You don't have to remove the subframe to take out the TC.

 

Follow this procedure.

 

 

 

Once you remove all of the brackets especially the cast iron, you'll be able to get to the bolt on top of The TC without having to lower the subframe. After taking out the bolts you'll need to pry the TC away from the tranny carefully and slowly. I used a floor jack with a piece of 2×6 wood. I jacked it up under the TC applying just a bit of pressure. Then I pried the TC from the Tranny letting the jack support the weight

 

I will use a DIY-made "tranny-jack" as well.That’s for all the info above. Very similar to the Technical Bulletin.

I have to remove the subframe anyway for the tranny – I just was not sure about the order.

I have also already removed the prop shaft & the roll restrictor, and my drive shaft (I did that very carefully by prying the axle away from the TC). And because your picture (next to No. 36) is better than in the Technical Bulletin, I just realized that I managed to NOT damage the internal seal, even though, I was not sure, what they are on about.

I see now that No. 36 shows the same as what you see in my second photo as well – the wheel arch of the green Jag (just without the drive shaft already). That thing, which still sticks in my TC is apparently the “link shaft”.

So next I can just remove the bolts attaching the TC to the tranny and pull on the TC?... NO, I can’t: I think, I just understood it all, looking at No. 29 of the technical bulletin:

Just tell me, if I am correct, please:

So removing the drive shaft as I did it was correct!? Next I have to pull out the “link shaft” somehow, but definitely NOT completely, but only 200mm (or less) and fixate the half-pulled link-shaft in that position with a bracket as in TB No. 29!? And this pulls out the shaft from the tranny!? And now I can remove the bolts of the TC and remove it from the tranny?
And so: 200mm max.: Does that mean 200mm additional off the current position, or does that mean 200mm from the end of the link-shaft, that faces me to where the TC starts? And do I have to pull the whole 200mm, or what is the minimum?

 

I just found P/N 307-446 SHAFT LIMITER BRACKET for ridiculous prices on the net - All I need to know is the length of that part to make it myself. Does anybody know the length?

 

Your link shaft is out already. It's connect to your axle

 

The highlighted part is the link shaft. From the rubber seal back is the axle

 

I don't think so. Drive shaft and link shaft are 2 different shafts. My picture above the wheel arch of the green Jag shows the drive shaft only (and shocks).

The picture of the wheel arch shows that the link shaft is still stuck in there - the link shaft is this one:

And to make sure that I do not pull out the link shaft more than those 200mm there is this special bracket 307-446:


They sell this bracket very expensively on the net. But I think I just measured and guesstimated the length - knowing that the "pin" needs to have a diameter of 30mm to fit the hollow link-shaft. So by my reckoning, that bracket needs to be 185mm in length (end to end), which would make perfect sense...

 

That's not the drive shaft that's connect to the shocks. That's the axle. The drive shaft is the long shaft that runs from the TC to the rear of the vehicle.

 

The black sleeve you see is a seal. If you look inside of that with a flash light you will see where the TC meets the tranny.

 

I didn't have to use any tool to take out my link shaft. I popped mines out because I wasn't re-using the TC. I disconnected my axle from the spindle and then pulled the axle with link out in 1 piece.

 

Thus is what mines looked like when i pulled it out. All in 1 piece.

 

This is the drive shaft.

 

It's morning here now, so I'm back. The discussion with you helps me - after all, chatting with you, I figured out what all that means, which I did not understand in the technical bulletin. Especially this pic was VERY good (it also explains, why a seal will get damaged, when you pull the link shaft too much: The Circlip will rip it apart...):


Plus somehow I figured that I have to build that bracket myself and how it needs to look.

But I hope you are not getting upset, when I correct the terminology and which part is called how exactly:
Google: An axle is a rod or shaft that rotates the wheels and supports the weight of your vehicle.

Normally an axle is going all the way thru from the left to the right wheel.

In "my world", a drive shaft would be another word for a half-shaft or a half-axle.

But I just realized that you are right, too, as they call the prop-shaft in the papers you posted above and in the technical bulletin also "drive shaft".
And here comes Google again: If you try to find a drive shaft on the internet, you will get results for the prop-shaft and for the half-axle, e.g.:
https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic...ive-shaft.html
and also:
https://www.my-cardictionary.com/dri...ive-shaft.html

That long thing between the TC and the rear diff under the car is a prop shaft, or propeller shaft (makes sense - if the X-Type would be amphibious, that's where you would attach the outboard-propeller... ).

In summary, the term "drive shaft" is either misleading or misused by a lot of people, and as a result, confusing. Hence, I will not use the term drive shaft anymore, just prop shaft and half-axle.

That "Must Remain in Transfer Case"-Part on the picture above is the link shaft - here another picture of that bracket, with the usage description: To keep the link shaft in the TC:

Illustration 18 above (from TB) shows that bracket, too, and it shows the shaft, which it "limits", and if this bracket limits the movement of the link shaft, it means that the shaft shown there is the link shaft.

 

Understood. No problem. So how are you making out. I think I may have to change out my transmission. I've tried everything and I'm still having the same issue. I took out the valve body from the gearbox and tested all the shift solenoids and found nothing. So I'm at a lost at the moment.

 

Since the topic of this thread kind of shifted (which was my fault), I feel I should bring this thread back to it's original question:

The following gear selection options work as per design: P, 2, 3, 4, R, N.
But in D, it automatically shifts from 1st to 2nd, but then it is stuck in 2nd and does not go on...

3.0L 2004 X-Type, Transmission: Jatco JF506e. Recently the transfer case has been changed out by thread-starter. It's showing gearbox fault but it's not giving any codes. Transmission is engaging with no jerking motions. Gears are changing from first to second smoothly. In a first attempt to tackle the issue, ATF level has been checked. Was a bit low, and following this a drain and refill ATF change was done. No effect.

Does anyone have ideas?

PS:
And only now after writing this summary I saw the very recent post above: You took out the valve body from the gearbox (the Jatco JF506e?)? Wow! So took out the transmission? That was fast! I am in the slow lane there...

 

I think motorcarman is the one, who would know the answer to your question, and I think I found his answer to your question:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...problem-75056/

 

No I didnt take out the transmission yet. I was able to take out the valve body of the gearbox without taking out the tranny. If I can't solve the issue then my next step will be taking out the tranny.