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Need help getting out of limp mode

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Old Nov 29, 2024 | 09:55 PM
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Default Need help getting out of limp mode

Hey everyone I got my first jaguar a couple months ago and she was pretty cheap and only had 86,000 miles on her so I took a chance with a CEL and scanned the codes and didn’t see anything too bad. Now the only code that’s being thrown I can’t recall it I’ll get the obd2 out and scan it again tomorrow but as far as I can tell it shouldn’t be making my CEL which really confuses me as it’s just something to do with my fuel gauge not giving me an accurate reading or just flat out going to empty. I replaced the main pvc hose as it was completely tore and I saw from these forums that’s a common vacuum leak, I still think it’s gotta be a vacuum leak but I do not know as I need to read that code again but when I rev it while in neutral/park I can smell all the I burnt fuel, and it does have a little more vibration than I would think a jaguar would have, so like it’s definitely not running 100% but other than that the car seems fine. Anyways im just throwing it out here looking for some help
 
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Old Nov 30, 2024 | 12:59 AM
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What DTCs are stored in the system? Post them here or it's just guesswork. Do not drive the vehicle under conditions that cause the MIL to flash as catalyst damage is occurring.

Use the search function for common issues and how to correct them.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2024 | 06:54 AM
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Joshy, yes, codes are going to help us a lot. But, some of the common things that will cause what you are seeing are:
-vacuum leak from one of the "Big three" (ie, PCV hose, brake booster hose, and IMT valve o-rings). If you are not familiar with these, please do a search on "Big three" here and you will find tons of information.
-Potentially could be a leak from your upper and/or lower intake gaskets
-throttle body needs cleaned

Of note, please also state the model year of your car. If a 2004, please include the build month/year too (written in the drivers door jam). There was a major upgrade done in early 2004, so, some things are different before and after that along with other minor changes throughout the years. A caution I will give you is that Jaguar uses a slightly different OBDII code setup than other manufacturers. So, be careful looking up codes. They may send you on a wild goose chase. If you need a chart that is accurate, you can look above in the JTIS download and that will give you tons of info about your car. If you are still needing help, then write back here with your question.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2024 | 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Thermo
Joshy, yes, codes are going to help us a lot. But, some of the common things that will cause what you are seeing are:
-vacuum leak from one of the "Big three" (ie, PCV hose, brake booster hose, and IMT valve o-rings). If you are not familiar with these, please do a search on "Big three" here and you will find tons of information.
-Potentially could be a leak from your upper and/or lower intake gaskets
-throttle body needs cleaned

Of note, please also state the model year of your car. If a 2004, please include the build month/year too (written in the drivers door jam). There was a major upgrade done in early 2004, so, some things are different before and after that along with other minor changes throughout the years. A caution I will give you is that Jaguar uses a slightly different OBDII code setup than other manufacturers. So, be careful looking up codes. They may send you on a wild goose chase. If you need a chart that is accurate, you can look above in the JTIS download and that will give you tons of info about your car. If you are still needing help, then write back here with your question.
Hey thermo thanks for the detailed reply, and my x is a 2003. I did replace my pvc hose because it was tore and although I didn’t give it a very thorough check the brake booster line seemed fine to me, I have not looked at the imt valve and I will do that. But as far as codes the only code that’s being thrown is a B1202 which my autel is telling me is a fuel sender circuit open which is, I’m sure, why my gas gauge is intermittent and inaccurate. But that brings me back to I don’t know why the CEL is on because that’s the only code that is being thrown period. I saw about cleaning the throttle body I will also give that a shot.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2024 | 01:13 AM
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Joshy, I can help you out 1 step further. By knowing B1202, your fuel level sensor (circuit 1) is getting an open in the line.

As for your Limp mode problem, I would say to start with disconnecting the battery for 10 seconds or so and then reconnecting. Then start the car and see what codes come up then. If you are still in limp mode, then I would tell you to try a few hard pulls from a stop to see if you can cause something to come in. If the check engine light starts flashing, IMMEDIATELY get off of the gas let the light go back to being on solid. I guess the one check that we should do also is to have you get into the car and simply turn the key to the RUN position (do not start the engine), does the check engine light come on now? If no, then you have a problem with the instrument cluster. If yes, then we atleast know the check engine light is working.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2024 | 04:52 PM
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Thermo, I ended up cleaning my throttle body, it wasn’t very dirty at all so I don’t think that’s the issue, I wasn’t able to start it because my battery is too small for the car and it died because it’s cold. But I did actually send my instrument cluster across the country to get it fixed it was “quite corroded”, but when I turn the key my check engine light comes on. I did leave my battery unhooked for about a half an hour, and I didn’t even run the car. I just turned the key and the check engine light is on, it seems like the car doesn’t even need to realize that something’s wrong it just knows that something’s wrong so I am confused. I also did check over the big 3 vacuum leaks and it all seems perfect. I am at quite the loss
 
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Old Dec 1, 2024 | 05:03 PM
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I should also mention that I have manually cleared the code before with my Autel but as soon as I turn the key the CEL comes right back on and displays transmission fault on my screen. It does shift a little hard sometimes but I think that can be ironed out with a good transmission fluid flush and change the tcase and differential oil. Other than that the car is fine, my big issue is being hardly able to pull out on a highway because it is like borderline dangerous. I went from a 1994 dodge Dakota with a 3.9 liter to this jaguar and I haven’t been very impressed with it so far. I love the car and it’s very very comfortable, but this limp mode has really been weighing on me.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2024 | 07:32 PM
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Joshyboy, look up my name and tranny troubleshooting. I have written up a number of ways to check the tranny solenoids and what values you should get. It is sounding like your problem is a bad tranny solenoid. That would not be an uncommon issue with this car. A set of solenoids can be had for like $200 and putting them in isn't too bad. A lot of people find that the insulation for the solenoids actually fell off the wiring and the wiring was coming in contact with the tranny body, leading to spurious tranny problems.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2024 | 09:36 PM
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Thermo, thanks I’ll give it a look this weekend when I can get it up on the lift, Im not gonna drive it anymore until then because I did take it for a short drive today and it was smelling a little burnt. I’ll still flush it because I know it needs flushed but I will check out the shift solenoids. Would that make my CEL come on but not give me a code? My autel tells me different systems and shows what systems are giving faults and like I said the only fault is for that fuel sender circuit. No transmission faults detected.
 
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