I would like to gut my cats (as I have been getting the codes since I got the car), but have been postponing it since the car runs ok. It is not the O2 sensors.

I have been reading various methods that folks use to do this, but am not really looking forward to it.

I am planning to go in through the side, as Dr. Dome has recommended, but wonder if anyone has any other opinions. I'd love to go in through the top, but fear that I might bust an exhaust manifold bolt...

I am not quite clear about his method either, but hopefully it will be clear when I am under there.

Not looking forward to dropping the subframe...

Thanks for any ideas or opinions.

 

Combination of bottom, side, and top to get it out. Pull the manifold and cat as one. Pull the upper intake plenum to give you room to get it out of the top. Its tight but I managed to get it done and put headers in its place. It's not fun but it's manageable and you're most certainly going to need some extra hands. None of my manifold bolts broke for me but I soaked them in rust penetrate everyday for a week leading up to dismantle. Everyone will have a different experience but best of luck.

 

I am considering pulling mine as well as I have heard that it is a severe drain on the engine output. Does anyone know the HP gains from a cat delete? Also, would you have to reflash the computer?

 

Thanks X-Type mentality!

I'd rather go that route if I can.

Some research points to a penetrating oil that is way better than the others, so I may start putting that on for a few days before I do it. It's a daily driver, so I hope I can reach back there without taking the intake off, but maybe that is too much to ask for.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/89...se-winner.html

Lemons Racer, it is my understanding that if the cats are in good shape there is not much difference, but if it is clogged, you may see a big jump. However, as a precaution, I would recommend this for an endurance racer, because if something goes wrong during your race (an intake vibrates a little loose or something), and it starts running rich, then the cats could go bad during the race. That would be a preventable disaster.

Hopefully more knowledgeable folks can chime in with more info.

 

'GUTTING' the cataverters will not prevent DTCs for catalyst efficiency below threshold.
The only reason I would do anything like that is if they were CLOGGED and not flowing properly.

You can get the the clamp nuts with a 15mm T handle ratchet wrench from UNDER the car.



bob

 

Very cool wrench, something I need to add to my garage. I was wondering though, how do you get it back on with that?

Also, great information about the penetrating oils. I've always preferred PB Blaster over liquid wrench, but it may be time to switch.

 

The T handle wrench is a RATCHETING BOX WRENCH.
The 12 point (black colored inner) only ratchets in one direction.
To turn the nut/bolt in the other direction you flip it over and 'pump' the handle.

Pull down or push up!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

We all got one in the Jag shop when the X-Type came out in 2001. We always had to drop the subframe and the cataverters needed to be removed.

DEEP flex sockets in 15mm and 13mm are also required for other parts of the car.



bob

 

Good to know, thanks Bob. I have universal joints for my sockets bit not the deep flex sockets. Looks like I'll be shopping soon.

 

Hi Bob, yes, I think my cats may be clogged. I feel that there is a lack of power off the line, and when I drive up steep hills.

There are no regulations involving cats where I live, so I am just going to gut them and add those extenders in the sensor holes.

The only codes I have left are for the cats and one that may involve the gas cap (unless it is also related to the cats).

Hopefully, this will improve my harsh shifts when I gun it, too. We will see.

I wish I had a garage full of tools. At this point I only have a trunk full of tools. (And various fluids.)