my own way to change TC fluid @110k
#1
01-12-2011, 12:42 AM
my own way to change TC fluid @110k
2003 jaguar x-type 2.5L blue @110k now
I have got a different idea on changing TC fluid.
don't make use of a check valve and don't use the original magnetic plug.
where did the fluid go?
there is a space of about 1000ml left for air + TC fluid within TC, I guess.
350 for air and 650 for fluid sounds good but when the fluid and air heated up to 150-180F degree, there are two possibilities: one is TC gears run under a high pressure that causes slowing down + noisy, the other is fluid would expand and get through the seal located between transmission and TC, through cv joints, and around the prop-shaft while our jags are running fast on the freeway. You couldn't find oil drops on the parking lot.
why not to use a check valve?
air and fluid can't release. air is full of the space after withdrawing/pouring out all/most of the dirty fluid. when you inject fluid through a check valve, do you think about the air existing inside TC? high pressure makes fluid + air go through any "exits" except the check valve.
why not to use the original plug?
someone uses a finger to block the hole after injecting 650ml and then inserts/tightens the original magnetic plug. I could imagine how fast the fluid flows out at the time of moving the finger away. Heat will kill TC later.
what is my solution?
I will tell about mine next week. think about coolant and pvc working system.
don't tell me there is a vent of this TC like a vent exists for each of engine oil and transmission oil we can see. Prove it please. I am very surprised at the designs of its transmission and TC where there are no vents for them. oil working inside these assemblies fights with air to share the limited space inside and be considered no dirt produced to mix with them. How long after running your car does it need to change those oils? no comments in the books. smart owners break the policies with changing transmission oil and TC oil but many owners don't know where those oils go. furthermore, oil burnt smell happens and power lost times. What talent mechanic designers Ford has!
today, 01-13-2011, at the moment when slowly unfastening the magnetic plug, I saw the TC fluid coming out. Good sign, isn't it? about 100ml normal dirty gear oil came out when the car standing on 4 jacks. another 120ml oil came out when tilting to the driver side. the plug was dirty with black sludge. the internal mouth of the hole was also dirty with sludge. my finger went into the hole, feeling there was some steel components located not far from the hole so I did not use my brake oil bleeder to suck out the other oil. I went to buy a brass nipple (1/2" mpt at one side, 13/16" hex in the middle, 1/4" cmp on the other side which for a hard plastic hose at home depot. I paid about $16 for both of them. I got a bottle of mobil #1 75w-140 gear oil(294ml) and an oil pump. OK now I used a 13/16" wrench with an open side to turn the nipple into the hole, then inserted one side of a hard plastic hose into the other side of the nipple and tightened the hex nut to compress the plastic hose on the nipple. I tried to pull the hose feeling pretty tight. I pulled the other side of the hose along the transmission bottom and through the open area up to the front of the battery. cut off the extra length and held it there. connect it with the oil pump. Now I pump oil into the hose. Wow, I felt a significant pressure producing after pumping 100ml. stopped pumping and took the pump's hose out. now I saw oil level dropping down ( that proved that there are no vents inside the TC assembly.) then kept pumping more oil into the hose until it stayed at a level just above the TC. The total oil of 300ml was pumped into it. That"s it. I am done. Now I can conclude that first, the original TC system was working under a high pressure of oil + air when it is hot and works fast. second, the pressure is a crime to make the seals malfunction and oils disappear unknowingly. second, TC oil should be changed at a certain of time. That is not life time working safely.
My own way of changing TC fluid has not proved absolutely correct yet. I have to make some road tests. on Jan. 16, 17, 18 I am going to las veges from Los Angeles. this test will test how high level the oil will go up when the TC works fast. I will install a moisture/oil filter on the top side of the hard hose so that the overflowed oil (if any) won't come to any other space.
If the above test proves good, I will test it again in the summer time when the weather is very hot. After the second test, I can make a final conclusion.
Note: don't forget to wear a 2-3" rubber hose outside of the hard plastic hose under the transmission bottom. Hot.
One week to argue about my idea is not long, Mmolaik.
01-14-2011 today 100ml gear oil was added into the TC. 400ml in total. so far it looks good. driving on the local streets gives me a nice feeling.
the good points of my own way:
1) significantly reducing the internal pressure (most of it is air pressure) when it is hot.
2) gear oil comes back totally to the TC chamber in the morning while air is released.
3) easy to watch the oil level in the TC chamber.
4) easy to add gear oil any time whenever it is necessary.
5) easy to pour out the dirty oil when the hose is pulled down to the floor.
01-15-2011 yesterday I drove 25 miles on the local streets. this morning I found oil leaking. I have to find out the problems: overflowed or leaking at the compressed joints of the hose and nipple fitting.
It was the compression fitting problem that caused oil leaking. I replaced them with 1/2"x1/8" nipple and 1/8"x1/4"brb side nipple shown in the picture. Now I think it should be OK. the part of the hose was wrapped up with high temperature tape under the bottom of the car.
01-28-2011 the new setup of nipples has stopped the oil leaking finally. at wondering if more or less oil should be added into the TC, I got a Code (p0174) of engine alert on the control panel about 10 days ago. I filled it up with the gear oil. That means the oil level rises up as high as the car battery until no more oil can be pushed in. Now I used my brake oil bleeder to suck out about 300ml oil and then deleted the engine error code with the code reader. it is just perfect, no more engine alert light on. I have added 160 miles to my car within 10 days. I am happy and satisfied with the result. On the freeways, it keeps running at 70miles/hour @2500 rpm. No oil overflowed, no hesitation of the gear performance, feeling solid and smooth at the TC. I will show pics of it later.
02-28-2011 the cel (p0174) flashed on 01-28-2011 has been proved of a fault of brake booster valve. now my jaguar runs much better than ever before. I still insist on my way of TC fluid management.
I have got a different idea on changing TC fluid.
don't make use of a check valve and don't use the original magnetic plug.
where did the fluid go?
there is a space of about 1000ml left for air + TC fluid within TC, I guess.
350 for air and 650 for fluid sounds good but when the fluid and air heated up to 150-180F degree, there are two possibilities: one is TC gears run under a high pressure that causes slowing down + noisy, the other is fluid would expand and get through the seal located between transmission and TC, through cv joints, and around the prop-shaft while our jags are running fast on the freeway. You couldn't find oil drops on the parking lot.
why not to use a check valve?
air and fluid can't release. air is full of the space after withdrawing/pouring out all/most of the dirty fluid. when you inject fluid through a check valve, do you think about the air existing inside TC? high pressure makes fluid + air go through any "exits" except the check valve.
why not to use the original plug?
someone uses a finger to block the hole after injecting 650ml and then inserts/tightens the original magnetic plug. I could imagine how fast the fluid flows out at the time of moving the finger away. Heat will kill TC later.
what is my solution?
I will tell about mine next week. think about coolant and pvc working system.
don't tell me there is a vent of this TC like a vent exists for each of engine oil and transmission oil we can see. Prove it please. I am very surprised at the designs of its transmission and TC where there are no vents for them. oil working inside these assemblies fights with air to share the limited space inside and be considered no dirt produced to mix with them. How long after running your car does it need to change those oils? no comments in the books. smart owners break the policies with changing transmission oil and TC oil but many owners don't know where those oils go. furthermore, oil burnt smell happens and power lost times. What talent mechanic designers Ford has!
today, 01-13-2011, at the moment when slowly unfastening the magnetic plug, I saw the TC fluid coming out. Good sign, isn't it? about 100ml normal dirty gear oil came out when the car standing on 4 jacks. another 120ml oil came out when tilting to the driver side. the plug was dirty with black sludge. the internal mouth of the hole was also dirty with sludge. my finger went into the hole, feeling there was some steel components located not far from the hole so I did not use my brake oil bleeder to suck out the other oil. I went to buy a brass nipple (1/2" mpt at one side, 13/16" hex in the middle, 1/4" cmp on the other side which for a hard plastic hose at home depot. I paid about $16 for both of them. I got a bottle of mobil #1 75w-140 gear oil(294ml) and an oil pump. OK now I used a 13/16" wrench with an open side to turn the nipple into the hole, then inserted one side of a hard plastic hose into the other side of the nipple and tightened the hex nut to compress the plastic hose on the nipple. I tried to pull the hose feeling pretty tight. I pulled the other side of the hose along the transmission bottom and through the open area up to the front of the battery. cut off the extra length and held it there. connect it with the oil pump. Now I pump oil into the hose. Wow, I felt a significant pressure producing after pumping 100ml. stopped pumping and took the pump's hose out. now I saw oil level dropping down ( that proved that there are no vents inside the TC assembly.) then kept pumping more oil into the hose until it stayed at a level just above the TC. The total oil of 300ml was pumped into it. That"s it. I am done. Now I can conclude that first, the original TC system was working under a high pressure of oil + air when it is hot and works fast. second, the pressure is a crime to make the seals malfunction and oils disappear unknowingly. second, TC oil should be changed at a certain of time. That is not life time working safely.
My own way of changing TC fluid has not proved absolutely correct yet. I have to make some road tests. on Jan. 16, 17, 18 I am going to las veges from Los Angeles. this test will test how high level the oil will go up when the TC works fast. I will install a moisture/oil filter on the top side of the hard hose so that the overflowed oil (if any) won't come to any other space.
If the above test proves good, I will test it again in the summer time when the weather is very hot. After the second test, I can make a final conclusion.
Note: don't forget to wear a 2-3" rubber hose outside of the hard plastic hose under the transmission bottom. Hot.
One week to argue about my idea is not long, Mmolaik.
01-14-2011 today 100ml gear oil was added into the TC. 400ml in total. so far it looks good. driving on the local streets gives me a nice feeling.
the good points of my own way:
1) significantly reducing the internal pressure (most of it is air pressure) when it is hot.
2) gear oil comes back totally to the TC chamber in the morning while air is released.
3) easy to watch the oil level in the TC chamber.
4) easy to add gear oil any time whenever it is necessary.
5) easy to pour out the dirty oil when the hose is pulled down to the floor.
01-15-2011 yesterday I drove 25 miles on the local streets. this morning I found oil leaking. I have to find out the problems: overflowed or leaking at the compressed joints of the hose and nipple fitting.
It was the compression fitting problem that caused oil leaking. I replaced them with 1/2"x1/8" nipple and 1/8"x1/4"brb side nipple shown in the picture. Now I think it should be OK. the part of the hose was wrapped up with high temperature tape under the bottom of the car.
01-28-2011 the new setup of nipples has stopped the oil leaking finally. at wondering if more or less oil should be added into the TC, I got a Code (p0174) of engine alert on the control panel about 10 days ago. I filled it up with the gear oil. That means the oil level rises up as high as the car battery until no more oil can be pushed in. Now I used my brake oil bleeder to suck out about 300ml oil and then deleted the engine error code with the code reader. it is just perfect, no more engine alert light on. I have added 160 miles to my car within 10 days. I am happy and satisfied with the result. On the freeways, it keeps running at 70miles/hour @2500 rpm. No oil overflowed, no hesitation of the gear performance, feeling solid and smooth at the TC. I will show pics of it later.
02-28-2011 the cel (p0174) flashed on 01-28-2011 has been proved of a fault of brake booster valve. now my jaguar runs much better than ever before. I still insist on my way of TC fluid management.
Last edited by Sienlee; 02-28-2011 at 07:39 PM.
#5
01-12-2011, 11:43 AM
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Belleville,Ontario,Canada
Posts: 204
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#6
01-12-2011, 01:40 PM
Veteran Member
#7
01-12-2011, 01:48 PM
the output for the rear drive shaft is below the oil level, and the shaft spins submerged in it. there is a flange on the shaft, with a typical oil seal around the outside of the flange.
But the flange is attached to the shaft on splines, and they are not oil-tight. there needs to be sealant on the splines. If not the oil creeps out and ends up inside the flange, and gets into the front of the driveshaft... so yes it is possible.
There are a few people that I can picture in my mind, how they look, their age etc.. and some I have no idea. Sometimes I would love to see a pic of you guys so I can respond better....
But the flange is attached to the shaft on splines, and they are not oil-tight. there needs to be sealant on the splines. If not the oil creeps out and ends up inside the flange, and gets into the front of the driveshaft... so yes it is possible.
There are a few people that I can picture in my mind, how they look, their age etc.. and some I have no idea. Sometimes I would love to see a pic of you guys so I can respond better....
Trending Topics
#8
01-12-2011, 08:42 PM
Veteran Member
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
aholbro1
XJ XJ6 / XJR6 ( X300 )
17
08-05-2021 05:02 AM
Wes Steenrod
New Member Area - Intro a MUST
6
09-06-2015 06:52 PM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)