienced at some time or other the engine is severely derated in that mode.
Just wondering if there is still some physical throttle movement.

 

@Thermo @h2o2steam so I did the test Thermo just told me to try and the car know won't start back up battery is full but i am try to jump it later when i have a car. 🫠😭 Here is the video: To answer h2o2steam question i dont think it moves the butterfly since it's in limp mode because mine is not moving at all.

 

@Thermo @h2o2steam got the car started again the battery was dead i will post the videos i have made once my phone charges but what should I do now?

 

When you get a minute....can you quickly verify that fuse F19 (10A) and F36 (5A) in the power distribution fuse box are good, just to make sure neither has failed.
Also F26 (20A) in the Passenger Junction Fuse Box. Check you have 12 volts with both sides of fuse with ignition switch on position 2 or engine running.
These all feed into the ECM.

 

ok I take a look at those fuses, here is the video I made,

 

OK, I was trying to find something on the gas pedal floored trick and I am not finding anything on it. Probably not using the right words for the search. But, in my looking I decided to take a step back and look at this problem with a fresh eye because I think we are getting off track. Based on the error code of P1229, this is really pointing to only 2 things: 1) bad wiring between the ECM and the throttle body, and 2) bad ECM. The code is specific to the control of the throttle body, not so much the feedback. So, if you measure the resistance of the two wires that go from the throttle body motor to the ECM and you can get less than 5 ohms on both wires, then your ECM is your problem. If you do not get less than 5 ohms on one of the wires, then you have a bad wire and that needs to be repaired. What the repair manual is saying is to disconnect the connector at the throttle body and at the ECM. Measure the resistance of the two wires. It then is pretty clear about what needs to be done.

I will see if I can find a reference to my engine clearing procedure. I have a feeling that this fault is causing what we think should happen to not happen.

 

Ok, i will give that a look. Hiw is it I shoukd test the resistance? One led on the ecm wire and the other led on the same wire but on the side that connects to the TB?

 

@Thermo @h2o2steam So I was going to test drive my the car in my alley and when I started to put everything back together, I started it up and once I put it in drive. I tried giving it some acceleration, but the RPMS did like go up. It didn't move at all not even like a little bit. But when I put in neutral or like when it's in park, then it does perfectly fine doesn't run perfectly fine but like it revs when the pedal is pressed. Here are the videos I made. I didn't do the ecm test @Thermo said. What ever is happening right now might be the cause to the whole issue.

i didnt record it the first time but here are the codes that had came up after I turned the car off after are the other parts to the video

 

@Thermo @h2o2steam so I took out the lower manifold fold and while doing that there is oil on the main manifold and on the lower one. Also all the injectors are being fired by the looks of it except the 3rd one since there is no left over gas on the injector. I am going to be doing a injector test using 9v battery and see how many ohms I am getting but for now here are the pictures.








The seals look and feel brand new too...

 

Did you get a chance to check the three fuses mentioned before?

Did you also get a 12v reading on F26?
That would prove the ECM is enabling the supply for the throttle motor and that relay R7 is working.

 

just checked the f19 and f36 give me 0v but there in good shape and for the f26 on the driver's side there is no 20amps fuse its a 10amps and it also gives me 0. When I have my black led to the negative battery terminal then the fuse f19 and f36 are both around 10.9, 11V and for the f26 I get 8V

 

Sorry I meant F36 (20A) in the passenger junction fuse box inside the car.

I'm replying to you whilst at work (3pm Friday afternoon here).

 

There is no f36 with 20A, sorry my bad didn't know ur at work

 

It is in the passenger junction fuse box....listed as F36 in both the 2004 and 2005 schematics, so it should be there on yours.


No worries......I try to keep an eye on posts during any breaks at work as being in NZ we are in a totally different time zone from most of the other members on this site.

 

Okay, found it had my black led on the negative battery terminal and the red one on the fuse and it showed me 2v and I used the extra one and it shoes me 1v

This is the one that was in before


This is the one I replaced it with