Hi, signed up today, used to use a UK Jaguar Forum, but seems to have disappeared, so whilst trying to find it found this one, and recognise a number of peoples names/handles.

Anyway, I've has my X-Type since it was six months old, it's a 3.0L Sport, late 2001 model, now has a whopping 22k miles on the clock, Adriatic Blue, fairly standard. I have had many Jaguar's over the years, and for some reason this is my favourite.

The one problem, and only problem I have had since owning it is the one that raised it's head this weekend, no dipped headlights!, so I checked the fuses, and F67 in the passenger compartment had blown, changed fuse and dipped headlights back on, great, untill I went back five minutes later, kapput, and thought I would try another fuse, same again. If any one out there has any idea I would appreciate it.

Regards

Paul

Will post a picture soon

 

Try the R9 relay in the engine compartment as well as the F67 fuse. [sm=welcomesign.gif]to the forum.

 

Thanks queenmb, do you mean buy another R9, or is it the same spec as one of the other relays, as you can probably tell electrics aren't my thing.

Regards

Paul

 

Hey Paul welcome to the forum mate. Sounds like a nice X you have there...7 years old and only 22k on the clock too!!!
Sorry I can't help, but I'm sure others will follow soon with help / tips / suggestions.

Try and post up a pic sometime

Cheers

Jim

 

Paul,

According to JTIS schematics, F67 supplies power to several circuits including:
- dip beam relay R9,
- Transmission Control Module (TCM) relay R8 (automatic transmission only),
- Vacuum module (used only on early production models)
- active security sounder
- Transit Isolation Relay (automatic transmission only)
- Voice Activation Control Module

Any of the above circuits could be causing F67 to clear. If your car doesn't have an automatic transmission, voice activation, or a vacuum module, you can eliminate the associated circuits as possible causes of fuse clearing.

You can temporarily remove the dip beam relay R9 and the TCM relay R8 (if equipped), and see if F67 no longer clears (when the key is on). If the fuse survives, replace one relay at a time and see what happens. If you would rather not waste fuses, you can temporarily replace F67 with a small 12 volt lamp (like a side marker bulb). The lamp will effectively limit the current and provide you with fault indication (i.e., the lamp will glow brightly if a fault still exists somewhere in any of the above circuits, if no fault exists, the lamp will extinguish or possibly glow dimly).

As you eluded, to troubleshoot the dip beams, you can temporarily replace relay R9 with another relay that has the same part number.

Mark

 

Mark

Thanks for that, I will give that a try, armed with new relay and spare fuses, is the JTISmanual the one I have seen regulary on Ebay?


Paul

 

Have you checked the dip beam lamp sockets??? They overheat and melt
and it may be as simple as a short in one of the lamp sockets. The left dip
beamseems to have the most issues. Is your car wired for day time running
lights??? If so, there iseven more of a chance your dip beams have overheated
and melted cuz they are on all the time.

 

Paul,

I got my JTIS CD on EBAY about a year ago. It covers all models up to 2004.

Also note that fuse F67 (5 amp) supplies power to the coil of R9. The contacts of R9 apply another source of power to the dip beam lamps through 20 ampere fuses F16 and F17. A problem with the socket on the dip beam lamps would clear F16 or F17, not F67.

Mark

 

I spoke to my mechanic about a similar problem with just my left hand dipped headlight. He suggested adding another earth wire to the appropriate terminal in the block at the back of the bulb and grounding that nearby... I haven't done so yet... but it seems that this could be a simple solution that could be applied to both your headlights. I was assured that bad earths/groundwires are the cause of many electrical problems including the unexpected and frequent blowing of headlight bulbs.

Mike

 

My JTIS covers up to 2005 including 2.0 diesel saloon.
The UK forum is having a bit of a software update hopefully not too much longer.

 

Thanks for all the advice, I will try your suggestions over the festive break, and feedback the result as soon as I can.

Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year

Paul

 

I started by changing both bulbs, new fuse, and new relay R9, still blowing fuse F67, I looked at F16 & F17 but they seem ok, car has manual box, so no R8 to change.

Not sure what to do next, other than book it into a dealer or auto electrican.

 

Paul,

The fault that is causing F67 to clear can be in any of the loads supplied by F67 (see my earlier post) or in any of the wiring downstream of F67.

First, I would determine which loads powered by F67 that you have in you particular car. These may include:

- Vacuum Module, located under the battery tray (in early production cars only). It looks like it should have three small connectors with a couple wires each.

1. Active security sounder is located behind the front drivers wheel arch liner. It has a six-way black connector (with four wires).

2. Dip beam relay R9, located in the power distribution fuse box on the drivers front wheel.

3. Transit Isolation Relay, exact location not stated in JTIS but probably very close to the battery.

4. TCM Relay R9, located in power distribution fuse box on drivers front wheel well (automatic transmission cars only).

5. Voice activation control module, located in trunk LH rear.

Assuming you don't have voice activation, the suspect circuits are 1, 2, and 3 listed above (although the wiring may be in place for circuits 4 and 5 as well and this wiring could potentially be responsible for the fault).

I would suggest temporarily removing R9 and disconnecting the Active Security Sounder and Transit Isolation Relay. With these loads removed / diconnected, see if Fuse F67 still clears. If so, you may have a pinched wire somewhere. If not, reconnect loads 1, 2 and 3 - one at a time - to determine which load is causing F67 to clear.

Hopefully, the fault is in some easy-to-reach module.

Please report how the hunt-for-the-fault is progressing!

Mark

 

Wow, Thanks Mark, I'll give that a go, and post back the results.

Regards

Paul

 

Paul,

You should also verify if you do or do not have a Vacuum Module. JTIS does not say what VINs are considered "early production", but yours being a 2001 may have it and that's yet another possible cause of your problem.