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I've been having miss fires and some other trouble so I'm in the middle of spark plug and coil pack change. I decided to r&r the lower manifold gaskets while I have the upper manifold removed. I also wanted to r&r the knock sensor since I have things apart, but I'm finding that I have to remove the steel coolant line that runs under the fuel rail. I tried everything to get to the one bolt holding the knock sensor in place, actually I can get a wrench around it, but it won't budge. I even hammered/tapped a very tight fitting open end wrench (3/8th inch) onto the bolt head. Still could not get the bolt to turn, wrench slipped off. As tight as it is, I can see that for a box end wrench to work I would need to apply force along the axis of the wrench and the turning force at the same time in order to keep the wrench on the bolt head.
Ideally, it needs a socket to contact all six flats of the bolt head in order to turn! What a pain as I really don't want to disturb the steel coolant line. I don't have a knock sensor code, but my X has 150K miles and I was hoping to do this as preventative. I figure I'm going to just carry on with the tune up and put her back together. Would have been nice if the engineers had made clearance to remove the knock sensor easier. That said, I haven't seen the side mount KS that is on 2003 models. Curious how easy that is to r&r.
Hello, found Hazet 10mm T-wrench #2573 did the job.
Very nice, yes that would have cracked the bolt loose. It grabs all 6 hex flats, I haven't seen one of those. Would like to have a few actually, 8mm, 10mm, maybe 12mm.
I ended up relocating the KS as you know. I'd prefer to do it correct, using that tool, but luckily I read that French man's post on JF here; smart guy! Like I said, I don't have a KS code, but that thing has 150K miles on it, and I don't plan on creeping this deep into the engine very often.
I started this fix 2 months ago and have gone from 12 OBD fault codes down to 2 codes. Rich in both banks: P0172, 75.
I actually use J P Morgan and Wells Fargo banks, but I'm not detecting Rich signals there tonight using my login from the Internet. ...something must be off.
Last edited by Patterson; May 27, 2018 at 03:35 AM.
I reinvestigated today, and found that the the knock sensor is not completely tightened down. Standing on passenger side of US spec vehicle. The bolt that's most difficult to access is actually tight but it isn't securing the knock sensor because the base wiggles a bit. I plan on a redo tomorrow and will update. Thanks for the response.
I have concluded that the replacement knock sensor is of poor quality from Advance Auto. And have since purchased an OEM. This will be a fo over to see if problem with cide is corrected.
Interesting please keep us informed with such an awkward repair I for one don't want to be tearing mine apart a second time if the one I bought from Amazon doesn't work in same way as the advance auto one is faulty because I believe alot of what is sold on Amazon is Asian or Indian copies
Had an ingenious work around to install the knock sensor. Here is his thread with instructions and pictures. Several members have followed this with success.
Im having A problem with my car. The video I will post is the same noise that my 2002 X-Type makes when i start it. I just changed the front 3 Ignition Coils and Spark Plugs. any Ideas on what the Noise is. Thank You
Link of the Video: Jaguar x-type engine problem - YouTube
I know this post is like from 2016 but I just have to comment that noise is not your engine the noise is your torque converter bolts are loosened up why because it happened to me thank God I caught it in time and I'm tighten back down again since it's 2016 when this was posted well you probably destroyed a lot of stuff just had a comment when I seen the video
Helpful tool for coolant pipe
