Had a nice scary incident today .
driving in dense traffic on the A12 @ 65mph ...touched the throttle a bit more and the glow plug light starts flashing and slight loss of power then a few seconds later the engine cuts out completely.

I keep a cheap OBD2 adaptor in the glove box and after coasting to a stop up the grass verge and cleaning the poop from my pants and opening the windows to let the swearing out... after surviving quite a few near misses... I did a very quick read out of the codes before turning the ignition off....

only one showing P0251...my cheap reader didn't show any more....and as the car restarted fine I got off of the verge and to work.

I have an old laptop with a mongoose pro and i think V131 software at home but not a with me at work at the moment...only set up the software a few weeks back and haven't used it yet....so I very much hope it works ok....I also should have all the tools to get the injectors out in my ford tools box ..once I find it....(too much stuff the the garage).

To add some history I have in the last few days had the car go into low power mode under high acceleration twice with glow plug light flashing...car had been absolutely fine till then....My initial thought was the VNT system but the turbo vanes move extremely easily and the actuator is moving just fine as well.

Once at work a quick google is showing P0251 as a fuel pressure fault...so I've done a quick and dirty leak off test in the car park with some old 500ml drink bottles from the recycle bin and OH POO... 3 of the injectors nearly filled the bottles in just over a minute and the fourth was almost as bad.........I feel my bank account about to be raped....trouble is around here (suffolk UK) there are not many 'good' diesel specialists who recondition and recalculate the injector codes properly afixing new coding stickers to the injectors ....I have my doubts about the one supposed Delphi agent here as they (a while back) tried to sell my dad a new HP Diesel pump for his car which was suffering from low power ...which after checking many cheaper possible faults turned out to be a nearly totally blocked Cat....his car ran fine for another 3 years after cleaning the Cat..till he sold it...So any suggestions of suppliers of real good recon injectors will be greatly appreciated... I don't mind ordering them from the UK or Germany


The other worry is ....is the fuel pump OK ... Gotta order a new filter so I can cut the 'old' one open ...albeit that the filter is only a a couple of months old and it is genuine delphi...no way of telling if its always had Delphi filter fitted of course.
I still can't get my head around why Delphi decided to route the leak back flow from the injectors via the 'clean' side of the system instead of into the 'dirty' side of the filter....madness.

I have question for the moment though .... I seem to remember I have ...somewhere in my garage a good fuel pump from a 2.2 tdci mondeo ... I now wondering if they are compatible with the 2.0 tdci engine....????
If they are I would swap the pumps just for peace of mind as the 2.2tdci lump seemed to be much much much less prone to pump failures.

Also has any one actually used a the IDS software to re-code the injectors... its a shame the ford software wont work as I seem to remember it was so simple .


Any Tips or suggestions on the IDS software or parts or other tests to do would be greatly appreciated .
I would really like to keep the old Jag on the road rather than scrapping it like so many end up.

 

Quick update ... after a quick part number cross reference it looks like I may be in 'luck' with the fuel pump looks like the 2.2tdci pumps will fit the 2.0tdci ...now to find some good injectors.

 

Read and do this first, this is much more common the problem than what path you are pursuing =

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-light-182637/

 

I hear ya Dell man ,many thanks for the suggestion .. however I had problems with my actuator when I bought the car and got another second hand one to replace it ...well actually a whole turbo including actuator for £70...I only used the actuator which worked fine(the rest of the VNT system was in surprisingly good condition), but also got a refurbished actuator by actronics as they're just down the road from where I work ... I refitted the refurb a few weeks ago .. and all was well
The idea was ...and still is to strip and rebuild the second hand turbo with a brand new core and swap out the turbos as I have like most people with a TD car well over 100K got a fair bit of wear and oil blow by on the core seals/ bushes....the wear isn't so bad as to cause impeller fouling but it wont fix its self

Just to make sure though as its literally a 5 min job I'll try refitting the second hand actuator that also worked when I get home (working over night at the mo...its 4:55am here)..... Unfortunately I cant see it fixing the diabolical leak back on the injectors though
remembering from my Ford days I seem to remember the limit's were around 40cc of leak back over 3 mins of hot engine run....mine would have failed that test in seconds ...I've got a proper leak back kit at home and I'll get some real volume figures tomorrow.
Plus unless the Jag's are vastly different to the MK3 mondeos they're based on the turbo fault doesn't normally cause the engine to cut out at speed... just 'limp home' mode and flashing coil light.
Anyway I'll let you know if the actuator helps or not.

thanks dude

 

Sounds like your leak off is definitely excessive.
My turbo is on it's way out, who is a good supplier of a quality core, as Garrett do not supply them ?


Paul.

 

Hi
Unfortunately I swapped out the turbo actuator this morning and it make no difference.
I should also point out that the idle has been very rough since it cut out.
I also did another-leak off test with my proper kit but it filled the bottles so fast they over flowed before I could stop the engine....
Also with the cover off of the engine and at home in a quieter environment I can clearly hear one of the injectors 'Tinking' (when the injector doesn't shut off fully in time and the combustion gasses enter the injector...its a very distinctive sound that sounds like a bit like a small metal hammer hitting the injector in question but with a light 'springy' quality to the noise....really really not good ....just hoping I can get it out OK.

Given the amount of leak back I surmise that the system has been running on the edge of the what the pump can supply for a while and the failed 'tinking' injector has pushed it over the edge..

AS for the turbo core's I've used Direct turbo several times with no problems and mostly look to pay around a £100 for new core. new cores for PSA engines can be had for ~ £80 from them which is a bargain and they seem to last well.
heres one of they're listings on ebay.

Jaguar X type 2.0td turbo core on Ebay

rebuilding a turbo at home using a new pre-balanced core is well within most home mechanics capabilities.

 

Well some good news cut the filter open today and didn't find and conclusive evidence of pump failure, I'd normally expect to see fine black particles from wear of the pump internals under my Leica stereozoom microscope.
Of course I've only had the car a couple months And it was serviced with a Dephi filter when I got it so don't have any way of knowing if past filters had metal in them of not....so decided to swap out the pump anyway.
So spent an hour and searched through my Garage and found the Refurb 2.2tdci pump I knew I had somewhere..I had it on a car that was written off in an accident but the pump had only been on it for 3 months....never let you're wife tell you that you keep too much stuff.
locking kit in place ....I found it much easier to remove the ABS connector for more space and better view.
The Duratorq locking kit works well on the Jag but I had to modify a T45 S2 long drive bit in the lathe and weld a nut on the end.
dirty fingers
if you do this make the bit 60mm long to clear the chassis leg.
pump from 2.2 mondeo on left and pump from 2.0 td Jag on the right ... just need to swap the pipes over
view from behind showing the mounting screws still captive behind the sprocket
newer pump installed, I also fitted a New Delphi IMV as well as eurocarparts had 45% off so it was cheap. , just need to every thing else back All in All its is just like working on a Mondeo except that the Jag has A LOT LESS space to do the job in....my large hand are very bruised now..
Took me close to 4 and a half hours...which is much longer than a Mondeo but given the reduced space and my large hands I didn't think was too bad.

 

Well time for an update.....turns out its two step forward one step back.
I read my injector codes before starting .....they matched the physical injectors in the car
OLD injector codes


The refurb' injectors were of course an easy fit , and coded in OK .... took a few attempts to get all 4 injector codes to 'take' with SDD V131.03

Before I installed the Injectors I did a check of the injector rail pressure with SDD and you could see the pressure jumping all over the place even when the engine was at a constant RPM.
With the refurb' injectors fitted the injector rail pressure is a dead straight line when the engine is at a constant RPM ... yay
Also i quick blast up the nearest A road confirms no more cutting out even when the throttle is floored.
so 1 victory for the moment anyway

BUT
In the course of doing this I've 'lost' my ABS ...I have an ABS warning light on my dash now ...but no ABS DTC's stored, neither my cheap OBD dongle with Torque pro or SDD 131 with the mongoose cable show any faults ...WTF.
I have feeling I didn't disconnect the battery when I was changing the HP pump ....yes I know Dumb as F**k... In my defence I had just finished a Night shift and was maybe too tired to do the change ..common sense often deserts me after 28hrs awake.
SOOO
either I fecked the ABS module by unplugging it and plugging it in again at the end of the pump change with out disconnecting the battery ...if the jag ecu is similar to fords then if the ABS module is dead you get no DTC's just a comm's fault.
OR
Some thing strange has happened during the injector coding with the mongoose and SDD.
I do remember a long time ago at Ford having a similar problem when one ECU had somehow lost the size of the wheels in the config...took a while to find that, so the abs config was incorrect.
I think I'm correct in saying the wheel data is stored in the VID block on the jag's and I don't want to program the VID with my cheap mongoose.
So for the moment I'm going with the first option as a second hand ABS pump is only ~£20 around here.

to top if off I sneezed and dropped my laptop after doing the injectors ...hayfever is b*tch... cue one dead laptop.
I have another old Dell at my disposal and will set up SDD again ...but is there a more stable version for the X-Types as I said earlier it took a few attempts to get the injector coding in ok.
#I now have copies of 130/131/138/145.... which is the best ???
I've made images of XP pro SP3 and Win 7 pro 32 for my old Dell's so I can at least swap and change OS installs quickly....you gota love macrium reflect free .

 

Read #11 & 19 posts =

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...le-3-a-200131/

 

Thanks Dell... I'm a bit confused now my car is a 2005 does that mean sdd will revert to IDs for diagnostics...or not.
Any way further issues have cropped up now resulting in the car being off the road... Basically the volume knob on my cheap head unit from eBay broke so I thought ... Ok I've still got the original stereo ... I'll put it back for now till a replacement arrives for the broken HU ... On plugging in the original stereo the traction control light started flashing like mad and the car will no longer turn over ...car started ok like 30 second's earlier...some how this has immobilised the car ...central locking still works ...no fuses blown in either box ...very strange ... I've got an old friend who has had experience with sdd on land rovers comming over to take a look soon ...ill I update then

 

I've heard by not disconnecting the battery when goofing with the ORIGINAL radio, sets off the anti-theft immobilizer. Maybe?

 

Btw, the dates on the software & cd is version dates not vehicle dates.

 

Well looks likes another Jag killed by a clone mongoose , damn coding the injector's with this Chinese pile of poo has totally screwed the car ... I ran through the injector coding again with my friend who works on land rovers and the injector's code ok but every time the procedure completes the ccf has also changed ...ok I didn't know about the ccf till he clicked on the "I" icon on the left hand side of the screen ... First time I did the coding looks like it changed the ccf to be a car with no abs .. second time he did it it changed to a normally aspirated 6v diesel !!! Wtf.... So now the turbo dosent work .. no fault codes for the turbo stored as it doesn't think it has one.. Something on this Mongoose close is corrupting my car configuration... The ccf file also states that it is corupt .... He has a da-vina or some name like that interface and I've got to wait till he gets time to take another's look ... failing that it's time to tow the car to jaguar... Ouch..

 

Pay heed to post # 5 & 9 =

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...n-i-do-183931/

 

MongoosePro JLR

If you use a counterfeit Mongoose diagnostic cable or counterfeit software, you risk severe damage to, or destroying the vehicle ECU, ECM or PCM controller unit. Once destroyed, the software cannot be reinstalled or replaced.

Counterfeit software has been found to contain malicious code that includes password and keystroke grabbers that will transmit confidential and sensitive personal information to hackers.

Counterfeit products are often listed on eBay and Amazon with manufacturer's stock (advertising) images and sold to unsuspecting buyers. Always insist on an actual product photo, including the Mongoose serial number which can be checked with DrewTech. While it may not be possible to identify an authentic product from a photo, it may be possible to identify a fake.

Don't risk damaging vehicle electronics and losing your sensitive computer data and passwords. Buy authentic DrewTech Mongoose products, with a DrewTech warranty, directly from DrewTech or authorized DrewTech retailers.

 

As "nice" as the warning is ... Dosent really help anyone who's been 'stung' by a fake Mongoose ... My hopes now ride on being able to treat the ECM like a new unit and use a genuine interface to flash it ...which according to my friend from land rover is exactly what they do when fitting a used/reconditioned unit.
fingers crossed it works or it'll either be repaired at jaguar or scrapped "parted out" depending on whether it'll cost more than the cars worth to fix.

 

OK So time for an update ...spoiler ......The Jag is running again with no ABS or Turbo Fault.

It's been awhile as I've had my hernia operation that unfortunately had to done via Open surgery rather than Key hole due to a large bit of my large intestine hanging down the left hand side of my groin..
This left me unable to lift (for a couple of weeks) the laptop let alone the 60A charger to get the magic green battery symbol at ALL times during programming.

Any way I tried my friends Da-Vina device and it would not 'talk' to my car . He then tried updating the firmware which didn't work .
After talking to Diagnostic Associates and sending pictures of the device to them for him......turns out he'd also unknowingly bought a fake device....looked very real us both comparing to DA's web site ...
I've been in direct contact with DA and it turns out if you buy a DA device from ANY source other than Diagnostic Associates it will most likely be a fake as they ONLY sell through they're own website.
He did buy it from a .co.uk web site but as it turns out it was a front for a Chinese faker of OBD devices... to cut a long storey short the shipping back to china was ~50% of the cost of the device and it still works on his landies...so he still has it.

Any way onto the X-type....after a bit of digging ...SDD is so less intuitive than IDS
Turns out SDD 130/131/134/138 all had defaulted to a 4X43 ECM variant as it couldn't read the CCF or VID blocks properly....my ECM is a 6x43 variant
So I installed IDS 125 and using my cheapo mongoose pro configured the ECM as if it was a new one .. obviously selecting 6x43 and entering 16" wheels and the injector codes ...VID programming failed on the IPK but that didn't matter as I hadn't actually changed the ECM/IPK or anything other than injectors.
You have to wonder what was going through JLR's minds when they moved to SDD.
One thing to note here is you need the original stereo at least temporarily refitted to allow the programming to work 100%....damn good job I kept it ...in fact keeps yours if you've swapped it out for a modern HU ...they're not worth much anyway....even if don't know the radio code its so easy to bypass anyway...just search you-tube
Bada bing ....ABS and turbo all working again....NOTE the turbo actuator and ABS units were never changed ... in fact the ABS unit I ordered never turned up so I got a refund

Just took car for a drive and its seems ok ....its still a high mileage car so not perfect but , seems to drive ok and so far no glow plug lights for the injectors ...yay.

So this time It wasn't the cheapo Mongoose but instead the Software ...note I never could get SDD 145 to work properly and don't think It'd let me program the modules anyway.
Note.. I used a native install of IDS 125 on Win Xp SP3 ...NOT a VM....

Only Time will tell if the celebration is premature....I have every thing crossed .

 

Just a small update to say the X-type is so far pulling like a train faster than its ever been and no glow plug lights at all even under the heaviest right foot so far.
If only I'd used IDS not SDD in the first place I'd most likely have avoided the car being off the road for a month.... hindsight is a wonderful thing eh.
Anyway it now means I don't have to drive our horrible (but much newer) Citroen to work anymore yay.
Plus I've learn't allot about how the x-type ECM/GEM etc.. work and connect ...now onto the the general maintenance.