I know these have been discussed already in other threads already but I wanted to get all my information from one place so I could work on em. I have bank lean 1 and 2 codes from my car. I initially thought it was because it was from the gasket before the flexible pipe in the exhaust which made the car sound terrible but i fixed that yesterday and after clearing the codes i still get bank lean codes. I know it has something to do with vacuum tubes and brake hose tube but i need help identifying them and if possible replacement part numbers. Problem no. 2 abs code c1145 which i know is the right speed wheel sensor. I have replaced both front bearing when i had a problem with my left wheel bearing (it never gave me an error code on the left side though). I need detailed instructions on locating the rh wheel sensor and diagnosing if it is bad or not. Thermo I know this is right up your alley so your help is very much appreciated. I'm not exactly an amateur mechanic so if you could be as descriptive as possible it will be appreciated

 

Did you install the bearing with the correct side facing IN?????
The ABS reluctor is incorporated in the bearing on ONE side and that needs to face the ABS sensor.

If you install the bearing backwards, then you will have NO READING for that wheel.

bob gauff

 

Yes I made sure of that plus I had the speed sensor reading b4 I replaced it

 

kojo, as for your lean condition, since you are getting it on both banks 1 and 2, I am placing money that you have either a dirty MAF sensor or one of the connections between the MAF sensor and the throttlebody are leaking. I would start with a good cleaning of the MAF and then go from there.

As for your speed sensor issue. Remove the sensor from the mounting on the wheel in question. First off, look at the end of the sensor and see if you spot any damage to the sensor. If you do, replace the sensor. Next, looking down the hole where the sensor sits, see if you can spot the teeth inside the hole. No teeth, bearing is not installed correctly. Finally, do a final check of the sensor to make sure that when you pass a screw driver by the tip of the sensor, that you get a deflection on the multimeter. If all of this is good, then you have a wiring issue for that wheel. The only way to find this is to hand over hand the wiring and see if you find any damage to the wiring. Depending on what you find will depend on how you fix the wiring. If you have any questions about fixing the wiring, let me know. I know a few tricks.

 

Thanx . Will work on them this weekend. Give you a little feedback

 

Kojo, I had the same issues. Spent too much money on the diag and fix. For the lean codes, check the "flaps" on the top half of the air intake. If you have the 3.0 they will look like 2 black round caps on the pass side of the engine. They will be on the top part of the engine, mounted on the side. They will each have 2 wires going to them, and are secured by 2 bolts each. With the engine running, listen for a hissing or sucking sound. That's what happened on mine. 2 $10 round seals and 10mins later she was all good.

For the wheel speed sensor, I also took the expensive route. Only to find it was a bad wire $30 wire assembly. Try swapping the wire assembly that starts at the wheel and connects just inside the fender/wheel well from drivers to pass and so forth. If your speed sensor code changes sides, there's your fix. If you don't have a code pulled, it's worth the $60 to replace both wires. No jacking up, or tire removal needed. Takes about 10 mins total.

Hope that helps!

 

I just had a 2005 S-Type 3.0 in my shop for Rich and Lean codes as well as multiple misfire DTCs. I finally found that the underside of the plastic intake tube noise baffle 'squarish' appendage had missing sections from deterioration. The 'false air' that the MAFS was not metering was causing the engine to run poorly at lower RPM.

You might remove the intake tube and check for any holes or damage.

A new one is less that $100.00

bob gauff

 

Thanx guys. I really haven't had time to try out all your suggestions. I should be able to get it going next weekend when I take it to the friends shop. Will keep you posted on what I find

 

Good to know I won't have to worry about that one since I removed the baffle on mine and plugged the respective hole on the intake tube.