What’s up guys i have a problem on my 2006 Xtype VDP edition with the 3.0 liter motor. I remember the heat would be super hot when turned up all the way to 89 degrees. Now it feels hot for a few seconds then turns to barely lukewarm heat. All the blowers are working. (Face ,feet,defrost etc). Just not getting hot like before. My temp gauge on the dash is showing normal. Coolant reservoir is full. I noticed today while I was turning the heat on and off to see if I can get it hot again. That the ac was draining clean water. Like in the summer. Didn’t notice that the other day because it snowed here. My mechanic put it on his high quality scan tool. And only code P1647 came up. Which is an O2 sensor which he already ordered for me. Any hp
is greatly appreciated

 

Has your mechanic a Jaguar / LandRover IDS or SDD? Without it's impossible to analyze via the diag tool way, I think.

It's important to read the Climate Controle Module (CCM / ATC).

I remember there's a damper for switching / mixing cold and hot air. Three (same) actuators for dampers are behind the glove box.
(Higer grade climate systems have two additional actuators under the dash board.)

But also the dampers itself can be broken. (Or the CCM itself.)


catfondler

 

you may have air in the system

 

Sounds like lack of water volume able to pass through the heater core.

Hot when you first start the fan, but with lack of effective fluid volume passing through the core, you are cooling the core faster than the water can replenish through it.

Your heater core could have a partial airlock, or may have some sediment blocking it as it sits fairly low in the water circuit.
Either way, you might start with flushing and checking heater core for effective through flow before priming and testing again.
Also check for any collapsed hose, or a bulged hose where it is clamping to a fitting (corrosion at a junction might cause a restriction point).

If heater core is OK and hoses appear fine, it might be a symptom of a failing water pump, which might not be showing up much in engine temp readings during your winter depending on your run times.

 

"Coolant reservoir is full." but suddenly air in the system?

Ok, nothing is impossible.

 

i had a pin hole leak in my radiator , witch was not noticeable till one day i saw a few drops on the floor ,my reservoir barely moved but was enough to have the same symptoms you have ,but yours maybe different just my 2 cents ,when the car was at a light it would be Luke warm then when i take of it got warmer

 

My heat doesn’t get hotter on higher rpm’s. Took it out on the highway and tried. No difference

 

NYC, looking like you have a blockage in your heater core. Odds are, you will need to drain the coolant and then using an air source, you will need to blow air through the heater core to see if it is blocked. Lots of air, we missed the problem. LIttle bit of air, blockage proven. To clear the blockage, the best thing I have found is what is called a "water hammer". In short, you take your air source and get a few ounces of water in the tube and then you blast the air into the heater core. The weight of the water will strike the blockage and "hammer it". Sometimes it will break loose on the first attempt. Sometimes you have to give it a number of hits. If this doesn't free the blockage, then you are left with replacing the heater core. You can use up to about 100 psi air on the heater core. You want to use the highest pressure you dare as that gives the best hammering effect (do you drop a hammer on a nail or do you swing with some force to drive the nail?). Do not be afraid to hammer from both sides. Whatever is in there will break free and sometimes hitting it from the opposite side breaks it up and allows it to come out easier.

 

Hello Thermo. I’m also thinking it’s a clogged heater core. I read a post on here about a week ago. I think u actually responded to it with a way to check if the heater core is clogged up. Had something to do with getting the engine up to normal temperatures. Then feeling some hoses that go in to the motor, radiator and heater core. Looked like a T junction with 3 hoses. Can you please tell me exactly what to check and how exactly to check it. I got the o2 sensor also. Just waiting for my mechanic to have time for me to drop off my Jag. Thx again

 

NYC, if you look, you should see 2 hoses going through the firewall for the heater core. They are side by side as I recall. What you are going to do is to start the engine and get it up to temp. You then are going to turn your heat on full blast (full heat, full air flow). If things are working like they should, you should notice a very slight temperature difference between these two hoses. If it is plugged, you will notice a large difference. The other thing you can do is to follow the hoses back as far as you can to find a connection that you can take apart that will be easy to get to. From there, disconnect both lines (you will probably lose a fair amount of coolant doing this), and then using an air source, blow some air through it. Initially you will get some coolant out of the other hose. If the core is clear, you should get a nice jet of coolant coming out. If it is blocked, you will get just a trickle or so of coolant. If it trickles, then start blowing back and forth on the tubes until you feel it let go (this will be obvious). From there, re-attach the hoses and refill with coolant. You will have your heat back. If you blow these lines and find that they are flowing freely, then you are most likely looking at a water pump that is on its way out.

 

after you have to burp it on a hill