Removed the starter relay and jumped the leads; the starter cranks fine and strong
tested the battery; full 12.5 v
tested the load on battery (using the a/c fan and door open (interior lights., etc..) holds charge fine
Turn ignition to position II; everything normal except the console light flashes rapidly
Turn to start position ....nothing; no buzz; no click; no chatter or solenoid
Mine is 2003 vintage and does not have fuse F34....I did check every fuse and all are confirmed good
With ignition in II position; rapid flashing of console light for about 60 seconds; then one flash followed by two flashes (code 12)...repeats for a minute or two then goes out.
I have tried "resetting the alarm" by locking manually and then opening with remote.,
I have read all of the OBD codes and nothing spectacular (P0171;0174;03
01;1313;1316;0102;0112;0122;0222;0420;0430;1108;; None of the codes should stop it from cranking

 

To supplement the above post: I have also :
pressed the fuel pump reset switch in the passenger side panel
Turned the ignition to position III (start) with the radio on; the radio goes out and comes back on after the switch is returned to position II
The engine is not seized since the starter cranks by jumping the starter relay
I also tried having the ignition in position II while jumping the starter relay.....it cranks fine but will not ignite (start).

 

That's the PATS light, it must mean you have a security issue preventing the car from starting. Do you have any codes listed in the Drivers Door Module?

 

You have me on that one....how would I check the "drivers door modules? By the way, thank you for your response

 

So here is my analysis. 1. You have 2 keys and switched normal used set and spare is not "paired" to the car for some reason. 2. You inadvertently erased the "pairing" and you now need to pair (read here = program) the key to car (& if you have 2 keys, both must be present when pairing). Having a key fob not paired to your car, gives exactly the symptoms you have described by activating the fob immobilizer.

Pairing fob =https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://m.youtube.com/watch%3Fv%3DyJgp7bOGgns&ved=0ahUKEwj6ptTYuuHTAhVO-GMKHQ0XBfYQo7QBCBwwAA&usg=AFQjCNHjs9p1K1Wvl23dSy0c 2wMFCqRLkA&sig2=f4gO0Edxif3pFCJ3pX8pLw

 

Btw, a "search; of forums gives this (exact symptoms you describe) =

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...t-death-63928/

With the addition, he had valet key, lol

 

Also, manually locking and unlocking the driver door, will sometimes "fix" the security lock out. If the console light rapidly flashes, it's an indication of security system lock out mode.

 

I think you have a well thought out analysis but unfortunately, I only have ONE key. So inadvertently switching the keys was not p0robable; Erasing the pairing is possible and I have considered that. Not sure how it may have happened but at the end of the day, I do not think that is the problem. I did purchase a new key but it still needs to be cut and programmed (as on right now, it is still just a blank key).. I live in the rural areas so I am about sixty mile from Dallas (the nearest Jag dealer) so that is the absolute last resort since the car will need to be hauled on a flatbed (awd).
The other problem is that I just don't have a lot of faith in Mechanics whom I have never met and that is what I would be doing if I take it to a Dealership (last resort).
I tried to list everything that I have tried in the original post but I did miss listing some tests...sorry. I spoke to a Locksmith and he said that it is probably not the transponder chip in the key since the key has no visible physical damage (not impossible but improbable)....I want to exhaust all other tests first before I give up.
A Previous post (reply) suggests that there may be a Drivers Door Module Problem. I am not sure what that means or how t test for it but it does seem like something which needs the be eliminated.
I really appreciate your response and will strongly consider it.
Thank you so much.
Ron

 

Thank you Dell for your second response. It was that exact same post, which you kindly sent the link; that prompted me to do the manual lock/unlock test....(as listed in my original post) but it did not produce the desired result.

 

I am still trying to analyze the problem with my Jag. Based on some of the very appreciated suggestions from members, above; I think I will try:
a. remove the door panel on the drivers side door and visually check/lubricate all of the latching mechanism, etc..
Take the original key to Jaguar Dealership and have them duplicate a key/transponder.
Go through the manual lock/unlock cycle again.

Any Suggestions?
Thank you

 

Just to make sure you understand the "fob" thing. The lower half is doors, etc. The top half is the immobilizer part. One person I read up on, taped the top half of his fob under the dashboard to "trick" the car into thinking the correct fob (an ebay purchase of a dismantled car, with new cut key to work the ignition switch) was there. Never told the new purchaser of the car what they had done. Pretty sketchy.

 

Thank you Dell:
That is funny (and devious) about the transponder but I have heard of it being done (they even did the same thing on "Wheeler Dealers"). Love that show. Anyhow, I did go through the manual lock/unlock test once again with no luck...I decided against removing the door panels at this time and settled for a good dose of WD 40 on all the mechanisms since; the door ajar light goes out on the dash, when closed. I will do the long "round trip" to Jaguar tomorrow and post the results. I am optimistic but not convinced that it will solve the problem.....worth a trip at this time since I need two keys anyhow.
Thanks again
Ron

 

One last check to do, is turn key to position 2, watch dash lights as they sequence through their check. If the CEL (check engine light, the little amber motor icon) extinguishes, that is an indicator that indeed the immobilizer is activated.

 

That was an interesting check. I did not even get the "CEL" icon in the first place. The CEL did not come on at all, thus it was not there to go out. Several other lights did and cycled out. The only ones remaining were: seat belt, oil pressure and alternator (all as would be expected). Of course, it could be something as simple as a light bulb because the OBD testing works fine and are listed in the original post.
Thanks
Ron

 

When this happened was it just out of the blue and before then it was running just fine? Or were there any kind of warning signs or other issues with the car before this? Did you recently do any work on the car? Any other details you could think of that might play a hand into this?

You mentioned the P0171 and P0174 codes came up. Those indicate a vacuum leak, but that wouldn't prevent the car from starting.

 

Thank you for your interest Alphadude: It just happened kinda out of the blue. Returned from a trip of around 150 miles; the car was unloaded and then it just would not start again....go figure.

 

If you lock the car with the fob will the security light just blink slowly and steadily? Then when you unlock the car and get in and turn the key, is that when the light starts blinking as you describe?

 

I just found this document about the PATS system, but it is for the S-Type. I am guessing the codes would be the same, but can't verify that. On page 4 it explains what the blinking light code number is and then further down in the document it explains what it means and what to do about it. Hope this might help you as it does sound like a security issue.

 

They are enough the same. I have code 12 as common to both and the same as code B2103, meaning a bad code was received when reading a key. I think that means the key's bad or the device for reading it is.

Usually you'd try your other key as it is vital to have at least TWO - as the techs point out often...

 

Just wonder what could cause a programmed key to go bad unless it was somehow damaged. Very odd.