Having general input problems, please forward basic input information and protocols.

Have to change rear brake pads and do not know how to post information request.

 

You just have done ....... but in the wrong place.

I've moved your question from Jaguar Forums Feedback & Suggestion Center to X-Type forum. This is the place to post technical questions about your model. Members here with the same model will be able to help.

I gave you links to the X-Type forum and US Midwest Region in my reply to your Intro:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/n...member-160079/

Questions about your vehicle should be posted in X-Type forum. Anything relevant to what's going on in Detroit should be posted in US Midwest Region forum.

Graham

 

Kyooshi, you have started out pretty good since you also included your year/make of car.

As for doing the brakes, these are not any more difficult than other vehicles that you have worked on. In short, this is what you are going to end up doing:

-Park car on level ground, release the e-brake once the tires are properly chocked in place
-Loosen the lugnuts and then lift the rear tire off of the ground and complete removing the rear tire
-Using a long flat blade screw driver, pry the e-brake lever towards the front of the car so you can remove the e-brake cable and then remove
-Undo 2 bolts holding the caliper to the brake support
-Using the screw driver, gently pry the caliper from the mount
-Remove the pads from the caliper mount
-Slightly crack open the bleeder port on the caliper and then using the special piston tool, turn the piston to push it into the caliper. Of note, one caliper will turn clockwise, the other will turn counter-clockwise. You will know you are turning it the correct direction as you will get some fluid to come out the vent. Turn and push (at the same time) until the piston is retracted back far enough to allow installation of the new pads. Also ensure the detentions on the outside of the piston (where the block attached to to the piston) are in the 12 and 6 o'clock positions. These get set into pegs on the back side of the pads.
-Using a wire brush, clean up the surfaces where the pads touch the caliper mounting bracket.

At this point, you will be ready to install the new pads and you simply reverse the directions above other than retracting the piston in and all will be golden. Then all you would be left with doing is a final bleeding of the rear brakes to ensure you haven't left any air in the caliper.

Of note, you may also find that applying a little bit of "pad adhesive" (available at your local auto parts store for like $5 which will be enough to do your cars for the next 20 years) to the joint where the back of the pad touches the piston and the back of the pad touches the caliper. This will prevent noises in the future as the pad will not be allowed to slip/slide under braking.

ONce everything is back together, run your e-brake lever up and down about 20 times. This should extend the piston back out to the proper location. You will know you are in the proper spot because the e-brake lever will be really easy to lift and will go all the way up and then suddenly you will feel it stop mid way on one stroke. This is where controlling how far the piston goes into the caliper will make this process easier.

 

Hello Thermo,

Quick question, I normally use a C-Clamp when doing disk pads and they push straight in, you mentioned something about pushing and turning at the same time. What tools will I need?

 

Kyooshi, you can use the C-clamp on the front calipers. They push straight in. So, you are good there.

As for the rear, you can run to your local auto parts store and they have a metal block that has 6 different sets of prongs (one set on each side of the block) with a 3/8" drive square in the middle of the prongs on each side. It runs like $10 for this block. An example would be this ( ). Then all you have to do is match up a side of the block that fits against the piston so it won't slip out (I would recommend painting this side of the block so you know what side to use for your car the next time). Then you simply take a 3/8" ratchet with a short extension and put the block on the end. You can then hold the caliper in one hand, apply some pressure against the piston as you turn the ratchet with the other hand. After you do it once or twice, it is pretty easy actually. The big thing is knowing that one side has to turn one direction while the other side goes the opposite way. if you watch the piston, one way the piston will be coming out at you, the other way the piston will either stay right where it is or will go down into the caliper (all depending on how hard you are pushing).

 

The rear pistons turn in the same direction as the wheel for each side (that makes it easier to remember)

 

Thermo

Brakes are done!!! Thanks for your invaluable assistance!