Hi all,
I had a RF wheel bearing go out so I was pulling the hub and the threads on the axle were shot from removal. I was out of time so I had it towed to a local shop and ordered a new cv axle.

First they called and said it was done but it is still making noise so I need a new transfer case. I told them that it was not making noise before i was just replacing due to the threads being stripped. I pointed out that they had a bind in the axle which was causing the clicking.

The next day they said they swapped out the axle for another one because the original replacement was too long?! But I still need a transfer case because it is making noise. I go up there and drive it and there is no noise but it has incredible torque steer when you give it throttle.

SOOOOOO.......my question is, does anyone have any idea what could be causing this torque steer? It pulls hard left when you give it throttle and hard right when you let off. I am stumped on this one!

 

Carter, not to ask a silly question, but are the tires the same size side to side (they didn't swap tires on you?). Different size tires would cause something like that. I would hope that because of them installing the CV axle, that hey didn't break something inside the transfer case. I could see where if they broke something inside the transfer case, under load, only 1 front wheel would be pulling, but when you let up, the other wheel would be dragging and pull the steering wheel the other way. That is about the only thing I can think of.

By the way, what part of MD are you in? I am south of you (hour south of DC). If you aren't too far away, may be I can take a look and see what is going on.

 

Thermo,
Thank you for the reply. The tires are only a week old and same brand and size. I sure hope they didn't mess up the t case! I have already replaced it once. They replace the right axle. Under throttle it pulls left and then back right when you let off. I am in southern Maryland near la plata.

 

Carter, a quick check that I would try, lift the front of the car up in the air (need both tires off of the ground). Set the e-brake, but put the car in Neutral (ensure the wheels are properly blocked). At this point, you should be able to spin the tires by hand. What you should experience is when you turn 1 wheel a given direction, the opposing wheel should spin the opposite way. If it doesn't, then something is broken in the drive train.

Since you have the front end up in the air, I would also do a tightness check of everything and see if you have a suspension component that is failing (or wasn't reinstalled correctly) which is allowing the alignment of the car to change under load which could possibly lead to the pulling you are seeing. Grab the front wheel on the sides (3 and 9 o'clock positions), attempt to turn the wheel like you were steering the car. Did you get any play? Jerk the wheel left and right quickly to see if you have any looseness there. Having a second person to watch for anything moving may be helpful too.

Hopefully it is something obvious. I think once you find it, the rest will be easy to resolve.

 

Yep, they messed up the transfer case! Drivers side free spins..even when in gear

 

If the transfer box that you put in is a late one without a viscous coupling, then when doing Thermo's test with rear wheels locked and gear in neutral, it is possible to turn one front wheel and for the other not to move and for the movement to be passed through the t'box to the gearbox proper. It all depends on where the greatest frictional load is! eg a partial barke seizure or a bad CV on the other side.
When you turned a front wheel when in gear, it should be free, but the one on the other side should turn in the other direction - you don't say what happened there?

With only one front wheel raised, it should turn freely in neutral, unless you have a viscous coupling, when it should be very stiff. With a gear selected or Park in an auto, it should lock solid.

 

If they replaced the right side axle and pulled out the intermediate shaft from the transfer case, they messed up your transfer case. 100%. There is an internal seal in there between the transmission and the transfer case that gets destroyed if you pull the intermediate shaft out of the transfer case by more than about 6 or 7 inches.

 

I lifted both wheels off of the ground. The drivers side spins freely whether in gear or not(manual).The other side does not move. You can hear something going on in the transfer cse when you spin the "dead" axle.You can clearly see huge gouges in the CV where they were beating it with something trying to get it out when they put it in wrong the first time. They obviously did not "trade" the axle for another one or it would not have gouges from beating it off, also the auto parts store told me it would be a week before they could get another one...lol

I am not clear about the "intermediate shaft" thing. The axle that went in and the one that came out both butt to the transfer case. There is no place to split it and leave anything in the case.

 

Carter, if you look near the transfer case, you should see a recess in the sleeve for the CV axle. There is a press fitting there that the CV axle goes into. The piece that is left between the CV axle and the transfer case is the intermediate shaft that they are talking about.

 

The axle that came from advance auto had the 2 joints and on the inner joint it ends with the splines and c-clip. So you are saying that the inner part is supposed to be popped off and reuse the existing piece that enters into the transfer case? I looked at the axle and did not see anywhere to take it apart.

 

Carter, yes, there is supposed to be a joint on the outside of the transfer case that comes apart (pressed together). IT is within a few inches of the outside of the case based on the diagrams. I have never replaced a CV axle on my car, so, no actual experience. Just looking at the drawings for what they show.

 

I have seen aftermarket passenger side axle shafts that elimiate the sleeve at the t-case and run from the wheel hub all the way through the transfer case into the transmission. Why in the world they made them I'll never know. As stated by another member when the intermediate shaft is pulled out of the t-case the circlip usually catches the seal inside and tears it causing the t-case to fill with transmission fluid and start puking out purple fluid (due to the mixing of fluids) out of the breather. That whole t-case setup is a tricky system to work on. I think your next best step is to take the vehicle to an actual Jaguar dealer and have them assess the point of failure. It may cost $150 or so for diagnosis but if it was damaged due to a faulty repair it may give you some recourse.

 

Sounds to me as though it's the front differential that's been messed up. It's close enough to the t'box for it to be difficult to be sure which is making the noise, but with the input to the front diff locked by being in gear, it should not be possible to turn one front wheel without it turning the other one the other way!

 

I have also seen the diagrams and was unsure of how this was supposed to go in. I would have surely found out before I started ripping things apart though. I work 12 hrs a day and have 3 kids so i just didn't have the time to mess with it.

The replacement axle did not appear to have a place to split it but I have not spent a whole lot of time looking at it.

I do smell burning trans fluid when driving the car now.

 

Well they tried to claim that it was like that when it came in. I am having it towed to the dealer to diagnose it then I will file suit against them. I gave them a chance to man up and fix their mistake, now they are probably gonna have to pay 10 times as much.

 

You are absolutely doing the right thing. I don't care how spectacular the technician is EVERYONE makes mistakes. It takes a man of integrity to own up to them and make it right for the customer. If it turns out to be a mistake on their part they are trying to hide so they're not on the hook for making it right, shame on them. One thing a shop or even an individual technician does not want is bad word of mouth. If it was an honest mistake and they tried to make it right by you, admitting fault and trying to come to the best resolution I can respect that. It is also very common practice to try and pin a preexisting problem on a shop to try and get it repaired for free. I don't believe anyone on this forum is that kind of person. That being said, if your dealer determines it to be technician error and they tried to hide it... stick it to 'em

 

I offer for your leisure reading:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...71/#post642510

 

Exactly. I know there are people that try to blame every little problem with their car on the shop that worked on it last. I had a talk with them about this. The only problem with the car was a bad wheel bearing and stripped threads on the axle. I just put new tires, rotors, water pump, rear control arms and struts on the car. I would not have done any of this if the transfer case was suspect...lol

After he realized that I was not bluffing he called back and offered to take it to "his" transmission shop. I refused as I dont believe a shop that has been dishonest from the beginning is all of the sudden going to do the right thing. He was gonna try to get a buddy to say that it is normal wear & tear.

The dealer will diagnose it without prejudice. If it is something that happened between my house and the shop I will eat it, but I seriously doubt that is the case.