HELP...my X-Type won't start!!! <<<
#1
HELP...my X-Type won't start!!! <<<
Hello.
I just bought a 2002 Xtype 2.5 off the Auction, but the car is not damaged or hit and it does not seem that it's been in any accident.
The only problem is that the car does not start.
When you turn the key, the starter spins strong but the engine does not start or even have a slight chance of igniting.
I don't know what the problem could be...??
Could it be something wrong with the fuel pump, or fuel injector or anything electrical or fuses?
If anyone knows anything or ANY suggestions please let me know.
I would greatly appreciate ANY help.
Please PM me or email me.
My email is: sergeybusiness@hotmail.com
Thanks
~Sergey~
I just bought a 2002 Xtype 2.5 off the Auction, but the car is not damaged or hit and it does not seem that it's been in any accident.
The only problem is that the car does not start.
When you turn the key, the starter spins strong but the engine does not start or even have a slight chance of igniting.
I don't know what the problem could be...??
Could it be something wrong with the fuel pump, or fuel injector or anything electrical or fuses?
If anyone knows anything or ANY suggestions please let me know.
I would greatly appreciate ANY help.
Please PM me or email me.
My email is: sergeybusiness@hotmail.com
Thanks
~Sergey~
#2
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
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Sergey, you most likely have 1 of 2 problems. That would be either a fuel system failure or an ignition failure. With that being said, the more likely thing is a fuel system failure.
The first thing I would do is connect up a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rails. Now, turn the ignition key to the "RUN" position (not to START). Does the gauge jump up to around 40-50 psi? If not, then you definitely have a fuel problem. If you get 40-50 psi, then attempt to start the car. Does the fuel pressure stay above 30 psi (it should stay near what the previous reading was)? If you are getting simply lower pressure readings, then that would indicate either a clogged fuel filter or a fuel pump that is going bad. Replace the fuel filter first and if things don't improve, then you will need to replace the fuel pump (fairly significant job, not too hard,but requires a lot of disassembly to get the fuel tank down enough to access the fuel pump). If you are getting no pressure. Then check fuse #81 under the dash. If that fuse is good, you will need to access the fuel pump module (bolted to the top of the fuel tank). Then you will need to use a multimeter to measure the red and yellow wires. There should be 12 VDC across these two wires (with the ignition switch in the RUN position). If you have power, then the fuel pump is bad. If you don't have power, the module is bad.
If you have good fuel pressure, then you have an ignition/spark issue. You will need to check the following fuses:
#F32 under the hood
#F28 under the hood
#F37 under the hood.
You should also check the fuel inertia switch to make sure that it hasn't tripped for some unknown reason. That will also kill power to the ECM.
With the fuses known to be good, you will need to remove the air box and then lift out one of the ignition coils. You will need to either pull a plug from the engine or if you have a spare one laying around, stick the plug in the end of the ignition coil. Now, with the help of a friend, hold the tip of the plug against the engine block as you are cranking the engine over. Are you seeing a small spark jump across the air gap of the plug? If yes, then we have a timing issue or we have missed something here. If you are not seeing a spark, then this would confirm a problem with the ECM. Replacement of the ECM will be your likely solution. Granted, I would recommend taking the car to a professional to have them verify that the numerous other sensors are functioning properly and we are not dealing with multiple problems.
if you need more help, let me know.
The first thing I would do is connect up a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rails. Now, turn the ignition key to the "RUN" position (not to START). Does the gauge jump up to around 40-50 psi? If not, then you definitely have a fuel problem. If you get 40-50 psi, then attempt to start the car. Does the fuel pressure stay above 30 psi (it should stay near what the previous reading was)? If you are getting simply lower pressure readings, then that would indicate either a clogged fuel filter or a fuel pump that is going bad. Replace the fuel filter first and if things don't improve, then you will need to replace the fuel pump (fairly significant job, not too hard,but requires a lot of disassembly to get the fuel tank down enough to access the fuel pump). If you are getting no pressure. Then check fuse #81 under the dash. If that fuse is good, you will need to access the fuel pump module (bolted to the top of the fuel tank). Then you will need to use a multimeter to measure the red and yellow wires. There should be 12 VDC across these two wires (with the ignition switch in the RUN position). If you have power, then the fuel pump is bad. If you don't have power, the module is bad.
If you have good fuel pressure, then you have an ignition/spark issue. You will need to check the following fuses:
#F32 under the hood
#F28 under the hood
#F37 under the hood.
You should also check the fuel inertia switch to make sure that it hasn't tripped for some unknown reason. That will also kill power to the ECM.
With the fuses known to be good, you will need to remove the air box and then lift out one of the ignition coils. You will need to either pull a plug from the engine or if you have a spare one laying around, stick the plug in the end of the ignition coil. Now, with the help of a friend, hold the tip of the plug against the engine block as you are cranking the engine over. Are you seeing a small spark jump across the air gap of the plug? If yes, then we have a timing issue or we have missed something here. If you are not seeing a spark, then this would confirm a problem with the ECM. Replacement of the ECM will be your likely solution. Granted, I would recommend taking the car to a professional to have them verify that the numerous other sensors are functioning properly and we are not dealing with multiple problems.
if you need more help, let me know.
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slvdvc, you can buy your own pressure gauge at almost any auto parts store (look in the tool section). They are like $20. But, if you are only planning on using this one time, then ask to see if the store has one that you can rent. A lot of stores have a free tool rental program. All you have to do is put down a deposit (normally the price of the tool), but when you return the tool, you get all of your money back. Attaching the tool is easy. If you look on the fuel rail, there appears to be an oversized tire valve stem. Pull off the plastic cap, connect up the fuel pressure gauge and you are done. Just make sure to relieve the pressure before taking it off.
#6
Wow
Wow Thermo! I was going to kick in my two-cents to help, but hey...you the man! Excellent flow chart of first aid.
I'm not sure of this one myself on the "X": The owner doesn't mention if he drove the car, parked it then tried to restart. Could the shifter not being completely in PARK cause the an open ignition circuit? He must have checked this. Also, there have been reports of main wiring harness connectors not completely plugged in. Happy New Year everyone!
I'm not sure of this one myself on the "X": The owner doesn't mention if he drove the car, parked it then tried to restart. Could the shifter not being completely in PARK cause the an open ignition circuit? He must have checked this. Also, there have been reports of main wiring harness connectors not completely plugged in. Happy New Year everyone!
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#8
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bfsgross, if the gear shift is not in PARK all the way, it will not complete the circuit and the motor will not even turn over (ie, starter will not spin at all). If you think that it could possibly be the gear shift lever being the issue, you can move the gear shift to the NEUTRAL position and attempt to start the vehicle there. The car can be started in either of these positions.
#9
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So the same thing happened to me this morning. The car started for 1 second, died, and then, would not start again. Later tonight after the car sat for 12hrs, I started looking for clues to what the problem might be. I read this post, and went down to begin diagnosing the problem but before I did anything I tried start the car again, and it started just fine however the fumes were really strong. I'm thinking the car somehow flooded itself this morning and took some time to recover - not sure though because I'm not a mechanic. But should this happen again to anyone, you might want to just let the car sit for awhile and try to start it later.
2002 x-type 2.5 60k miles.
2002 x-type 2.5 60k miles.
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