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My fix for rear anti roll bar knocking

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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 02:28 PM
  #1  
ferret's Avatar
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From: Coventry
Default My fix for rear anti roll bar knocking

Ok i posted a couple of threads on this problem about my rear anti roll bar bushes that keep making a knocking noise,I have cured this myself and here's how. to begin with i have recently had them replaced and all was ok but the noise re-apeared after a while. I removed the bushes and the anti roll bar for a closer inspection and noticed that there is still play in the bushes even though the correct ones were fitted i also found that where the bushed had been fitted the bar actually measured 8 thou smaller than the rest of the bar so i wound about 7/8 turns of electrical tape around the bar were the bushes fit.. I know that half dozen turns is more than 8 thou but it has made the bushes a nice tight fit to the bar were as it wasnt before , I then replaced the bushes over the tape and bolted eveything back together and guess what a perfectly quiet rear end job sorted 100%.
 

Last edited by ferret; Jan 20, 2010 at 04:03 PM.
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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 06:30 PM
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umbba77's Avatar
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From: Beverly Hills, Michigan
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how many miles were on your X before you did the bushings? I had 97K and replaced them...didn't need to do anything else and the racket in the back end disappeared.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2010 | 01:04 AM
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ferret's Avatar
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From: Coventry
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Originally Posted by umbba77
how many miles were on your X before you did the bushings? I had 97K and replaced them...didn't need to do anything else and the racket in the back end disappeared.
Well unfortunatley only 18000 from new and during that mileage i had the fronts replaced as well but they have been ok so far, Its the back that have given me the biggest problems.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2010 | 12:17 PM
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Disco stu55's Avatar
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From: Red Deer
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How much does it cost to replace the rear one
 
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Old Jan 21, 2010 | 01:41 PM
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I posted a link some years ago with pics showing how to replace them.
Mine were at about 65k when replaced
Dealers often use a trick..they remove the bushes,rotate them 180* and refit them so that the worn part is away from the wear and new rubber from the other side takes up any wear at the bottom.
What should have been a quick simle job to do took about an hour as the bolts were seized solid and the rust didnt help....T.G for Oxy-Acetylene!!
 
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Old Jan 21, 2010 | 02:50 PM
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ferret's Avatar
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From: Coventry
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BUCK MR2 ..thought your thread was brilliant and it was on your instructions on how i replaced mine..only problem was that to undo mine i had to use an "E10" torx socket and not an allen key.. they must have changed the design on mine (04 reg) but thanks again for a first class thread. Ken. Coventry UK.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2010 | 03:00 PM
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From: UK
Default Member meet

Thanks Ken
See you're in Coventry!
There are a number of Jags from 1 or 2 forums and clubs meeting at Hardwick Hall just off the M1 near Bolsover on June 6th...stick it in your diary if you can get along!
Hardwick Hall,
Doe Lea,
Chesterfield,
Derbyshir,
S44 5QJ
http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/main/w-hardwickhall
Click here for the map...
 
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Old Jan 22, 2010 | 07:11 AM
  #8  
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
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ferret do I see you posting over on the Range Rover P38 board sometimes? there is a member with the same handle. Just curious if you are in the same Jag/Land Rover trap that I am in.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2010 | 01:28 AM
  #9  
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From: Coventry
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Originally Posted by The Chris X
ferret do I see you posting over on the Range Rover P38 board sometimes? there is a member with the same handle. Just curious if you are in the same Jag/Land Rover trap that I am in.
No sorry its not me.Kind regards.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2010 | 04:55 AM
  #10  
Real_Tech's Avatar
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From: Motorcity
Default Rear swaybar bushing tips and tricks

If you replace the bushings make sure you get them from a Jag dealer and make sure they are current fresh stock. The latest bush is at least 3/8" taller than original bush and should be readily apparent when compared to the ones removed. These help take up the space on a worn bar.

Tricks: You don't have to remove the bushes to stop the knocking. Take a philips screw driver, preferably powered and run 3 inch and a quarter #12 or so sheet metal screws into the meaty portion of the bush. Knocking gone and you saved $180 off the Jag price of those bushes. Donations can be sent to.....
 
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Old Jan 28, 2010 | 11:18 AM
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w.neurauter's Avatar
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Thanks for the trick real tech. So just to be clear, you're running the screws through the rubber bushing parallel to the sway bar? I assume you just run enough screws through to take up any slop? Thanks again, I was just about to order new bushing when I saw this.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2010 | 02:22 PM
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From: Motorcity
Default You got it.

Yes parallel to the bar into the meaty portion where the rubber is thickest. Just use large enough screws so 3 or maybe 4 will do the job. I just usually space them equally or put 2 from one side and 1 or 2 from the other side in a position so they wont hit the screws from the other side. Of course i always try to sell the bushings first but a lot of people balk at the nearly $100 each price.
 
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