Replaced the left rear reluctor ring which was throwing a code, but now I'm getting C1145, C1155, C1165 and C1175. These are codes for the individual wheel sensors which i'm sure didn't all go bad at once. ABS light and DTC Not Available are on. I took it out for a drive today and it began to buck violently and I barely made it home. Feels like the engine is cutting in and out repeatedly in time with a flickering light on the dashboard. Turn it off and start it up again and the chassis codes are still there, but the ABS light and DTC Not Available are off. Idles perfectly until I let the clutch out and start to move. Take it out again and it repeats the symptoms. Can't imagine that it's related to the ABS problem codes, but would appreciate any ideas you can offer.

Thanks!

 

You should also know that in the past two months the following have been replaced in pursuit of vacuum leaks::

• IMT Seals
• Intake manifold gaskets (upper and lower)
• Vacuum hoses (the usual suspects) and PCV Valve
• Brake booster (could it have gone bad already?)

 

max224, keep in mind that all 4 of the wheel speed sensors generate their own voltage. So, there is no source voltage to affect all 4 through a common wire. This then pushes the problem to the ABS module. Just to ask a silly question, but when the car is bucking, does the speedo drop to zero (like the car is stopped) and then jump back up to the correct speed when it seems to run fine? This is sounding more like you are either losing power to the ABS module or the ABS module has an internal fault and it is causing the ABS system to engage on its own because it is seeing various wheel speed sensors come and go. If the speedo is remaining up at the correct speed, then we know you are only losing 1 wheel speed sensor at a time. You lose 2 or more, then the speedo will drop to zero. May want to check the tightness of the plug going to the ABS module. If that is loose, then that can cause these indications.

 

I know if you start the car with two wheels off the ground, you will get codes for all four wheel speed sensors. Did you do this? There is the possibility these codes may be a red herring.

 

Thanks for your suggestions, maybe this will help narrow down the problem;

• I checked the connection to the ABS module and it was tight.
• Didn't at any time start the car with two wheels off the ground.
• Took it out for a drive; speedometer reads correctly and seems generally unaffected by the bucking.
• Engine revs okay when not under load. When you hold the gas pedal steady the car continues to buck.
• One of two "trouble lights" in the speedometer flickers on and off while the car is bucking.
• Pushing down on the gas pedal seems to cut the engine off entirely until you release the pedal after which it begins bucking again.
• Fuel pressure is 53-55 psi the entire time.
• NO codes except for P1000. and no ABS light.

I'm beginning to think that this may be a problem with the MAP sensor or throttle body since it seems to be fuel/electrical in nature. Any thoughts?