I bet everyone on this forum is used to me complaining about my XK by now... so SURPRISE! Now my wife's X-Type is all jacked up.

For reference: 2002 X-Type 3.0, only 35,000 miles!

Driving to PA the other day, rip it out onto the Parkway as I always do, and the car just starts revving without increasing past about 40-45mph. Gearbox fault and check engine light up. No prior indication of any trans problems. I did a few power cycles to no avail, and took the local roads home.The car would only occasionally do this high-revving-in-no-gear at speeds below 40mph.

I took out the TCM and ECU, as I know all about the water issues, and they were both bone-dry, brand new looking with no corrosion, condensation, or anything that would lead me to believe one of them was at fault. Reconnected everything and took it for a drive: same thing. F me, looks like I need a new trans.

Now the scanner read P0735, which is 5th gear incorrect ratio. Most posts regarding this code say "replace the trans". But according to my understanding of what this means, the high revs just aren't matching rotational speed.

So is it a remote possibility that the trans isn't bad? (I just really don't feel like swapping a trans, and funds are too low to hire someone at the moment.) Has anyone had this issue and NOT had to replace the whole trans? Is it possible that an incorrect amount of fluid would do this? What are the possibilities?

- Marty

 

Also, has anyone here done a trans swap on an X-Type? Are there any threads that I am missing documenting or describing it? How difficult is it? (I do all of my own work if I can, limiting factor usually being lack of a lift.)

 

Hi there MM, I'd be surprised if the trans has had a fluidchange at that mileage, that may be a possibility and worth at least checking into?

I'm in the UK and know of at least 1 A rated ZF trans specialist who would be able to offer good advice, but you're in the US, do you have any decent trans shop you trust to ask advice?

Perhaps some of the X type gurus will chime in soon...

 

This was going to be my next step, changing the fluid. I just wanted to know if that could possibly cause what is happening, and I will take your post as a "maybe possible" and try it. lol

This is the Ford trans, by the way, not a ZF.

 

Update: I tried a hard reset, and the car is doing the same thing, missing gears. However, now it will not trip the fault or the engine light. If I let off the gas when it over-revs and ease back on the gas it will catch, but in overdrive I have to feather it so much that I can barely get it past 50mph when it slips again.

I am going to try a fluid change unless someone advises me that there is no possibility at all that this may be the issue.

 

Oh, and the car actually only has 32,000 miles; I previously posted 35k. So it's even less acceptable. Unless of course the mileage was rolled back prior to my purchase... But I hear that this is not easy to do, so I don't know.

 

These may help to give some indication......

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ure-faq-43649/

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...up-pics-63215/

How to flush and check fluid level Auto Trans - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum

 

Sorry to hear you're having trans problems. I had some very similar problems and did just about everything short of removing the trans trying to fix it and learned a bunch in the process about how these transmissions work, (even though mine eventually needed a rebuild to fix the problem). Wound up rebuilding mine for $1900 and it's working great now.

The most common problem with these transmissions is the reverse/high clutch drum or piston gets cracked and causes a bunch of problems. Good news is that there is a good chance that it can be fixed without removing the transmission in a few hours.

forum.mpvclub.com/download.php?id=9487
file:///C:/Users/zoraida/AppData/Local/Temp/Mazda.pdf

good luck and let us know how you get on.

 

Do you think this is my problem based on the info I provided? If so, this is the ticket. Looks like a fairly easy repair, as far as trans work goes.

Did you try this before you did your entire rebuild? Did it work for you? Is the access to the trans the same as on the Mazda, behind the wheel well? Does the trans need to be lowered on the Jag? I know the one guy said he lowered it on his Mazda, but the other guy did not need to, he just took longer to do the job.

Also, WITTRANS no longer carries the parts listed, but I found JF506E, JA5A-EL, 09A Transmission Parts Mazda which does, though the part numbers are different so I have to match them up. Any idea about the quality of this source?

 

I did this repair and replaced the reverse/high clutch piston, and seals. It eliminated one of my major faults but the unfortunately my trans had other issues that required it to be removed from the car.

The side cover came off pretty easily after lowering it down and removing the upper trans mount and side inner fender liner. Had to get the parts from two suppliers.

Cobra Transmissions had the Piston Kit, JF506E (RE5F01A) (D98961AK) = $64.99

Transmissionpartsus.com had the ring kit and seals W-183175A Ring Kit, JF506E (All) 2002-Up 1 $24.89; W-183338AK Seal Set, JF506E (All) Reverse Clutch Piston Seals (Contains: # 338 & # 339) 2002-Up 1 $13.35

Good luck and if you decide to tackle it yourself, let me know how you get on.

The first picture is the side cover off the car

The second shot is the reverse/high drum that contains the piston that usually goes bad, but the drum also needs to be looked at very closely as sometimes it can have hairline cracks in the middle of the tube section

The last photo is the inside of the drum that contains the piston. It's being pushed down with clamps to remove the snapring that holds it together so that it can be fully taken apart in order to get the piston out to replace it.

 

Thanks for all the help. Sorry to ask so many questions, but:
- What fault did it solve?
- What was the other problems it did not solve?
- Is lowering the trans mandatory, or is it possible leaving everything in tact?
- Did you use a lift? I no longer have access to one, I would be using jack stands.
- Should I even bother trying to do a transmission flush, or does that not even have the possibility of working based on my symptoms?

Thanks,
Marty

 

I can't exactly remember what faults cleared up, but I had a total of 3 transmission codes, it wouldn't shift into 5th gear, and had a constant gearbox fault light on dash. After fixing the reverse/high piston it was down to 1 fault so the trans had to come out.

Lowering the trans was easy, I just removed the two bolts on top of the transmission mount and it drooped down enough to get at everything. Did it in the driveway with a few jack stands and no special equipment.

I don't think a trans flush is going to make any difference at all with the problem your having, sorry.

 

Thanks for all your help man. I'm going to try this. If I'm patient enough I may even try to document it for the forum.

 

Hey, one more question for you before I start this (just got all parts in). There was a writeup on this repair in a Mazda forum that mentioned his frictions and steels all being burnt up. How were your frictions and steels when you did your repair? I'm not keen on opening it all up and then waiting another week for all those parts to come in if I know that I'll have to do them anyway.

Thanks

 

All my clutches (friction and steels) looked good. There were some very tiny hairline cracks on the side of the drum. The transmission shop said that they put the parts in an oven and heat them up and then the cracks are easy to see.

Good luck!

 

Ok, I'm stuck. The cover is off, but the studs on the inside of the cover that go into the retaining spring are getting caught on the drum, and there is not enough room to pull it off. I have located what appears to be the upper trans mount but I can only get to the two front bolts, and it looks like there is one in the back. I cannot get to this back bolt without removing the engine mount, but I'd rather not do that if I don't have to. You didn't mention removing the engine mount in your post, so how did you get around this?

 

Also, the trans sits about a half inch over the frame. I'm not sure that lowering it would even provide enough clearance? Or am I missing by just that little bit?

 

I took the two bolts out of the top transmission mount and it sagged down enough to get the cover off.

 

These are the two bolts just underneath and a bit behind the battery compartment? I loosened these, but the trans didn't move. There's a third bolt on the back of the mount that is covered by the motor mount and impossible to get to otherwise. Or am I looking at the wrong thing? I can't find a picture on google so I'll have to snap a pic when I get home from work, if it's not too dark out by then.

 

Here is a picture of the cover off with the transmission in the car. All I did was remove the two large bolts on the top mount over the transmission behind the battery box and it dropped down enough to get the cover off.