Fault codes on new purchase
#1
Fault codes on new purchase
Hi I'm Mark and I have just bought a 2002 x type 2 litre V6 model and within days the engine management light has come on?.........A friend has a reader and it shows Fault Codes P0037 and Code P1642 Can someone please tell me the cause of this and tell me what to do about it? I think it may be an oxygen sensor if so where's best place to buy it or is it best to take to a garage? I live in Nottingham if anyone has any recommendations?
Thanks in Advance
Thanks in Advance
#2
Welcome to the forum Mark,
Here's the extract from the Jaguar DTC listing for the fault codes you have with possible causes in the right hand column:
I'll leave it to the model experts to make recommendations.
If you are looking for an independent Jaguar specialist garage for help, one of the World's best is in Nottingham - David Marks Garages.
When you get a minute, please follow this link New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum to the New Member Area - Intro a MUST forum and post some info about yourself and your vehicle for all members to see.
In return you'll get a proper welcome and some useful advice about posting to the forum.
Graham
Here's the extract from the Jaguar DTC listing for the fault codes you have with possible causes in the right hand column:
I'll leave it to the model experts to make recommendations.
If you are looking for an independent Jaguar specialist garage for help, one of the World's best is in Nottingham - David Marks Garages.
When you get a minute, please follow this link New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum to the New Member Area - Intro a MUST forum and post some info about yourself and your vehicle for all members to see.
In return you'll get a proper welcome and some useful advice about posting to the forum.
Graham
#4
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thornton, first off, welcome to the Forums. Lots of good people here and tons of information that I am sure you will find of use. So, sit back and enjoy.
As for your problem, I know you are going to wonder if I have fallen off my rocker, but have your battery tested. We have found that when you start getting unrelated codes just randomly appearing, it is due to the battery starting to get weak (not to the point that the car will not start). This seems to throw the ECU into fits and it will start putting out random faults. So, unless the test shop says that the battery is "like new", I would start there. Even if this doesn't fix your problem, with the colder weather coming on, it will give you some peace of mind that you will be able to start the car whenever.
If the battery does not fix your problem, you will need to crawl under the car and find the downstream Bank 1 O2 sensor. This one is fairly easy to find as it is right near the front of the car. You will see the exhaust pipe coming down in front of the oil pan and it is right there on the pipe. Specifically you are going to need to hand over hand the wiring associated with this sensor as it appears that the wiring has come in contact with something hot and it has shorted one of the power leads to ground. This is then affecting the ECU as the power is being directed away from the computer.
That should hopefully get you back on the road.
As for your problem, I know you are going to wonder if I have fallen off my rocker, but have your battery tested. We have found that when you start getting unrelated codes just randomly appearing, it is due to the battery starting to get weak (not to the point that the car will not start). This seems to throw the ECU into fits and it will start putting out random faults. So, unless the test shop says that the battery is "like new", I would start there. Even if this doesn't fix your problem, with the colder weather coming on, it will give you some peace of mind that you will be able to start the car whenever.
If the battery does not fix your problem, you will need to crawl under the car and find the downstream Bank 1 O2 sensor. This one is fairly easy to find as it is right near the front of the car. You will see the exhaust pipe coming down in front of the oil pan and it is right there on the pipe. Specifically you are going to need to hand over hand the wiring associated with this sensor as it appears that the wiring has come in contact with something hot and it has shorted one of the power leads to ground. This is then affecting the ECU as the power is being directed away from the computer.
That should hopefully get you back on the road.
#7
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#8
Oxygen sensor
Hi Guys I have checked the Battery and Alternator and the pipework all good so am ruling out that cause so only thing now is the code flagged for oxygen sensor Bank 1 Sensor 2..........can someone confirm whereabouts and best way to replace it and tell me best place to purchase it at a reasonable price? Is a replacement part OK or do I need a Jaguar part direct from Manufacturer as some stuff on the net warns of bad readings on pattern parts???
Many Thanks in Advance!
Many Thanks in Advance!
#9
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Jac, you are correct. I was going off of memory and dealing with as many cars as I do, I get this confused some times. Bank 1 is the one against the firewall.
Thornton, do you have to get a Jaguar part for this. By no means. What you are going to find is that you are going to find the O2 sensors in 2 different price ranges. You will find some in the $25 (USD) range and then some in the roughly $150 (USD) range. The difference between the two is that the $25 one has no plug to it. So, you have to take the wires and attach them to the existing plug. If you have the ability to solder or do a quality splice job, then this can be the way to go. If electrical is not your cup of tea, then you stand a big chance of messing something up and having to do things 2 or more times. The $150 sensors have the plug already installed, so, the repair is simply unplug, remove the sensor, install new sensor, plug back in.
If you are going to go with the cheaper sensor and splice the wiring together, I would recommend looking into a product called "Raychem WCSF-070". This stuff is essentially heat shrink on steroids. I use it at work to survive a nuclear disaster (literally). It will handle the under hood conditions just fine. The Raychem is slightly different than most heat shrink as it has a glue on the inside that will seal against the insulation and prevent water intrusion into the butt splice, leading to future electrical issues. All you have to do is make sure that you leave atleast 3 CM of overlap of the wiring insulation and the Raychem on each end (so your piece of Raychem will be about 9 CM long, two 3 CM lengths for overlap and about 3 CM for the butt splice). You shrink that down so you end up with a little orange "donut" on the end where the Raychem touches the wire and it will be like it was one solid piece of wiring.
If you need more info, let me know.
Thornton, do you have to get a Jaguar part for this. By no means. What you are going to find is that you are going to find the O2 sensors in 2 different price ranges. You will find some in the $25 (USD) range and then some in the roughly $150 (USD) range. The difference between the two is that the $25 one has no plug to it. So, you have to take the wires and attach them to the existing plug. If you have the ability to solder or do a quality splice job, then this can be the way to go. If electrical is not your cup of tea, then you stand a big chance of messing something up and having to do things 2 or more times. The $150 sensors have the plug already installed, so, the repair is simply unplug, remove the sensor, install new sensor, plug back in.
If you are going to go with the cheaper sensor and splice the wiring together, I would recommend looking into a product called "Raychem WCSF-070". This stuff is essentially heat shrink on steroids. I use it at work to survive a nuclear disaster (literally). It will handle the under hood conditions just fine. The Raychem is slightly different than most heat shrink as it has a glue on the inside that will seal against the insulation and prevent water intrusion into the butt splice, leading to future electrical issues. All you have to do is make sure that you leave atleast 3 CM of overlap of the wiring insulation and the Raychem on each end (so your piece of Raychem will be about 9 CM long, two 3 CM lengths for overlap and about 3 CM for the butt splice). You shrink that down so you end up with a little orange "donut" on the end where the Raychem touches the wire and it will be like it was one solid piece of wiring.
If you need more info, let me know.
#10
Thornton, Here is the one that I used. It fit perfectly. Part no. NP234498 Discount O2 Sensor - Oxygen Sensor) $58.08 You have to type in year.
Last edited by Jac; 12-22-2013 at 09:10 AM.
#11
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thornton, just keep in mind that you have 2 different style sensors in your car. You have what are referred to as upstream sensors and you have downstream sensors. The upstream sensor is known as a wideband sensor. This tends to run a little bit more than your generic O2 sensor. The factory unit is made by Denso and is part number 234-9029. Bosch also makes one and it is part number 15627. There are other brands out there that make the sensors. So, just make sure you know what you are buying.
#13
latest
Hi Guys,
Well the light has gone off after changing the Maf Sensor and clearing down with reader.........This was first shown as the fault code on a cheap reader of my own but a more expensive version I borrowed gave the sensor at fault? So its a suck it and see moment lets see if the light re-appears or was it the maf after all?????
Well the light has gone off after changing the Maf Sensor and clearing down with reader.........This was first shown as the fault code on a cheap reader of my own but a more expensive version I borrowed gave the sensor at fault? So its a suck it and see moment lets see if the light re-appears or was it the maf after all?????
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