New owner of a 2006 x-type sort 3.0 awd and figure my first order of business should be to change/refresh all fluids. Car has 85,000 miles and so far i have decided on doing:

1. oil

2. transmission

3.brake

4. transfer case

5 . differential (does the car only have a rear ? )

6. powersteering

Is there any that i am missing , how about any other service items that are best done at 85,000 miles.

I am getting this car ready for my wife and daughter to share so i would like to get all the basic reliability items taken care of

thanks

 

This will cover the transfer case.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...change-124701/

And no you do not need sealant tape on the drain plug.

 

Check to see if there are any oil leaks around the cam cover gaskets and spark plug wells. Use OE Jaguar parts for greatest longevity.

Oil fouling of the coil units can cause misfires that can damage or destroy the catalytic converters if left unattended.

Many DTCs occur due to a failing or weak battery, so if there is any doubt about the age or condition of the battery, replace it prior to any symptoms.

 

Ty

This will likely be one of the more difficult items to do but probbly the most important

 

It's actually incredibly easy. Here's a complete list of things you need if you don't want to go the valve way.

*Forgot to add a drain pan!*

*Jack saddle pads are recommended, but optional. They will protect your car from damage by the jack/jack stand saddle.*

1-75w140 Gear Oil (I use Amsoil's Severe Gear 75w140)https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...?code=SVOQT-EA






2-a pair of high and safe jacks




3-a pair of "SUV" jackstands




4-Stock scissor jack to get the car up enough to use the other jacks.





5-Hand pump for oil (this one screws right onto the gear oil bottle, it's perfect)




6-3/8 breaker bar


7-Wheel chocks


*Always set the hand-brake tightly and use firmly placed wheel chocks before lifting*

A-Lift the left side a little bit to access the transfer case "drain" plug. Take plug out with breaker bar (it isn't very tight at all).

B-Lower car then lift the right side fairly high to get as much oil out as possible.

C-Lower right side.

D-Now lift left side to maximum allowed height of jacks and jack stands I linked to (it will require moving from jack to jack, bit by bit, it's easy stuff though).

E-Once at max safe height, pump in gear oil (I used Amsoil's Severe Gear 75w 140) till it starts to overflow from the "drain" hole.

F-Start to thread the "drain" plug by hand, then finish it off with the breaker bar (just get it nice and snug, do not make it super tight, they call for about 15ft lbs).

Lower the car and take it for a spin!

 

It sounds scary, but it really isn't.

Here's some perspective-

 

The height to jack the car up is 21 inches at the door sill. This will tilt it enough one way to drain the case, and the other way to make a fill to overflow Just about right.

 

so this weekend i began my fluid refresh and started with the rear transfer case, went pretty well .

as far as filling was concerned i was able to attach a 3 foot piece of clear tubing to a funnel and snake through the wheel well , over a metal bar and into the diff. this method allowed for a comple gravity fill as the hose either travelled down or over.

to drain i rigged another 3 foot hose to a small shop vac and was able to get all of the fluid out

original fluid looked decent , suprisingly clear. regardless of that i flushed first time with 25%motor flush 75% lucas synthetic 75-140.

i drained and refilled twice more with a full fill of lucas synthetic 75-140 ( no motor flush 2nd and third time)

and on the fourth fill i filled with 75-140 royal purple.

the above method was likely overkill but considering the car is new to me with 85,000 miles i would rather have a solid baseline.


also flushed the brake fluid which didnt go quite so well. fluid used was petosin super dot 4 from amazon

first caliper in and already had a snapped bleeder valve, used fair amount of pb blaster and a 24 hour sit and the other 3 opened up just fine .

Once open i hooked up my bleeder bottles and pumped in all new fluid (except for the caliper with broke bleeder)

while doing the rear diff i ran the car in drive on the lift to circulate the fluid. this caused the ABS light and check engine light to come on. After hooking up my scantron the codes came back as wheel speed sensor. I had to erease them 3 times to get them to stay cleared. but on the third erase both lights stayed off.

Thinking of tackling the transmission fluid next!!