I have a 2005 x-type 3.0. Drove it have the other night, no problems. Woke up the next morning and found a dead battery. Attempted to charge battery, charger said "replace battery". Got a new battery and battery went dead after a couple of hours. Also replaced alternator. There is a definitly a drain on the battery. No after market equipment on vehicle, all stock. can't locate the short.

Any common problems with these cars??

 

I'm not an X type expert at all but the first thing to do is measure the current drain.
You'll need a digital voltmeter with an 'Amps' range - cheap as old boots if you haven't got one.
Make sure it is on 'Amps' and you may need to plug the red lead into a special 'Amps' socket.
Disconnect batt +ve then , with everything switched off, put the meter between batt +ve and the + ve lead.
You'll need to re-charge the battery first of course.
Post the amps reading.

 

Check the ignition switch, if the little closing flap gets stuck the car won't go to sleep.

 

Norri, I checked the inginition switch. does'nt look like there is a flap there.

 

Steve I also just checked the amps. It's drawing about 10 amps.

 

Perhaps Norri's right and it is stuck out of sight.
Try some WD or whatever on the key + some skilful wiggling.
I'd be a bit surprised if that would run your battery down overnight though.
How about those amps?

 

Steve, I did the electrical test and it's drawing 10 amps. Any ideas ??

 

Obviously it isn't just because it's not going to sleep.
I'd definitely keep the earth disconnected 'til we sort it out because that will ruin your battery and could cause a fire.
We need an Xtype Xpert - they should be waking up in the US about now.
Otherwise it is a question of pulling fuses until you find it.
On a hunch, because you've changed the alternator, how hard would it be to disconnect both the battery lead and plug from it + check the drain again?
Obviously take great care not to short the big lead to earth.

 

Steve

Just ruled out starter, alternator. Checked amps from battery + and the lead to the main fuse box near the battery. That's where the drain is coming from. I then pulled every fuse in the box, no luck. I know the car has 3 other fuse boxes, but not sure if anything would draw those amps.

 

Maybe a sticky switch somewhere? Sunroof? Seat adjustment? Folding Mirror? Brakelights?

10 amps is quite a draw, you should be able to just touch the problem and find it, it will be hot.

 

Have you downloaded JTIS for your X-type.
It will have an electrical section with more than you ever want to know.
As Bruce said it has to be something quite meaty that's stuck on.
Have you done a hard reset (disconnect batt earth lead, touch to batt +ve for a few secs, reconnect earth lead ?
It doesn't hurt and forces the various modules to reboot JIC one has got confused.

 

Just checked seats, sunroof, brake lights. nothing. I was mistaking earlier, there's only 2 fuse boxes. Pulled every fuse in the boxes, still nothing.

Steve, just to make sure this is being done right. I have the amp meter + lead to the + side of the battery. With the + lead disconnected from the battery, I then connect the - lead from meter to + cable. That's showing about a 10 amp draw.

Where can I get the JTIS. Not sure on the instructions for the hard reset.

 

Just disconnected the + lead from under fuse box that go's into fire wall. Put a test light on it and it showed a slight short.
Tomorrow will be checking on the inside, any other ideas ???

 

Yes, that's right.
Look in the 'stickies' at the top of your forum, there's one on loading + installing JTIS.
If you've pulled all the fuses and disconnected the alternator it sounds like a short in the wiring loom but why you should get a constant 10 A beats me.

Hard reset - leave the +ve battery lead connected, disconnect the earth batt lead then touch the earth batt lead to the batt +ve post. That will drain down all the capacitors in the various modules.
It won't hurt but I don't have high hopes.

 

I will admit to being unfamiliar with the X-Type fuse box construction, but if it is like 99% of every other fuse box base, the bottom is uninsulated (open). It might be possible there is a whisker from a wire or somesuch, that is touching the frame/body underneath the fuse block.

It would be easy enuff to check - just unscrew the entire block from the body, turn it over and look.

I know that there are cat whiskers all over my house - it makes sense there might be some floating around the car.

(and that could explain why pulling fuses does not solve the problem).

Check your Kitty for Loose Whiskers!

 

I had the same idea Bruce, I checked the main box-nothing. I'll be checking the one under the dash tomorrow.

 

I dunno if this will help but check the cable that runs from the battery through to the bottom of the main fuse box under the bonnet. It runs right across a body bolt at it's lowest. My insulation had worn through at the bottom and you couldn't see it until it arc'd and smoldered. Just a thought.