I think my fan controller is bad
#21
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Alfred, if you have an early 2004 X-Type, then you want to be looking at fuses F8 and F37 in the engine bay fuse box. If you have a later 2004 X-Type, then look at fuses F16 and F40 in the engine bay fuse box.
Hope this helps.
P.S. Welcome to the forums. Stick around. Grab a cup of Joe and relax. I think that you will find a lot of good information here and tons of friendly people. But, we do ask 1 thing though: stop by the "New Member" section and introduce yourself. We are a friendly bunch and like to get to know the new members. You may even find out who the movers and shakers are around here.
Hope this helps.
P.S. Welcome to the forums. Stick around. Grab a cup of Joe and relax. I think that you will find a lot of good information here and tons of friendly people. But, we do ask 1 thing though: stop by the "New Member" section and introduce yourself. We are a friendly bunch and like to get to know the new members. You may even find out who the movers and shakers are around here.
#25
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Alfred, the easiest way that I can explain to locate the fan controller is to have you open the hood of your car and look on the backside of the radiator (do this when the motor is cold for safety reasons). You will see 2 fans there. You will see 2 wires coming out of each one. Follow a set of wires over towards the battery box. The small module that you come to next is the fan controller. You will see that both sets of fan wires go to a common plug.
As for bypassing the controller, how are you with wiring? This will help me figure out which way we will go with this. The two options at the moment is to either wire in a relay (but this will take a lot of wiring knowledge) or each time you start and stop your car, you will need to open the hood to connect/disconnect the fans (easy to do, but you need to remember to disconnect the fans else you are going to come out to a dead battery after about 30 minutes of having the engine off.
let me know what your abilities are and we will go from there.
As for bypassing the controller, how are you with wiring? This will help me figure out which way we will go with this. The two options at the moment is to either wire in a relay (but this will take a lot of wiring knowledge) or each time you start and stop your car, you will need to open the hood to connect/disconnect the fans (easy to do, but you need to remember to disconnect the fans else you are going to come out to a dead battery after about 30 minutes of having the engine off.
let me know what your abilities are and we will go from there.
#26
Thermo
Thanks for your information, yes I did find the controller and I have seeing the two fan going directly to both side of this box , and regarding the electrical wiring I am fairly ok ,not a professional ,if I have a photo to follow I could resolve this issue ,this bypass will determine (I think),I the problem coming from the controller ,mean while I am asking around for a used controller any advise since this items comes if new ,with the fan as a set so no code for it .
Thank you in advance.
Thanks for your information, yes I did find the controller and I have seeing the two fan going directly to both side of this box , and regarding the electrical wiring I am fairly ok ,not a professional ,if I have a photo to follow I could resolve this issue ,this bypass will determine (I think),I the problem coming from the controller ,mean while I am asking around for a used controller any advise since this items comes if new ,with the fan as a set so no code for it .
Thank you in advance.
#27
please see attached link
www.jaguarmerriamparts.com/parts/2004/JAGUAR/X-TYPE/?siteid=215718&vehicleid=1425811&diagram=4735060
http://www.xtypeparts.com/img/products/xtp937-1.jpg
www.jaguarmerriamparts.com/parts/2004/JAGUAR/X-TYPE/?siteid=215718&vehicleid=1425811&diagram=4735060
http://www.xtypeparts.com/img/products/xtp937-1.jpg
Last edited by Alfred 1; 05-19-2012 at 10:18 AM. Reason: no heading
#28
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Alfred, when getting a new controller, you will also need to get the adapter harness. In 2004 jaguar made a change to the harness going to the fan controller. So, you will need a conversion cable to go from your old style plug to the new style plug on the controller.
if you look at one of the recent topics here, someone posted a link to where you can get a used controller that would be plug and play for you for $25 USD. Then all you would have to pay for is shipping ot get it to you in the UAE. That shouldn't be that bad.
I will work on making up a drawing for you to help get you going.
if you look at one of the recent topics here, someone posted a link to where you can get a used controller that would be plug and play for you for $25 USD. Then all you would have to pay for is shipping ot get it to you in the UAE. That shouldn't be that bad.
I will work on making up a drawing for you to help get you going.
#31
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Alfred, take a look at the below picture. The wiring between the battery and the relay should be 14 gauge wiring. Kinda like the wiring between the relay and the red wire of the fan should be 14 gauge. The wiring between the green wire of the fan and ground should be 14 gauge wiring. The other wiring can be 20 or 18 gauge wiring. This is all low current/low power wiring. The fuse I call for should be a 20 amp fuse. The relay should be either a 20 amp or 30 amp relay. The relay can be had at any auto parts store. These are generic items that they will have on the shelf. if in doubt, go over near the lighting section and they will have them there.
One note, this is only wiring up 1 of the 2 fans. This should be more than enough cooling for the car. if you crank up the A/C in your current weather conditions, it more than likely will not be enough. If you need to wire up a second fan, then you can repeat this for the other fan, but instead of connecting to the red wire, you will connect to the orange/green wire. Kinda like the green wire will be replaced with the orange/yellow wire.
This will work to allow the fan to be on any time the car is in the RUN position. if you are cruising down the highway (above say 50 KPH), the need for the fans is not there. But, less than that and you will need the fans.
Also make sure that the fans are pulling the air through the radiator and blowing it on the engine. The diagrams I have are not 100% clear on the red wire being the wire to apply the 12VDC to. if the fans are pulling the air from the engine and blowing it on to the front bumper, then you will need to reverse the red and green wires. Nothing big. Just a final check to make sure we don't do something silly.
One note, this is only wiring up 1 of the 2 fans. This should be more than enough cooling for the car. if you crank up the A/C in your current weather conditions, it more than likely will not be enough. If you need to wire up a second fan, then you can repeat this for the other fan, but instead of connecting to the red wire, you will connect to the orange/green wire. Kinda like the green wire will be replaced with the orange/yellow wire.
This will work to allow the fan to be on any time the car is in the RUN position. if you are cruising down the highway (above say 50 KPH), the need for the fans is not there. But, less than that and you will need the fans.
Also make sure that the fans are pulling the air through the radiator and blowing it on the engine. The diagrams I have are not 100% clear on the red wire being the wire to apply the 12VDC to. if the fans are pulling the air from the engine and blowing it on to the front bumper, then you will need to reverse the red and green wires. Nothing big. Just a final check to make sure we don't do something silly.
#33
Thermo
Thank you so much for your Dwg. And indication still I needed the following if it is not to mush to ask.
1-I needed detail of removing the fan from the car, in case if needed (I have no clue from where to start).
2- This work the short cut, do I need to remove the controller from his location or I can work around it,
My Question based on that in the relay there is no ground for the fan, is the fan grounded by default from the controller or???
After receiving your confirmation of the Controller to keep on or disconnect it and grounding the fans, purchasing the relay and fuses, I will test if any power coming from the controller and if one of the fan damaged, by directly placing power to the red line .
Your kind advice shall be a great help for me, I don’t what to go from a small problem to a major one.
Thank you so much for your Dwg. And indication still I needed the following if it is not to mush to ask.
1-I needed detail of removing the fan from the car, in case if needed (I have no clue from where to start).
2- This work the short cut, do I need to remove the controller from his location or I can work around it,
My Question based on that in the relay there is no ground for the fan, is the fan grounded by default from the controller or???
After receiving your confirmation of the Controller to keep on or disconnect it and grounding the fans, purchasing the relay and fuses, I will test if any power coming from the controller and if one of the fan damaged, by directly placing power to the red line .
Your kind advice shall be a great help for me, I don’t what to go from a small problem to a major one.
#34
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Alfred, removing the fan is not that difficult. Granted, you will more than likely need to get the front of the car up in the air a little bit as you will be pulling the plastic plate off of the bottom of the car (attaches between the bumper and the frame of the car). From there, you will find fasteners in the 4 corners of the fan assembly. Undo the wires for the fan assembly and it should fall out the bottom of the car. Install is the reverse process.
As for doing the modification that I talk about, you can leave the controller where it is. It is preferable just to undo the plug between the controller and the fan and leave the plug coming from the ECU there (unplugging that may cause a code to appear on the dash).
Yes, you will need to ground the fan as it does not ground itself through the shroud. What I recommend you do is look at the plug and then find some spade connectors that fit inside the plug. Then all you have to do is push the connectors into the plug end going to the fan. No cutting of the factory wiring. That way, when you get the new control module, you will be able to plug it right back in and not have to put anything back together.
If you want to test the fans prior to all of this, you can take 2 wires and attach them to the battery and then touch them to the red and green wires going to the fan. This will force the fan on. if the fan does not come on at this point, then you have bad fans. But, like I mentioned before, 99% of the time, it is the controller that has gone bad.
As for doing the modification that I talk about, you can leave the controller where it is. It is preferable just to undo the plug between the controller and the fan and leave the plug coming from the ECU there (unplugging that may cause a code to appear on the dash).
Yes, you will need to ground the fan as it does not ground itself through the shroud. What I recommend you do is look at the plug and then find some spade connectors that fit inside the plug. Then all you have to do is push the connectors into the plug end going to the fan. No cutting of the factory wiring. That way, when you get the new control module, you will be able to plug it right back in and not have to put anything back together.
If you want to test the fans prior to all of this, you can take 2 wires and attach them to the battery and then touch them to the red and green wires going to the fan. This will force the fan on. if the fan does not come on at this point, then you have bad fans. But, like I mentioned before, 99% of the time, it is the controller that has gone bad.
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