Question about intakes for '03 X-Type.
#1
Question about intakes for '03 X-Type.
Went and got it checked today. Shop said it was the worst smoke test they've seen. Upper and lower intakes need to be replaced. They quoted me $750.
Friends tell me they do good work, but after researching I found that it's around a 2 hour job. Can anyone refer me to an independent mechanic that doesn't charge as much?
Or is this something I can take a weekend and do on my own?
I already searched youtube but couldnt find a video for my year's model.
Thanks in advance!
Friends tell me they do good work, but after researching I found that it's around a 2 hour job. Can anyone refer me to an independent mechanic that doesn't charge as much?
Or is this something I can take a weekend and do on my own?
I already searched youtube but couldnt find a video for my year's model.
Thanks in advance!
#2
#4
There are 3 bolts on the back side of the intake next to the fire wall. 2 holding the wire loom and one straight down from the one on the drivers side. all should be 10mm bolt heads. also there is one under the throttle body about 3 inches. Another 10 mm bolt. the Plastic lines on top of the intake are push locks. Push down on them and use a pliers to hold down the inside clip and pull up on the plastic hose. and remember DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN the intake bolts. They will strip out.
Good luck,
The Dr!
Good luck,
The Dr!
#5
Here is a video for changing the intake manifold gaskets. The year of the car doesn't matter. Kind of fiddly, but if you are patient and use care, not exactly rocket science. Good luck!
Also, depending on just where the vacuum leak is, think about changing your IMT O-rings, brae booster check valve and the PCV hose. Plenty of info on that if you do a search here. Changing them all out might be $100 in parts and another 1/2 of your time.
Also, depending on just where the vacuum leak is, think about changing your IMT O-rings, brae booster check valve and the PCV hose. Plenty of info on that if you do a search here. Changing them all out might be $100 in parts and another 1/2 of your time.
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Finally done.
The upper and lower gaskets have all been replaced, which fixed the initial problem of the car's "jerkiness" every time I'd accelerate hard. Hopefully that's the only thing stopping it from passing the smog test.
Didn't change out the spark plugs because the first one i attempted wouldn't budge- probably seized already. And autozone didnt have the IMT o-rings for me to swap out.
All in all, it was a pretty easy job- made even easier by the helpful people that commented on here. Would've taken less time if i had powertools, but no biggie.
Thank you again to everyone for your input!
I'll see if any of the vids i took are worth posting later.
The upper and lower gaskets have all been replaced, which fixed the initial problem of the car's "jerkiness" every time I'd accelerate hard. Hopefully that's the only thing stopping it from passing the smog test.
Didn't change out the spark plugs because the first one i attempted wouldn't budge- probably seized already. And autozone didnt have the IMT o-rings for me to swap out.
All in all, it was a pretty easy job- made even easier by the helpful people that commented on here. Would've taken less time if i had powertools, but no biggie.
Thank you again to everyone for your input!
I'll see if any of the vids i took are worth posting later.
#13
xtypeguy,
Should have replaced those spark plugs while you were down there. Will save you lots of headache down the road. Otherwise good job getting it all done on your own.
Dr. Dome,
I wish someone told me not to over-tighten the intake bolts I messed up 2 of them while performing the same surgery as xtypeguy. Is there any advice as to what we can do for the stripped parts the bolts insert into?
Meaning is there any way to get just the brass part that is depicted in the picture?
Should have replaced those spark plugs while you were down there. Will save you lots of headache down the road. Otherwise good job getting it all done on your own.
Dr. Dome,
I wish someone told me not to over-tighten the intake bolts I messed up 2 of them while performing the same surgery as xtypeguy. Is there any advice as to what we can do for the stripped parts the bolts insert into?
Meaning is there any way to get just the brass part that is depicted in the picture?
Last edited by tiny_jag; 01-28-2015 at 11:09 PM. Reason: spelling/grammar
#14
The problem with that is the brass fittings are not what strip, the plastic intake strips. The only fix I could think of was JB welding them back in but didn't like that idea, and I got lucky and found an X in one of the local junk yards and got the lower intake for less than 20 bucks. Btw the lower intake is two pieces, each bank has its own part so if you only over tightened say two on the "front" side then you only need that side of the intake. I, of course, had one strip on each side so I needed both. I had no idea its wasn't one piece until I went to take it out of the x in the yard haha.
#15
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If you strip out the bolt holes, check out Fastenal. They have some pretty trick products. If you are in metal, they have sleeves that you can drill a slightly bigger hole and then tap that. Then you can screw in a sleeve that will have the correct size threads again and if you loc-tite it in, will also have a good seal too.
In the case of the plastic pieces, you would need to check into the pieces that they have. There are sleeves that you can get that you would need to oversize the hole slightly and then you slide the sleeve into the opening. The top of the sleeve is grooved on the outside and is also split on the sides. So, as you go to insert the bolt, it will force open the top of the sleeve which will cause the grooves on the outside to bite into the plastic (holding the sleeve in place) and then you can insert the bolt the rest of the way to get your secure junction back.
If I need to give a few links, let me know. The pieces are not necessarily cheap (normally a few dollars a bolt hole), but it is definitely cheaper than having to get a new part.
In the case of the plastic pieces, you would need to check into the pieces that they have. There are sleeves that you can get that you would need to oversize the hole slightly and then you slide the sleeve into the opening. The top of the sleeve is grooved on the outside and is also split on the sides. So, as you go to insert the bolt, it will force open the top of the sleeve which will cause the grooves on the outside to bite into the plastic (holding the sleeve in place) and then you can insert the bolt the rest of the way to get your secure junction back.
If I need to give a few links, let me know. The pieces are not necessarily cheap (normally a few dollars a bolt hole), but it is definitely cheaper than having to get a new part.
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tiny_jag (01-29-2015)
#16
Has anyone found a source for those brass inserts?
I have the same issue and after all the work, would hate to find out I’m now looking at a vacuum leak but don’t want to replace the manifold itself if there’s a way to replace the insert and suitable bolt. I have an S-type of the same year and am hoping there has been an aftermarket part I just haven’t found. Apologies for potentially trying to revive a dead thread but was thinking it was easier than trying to link to this one in a new thread.
Last edited by rallyStype; 04-07-2019 at 02:48 PM. Reason: Additional information
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