I have a 2004 X-Type automatic 5 speed 3.0l engine. I recently changed out the transfer case. Took it for a test drive and now it won't change out of second gear. It's showing gearbox fault but it's not giving any codes. Transmission is engaging with no jerking motions. Gears are changing from first to second smoothly. Has anyone had this issue? And how did you correct it?

 

I assume your transmission is Jatco JF506e!?
Your description begs the question: When you swapped the transfer box: What did you do to the transmission exactly?
(Btw.: I am just about to remove my own transfer box and transmission on a 2004 2.5L)
And did you check you ATF level? The check-bold is UNDER the car next to where the shifter cable connects to the JF506e.
Did you disconnect and reconnect that shifter cable, when you swapped the transfer box? Any chance, you reattached it incorrectly?

 

I didn't do anything to the transmission. And yes it's the Jatco. I didn't check the level of the fluid. I'll check that tomorrow. I didn't have to do anything to the tranny when I did the transfer case.

 

The procedure to check the ATF level
1. Get the ATF to the right temperature - e.g. by driving a very short distance. About 40°C is what you want. Maybe a tick more, as the ATF will cool down during the next step...
2. Jack up the X-Type somehow level (4 stands?)
3. Start the engine (in P gear) and let it run.
4. Remove the check bolt under the car (see my post in the following thread of where the check bolt is
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ug-help-72730/
5. Be prepared to immediately put the bolt back, if the ATF comes dripping out, because that is how it should be (with engine running).

If you are low on ATF, better do a full ATF flush (yes, even on the X-Type a full flush is possible!):
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...change-266693/

PS: Do not OVER-tighten the check-bolt, when you put it back in....

 

Thanks. I'll try that next. I'll let you know the outcome

 

AND, make sure you don't remove the wrong bolt to check the fluid level. It will release your reverse band, and that is NOT good. The check level bolt is the higher (upper) one which is counterintuitive of what you think it should be. I have a post (included in Peter's link above) on where and why even including an explosion of how the check level pipe works above the lower bolt.

 

Yes, Dell, this is why I was emphasizing over and over that the ATF level check bolt is UNDER the car. I am just a bit confused as to why you are mentioning a higher (upper) one...

So here is another brand-new picture I just took on my car of that bolt:

Don't be irritated as to why the 2 bolts on the bracket are removed in the picture - no need to remove bracket to get access to the bolt for checking. (I am currently preparing my transmission to remove it.) So again: The correct check bolt is UNDER the car - the WRONG bolt that could be mistaken for the check bolt is behind the the left front wheel: Opening that one would kill your reverse gear.

 

Okay. So I've checked the fluid level. It's was a little low. So I did the drain and fill method and now the fluid is level. But that didn't resolve the issue. I'm still not getting any codes. And gearbox fault is still showing. Could it be a shift solenoid? Or maybe the TCM? Would either one of them malfunction without giving a code? Thanks Peter and Dell for the input given so far.

 

ATF level was worth a try... So back to your initial posting:
> ...it won't change out of second gear. It's showing gearbox fault but it's not giving any codes. Gears are changing from first to second smoothly.

So you got 1st & 2nd gear - and P, I presume? To get from P to 1st & 2nd, you have to go thru R, N, D, and 3... So what happens, if you select any of those?

 

Rev/neutral and P all work fine. From a standstill transmission engages smoothly. If I choose 2, 3 or 4 tranny still engages smoothly.

 

So D is the only problem? What happens, if you select D?

PS: And confirming: Before swapping out the transfer case/box everything was all good with D, and suddenly after swapping it, D failed?

 

D engages. Tranny shifts from 1st to 2nd smoothly. Revs high when it's time to shift into third gear. And yes everything shifted fine before changing the TC

 

OK. This is a different failure description to your original post.
I am fresh out of ideas, but maybe somebody else has an idea based on that description now.
So to sum up:
The following gear selection options work as per design: P, 2, 3, 4, R, N.
But when you are in D, it automatically shifts from 1st to 2nd, but then it is stuck in 2nd and does not go on...

And I actually have a question for you, as I am about to remove my transfer box (before I remove my transmission):
Technical Bulletin XT307-S941 (I attached it below) mentions on page 14, illustration 17:
"CAUTION: THE TRANSFER CASE LINK SHAFT SHOULD ONLY BE EXTRACTED BY A MAXIMUM
OF 200 MILLIMETER OR DAMAGE WILL OCCUR TO THE INTERNAL SEAL."
I am worried, because I do not understand, what they mean. As you have removed the transfer box already, can you explain? Where exactly is this link shaft?

 

The description is the same from the original post. When I drove the car, the tranny goes from first to second smoothly and then it does go into 3rd. It stays in 3rd.

 

As for the transfer case. If you're replacing it, then you don't have to worry about the internal seals. If you're reusing it then you don't want to pull the shaft all the way out before taking the transfer case off first. There's a snap ring on the end that may damage the inner seals if you pull it all the way out.

 

I didn't remove the half shaft from the transfer link shaft like the illustration shows. I pulled the complete shaft out before taking off the case because I wasn't reusing it. I hope this makes sense.

 

So when I pull the TC off the transmission, it works like pulling a drive shaft off the TC or the transmission? The connection-shaft will definitely remain on the TC? And I don't have to worry that I accidentally damage the internal seals of the TC (= there is no danger that the shaft between TC and transmission wants to rip itself out of the TC instead coming out of the transmission)?

Yes, I know now that you meant it in the original post as we clarified it now. I forgot that the gears are 2,3,4 and D, and thought it would be 1,2,3 and D, and when you wrote you can ONLY smoothly shift from 1st to 2nd, I thought you are talking about the low gears, i.e. you can only switch between 2 and 3 (and I wondered already, how you can get from P to 2 and 3...).

 

My transmission is automatic. P/R/N/D. 2/3/4 are over on the left. So the passenger side axle is connected to the TC link shaft. That link shaft can be separated from the axle if you choose to do it that way. Now the TC link shaft has a snap ring on the end of it. The end of that shaft goes into the transmission. The TC has a female bearing that goes around the tranny male cogs. The TC slides off the tranny cogs and then you'll have access to the snap ring on the end of the TC shaft link.

 

The gears in my TC had broken teeth. So it locked up. So I pulled the entire axle with the TC link shaft still attached to it out before taking off the TC. When removing the TC, don't pull on the link shaft. It won't come out with the snap ring on without a little force. I'll take pictures of my old one in the morning to give you a better visual.

 

Yes, the J-Gate is identical for LHD and RHD. I have the same J-Gate.
And in line with that, my TC is also on the right side of the car - just with the little difference that I have my steering wheel on the right side, too...

So here is where I am:

I removed the drive shaft (not sure now, if that is the RHS or LHS, but it will come to me, before I reinstall it... ). Note that I made it "shiny" already


And this is looking at the TC.

So I managed to remove both shafts and I found the best trick to overcome the retention force of the snap rings.
The next step is now to remove the long bolts attaching the TC to the tranny (I have to double check - I may have to remove the subframe first...)
And then I am unsure...: Do I just pull on the TC to get it of the tranny?
I read the TC has a weight of 19kg.