I searched these forums, but wasn't getting an answer on this. I just got an X-type with the 2.5L engine and it is due for an oil change, but I want to make sure it gets what it needs, and I don't necessarily trust the Oil Change Shops opinion. So what kind of oil should this car have?

And is there anything else I need to know before taking it in to get the oil changed at a standard Oil Change type shop?

 

Oil weight/grade etc is spec'd in the owners manual.

I won't suggest an oil brand or anything, as it turns into a 15 page thread. Buy quality stuff. Personally I don't use an oil change shop. The oil filter on the X is in kind of a dumb spot, but nothing special about it. I liked the K&N filters with the nut on top, makes getting it off easier. Use some cardboard from the filter box to drape over the downpipe and deflect the draining oil when you pull the filter.

Being a new-to-you car, if you can, try to DIY this one. Then while you are under there, take a good look around at everything to get an idea of the shape of the underbody and components.

 

i have a 2.5L 2003 model and i changed my oil with castrol oil 5W 30. i think this is what is written on the oil filler cap.

 

Thanks for the advice. As I would love to do the change myself the first time, I am under a time constraint, and have to leave town in the morning and don't want to leave without an oil change. I don't have the time to do it myself, and just don't want to screw anything up.

I will use 5W-30. Does it need to be synthetic or anything?

Or will conventional oil be fine?

 

This is a very important aspect because if you do not drape cardboard over the downpipe, you will smell oil for about 3k miles. It happened to me, and it was one of the worst things ever because whenever I would turn on the a/c it smelled like burning oil. Another way to get oil off is simply to just clean the bottom of the engine after the oil change, but Chris X's technique would probably work better.

 

i have a beeter 1994 saturn sl2 with the cheepest brand of oil on the shelf
i change it at every 5000k it runs like brand new
it has 268,000 miles on it
my uncles 2002 2.5 x-type has 231000 miles on it ,runs brand new
he also uses the cheepest store brand oil and changes it every 5000k

just my opinion oil is oil if you change it regulary there should be no issue

 

I asked the dealer this same question when I bought mine. Jaguar recommends Castrol GTX 5W-30 for the X-type. I believe that is for the 3.0 and the 2.5. I have the 2.5. Also it is worth noting that you want to use a good quality filter. I buy my filters directly from Jaguar and change every 3K miles. The car will take apx. 5.5 quarts of oil with a filter change.

 

Please keep in mind that a lot of the "off-brand" oils are really just big name oils in a different bottle. There is one difference though. The off-brand oils have a different detergent package (mix) than the big name oils. For example, the Advance Auto Parts oil is really Havoline oil. If you do some research, you can find out who makes what oil that is off-brand. You can save some money and as long as you stick to a more strict oil changing schedule (ie, every 5000 miles vice going out to 7500 or even 10000 mile intervals), you will be fine as the build up will be very minimal. The detergents are what prevent build up inside of the engine and wear out over time.

As for one brand over another, that is like asking what your favorite color is. Everyone has an opinion and most will argue the point. If you want some good information that is fairly unbiased yet has some proof behind it, check out - Bob is the Oil Guy. he has done a lot of research into this and done his own analysis of oils before and after use.

 

Make sure they have the correct filter, and yours crankcase should take 6.1 quarts of oil, like mine. A ford filter will fit, I think it is number 44, but don't rely on that.

 

I've tried M1 5W-30, M1 10W-30, M1 5W-40 TDT, and M1 0W-30 fuel economy oil.

Occasionally, I do a UOA (used oil analysis). Sorry, but I don't have the specifics to post here. They were generally unremarkable and all oils provided fairly good results.

The bottom line, M1 5W-40 TDT Turbo Diesel Truck, was the best oil. With a clear advantage in smooth operation, low end power and stunning UOA results.

While it seems odd that I run a truck oil in my car, the fact is that modern oils have fewer additives due to current regulations for catalytic converter reasons. In fact, ZDDP, the classic anti wear additive is down to 500-600 PPM now, even in Mobil 1.

However, the TDT oil contains 1100, 1200 PPM ZDDP, just like God intended. (1200 PPM is the number that is proven best). It's no wonder that TDT, a very robust oil provides such good results in everything I use it in.

Edit: I'm in hot and steamy South Florida. The TDT oils are not "high Zinc". 1100PPM is a "normal" number from 5 years ago. And, the 2.5L in my car is NOT a roller cam engine. (remember, roller camshaft followers are used and often "required" when ZDDP is low).

 

There is no good reason to a high zinc oil in these cars but lots of bad ones.

Use what's in the owners handbook and resist the temptation to second guess the OEM.

 

I run the same TDT in my Rover due to the better detergent qualities in an engine that is a known sludge factory. Good stuff, although sometimes i go with Shell Rotella since it is a little cheaper. If you use diesel oil make sure it is dual rated.

I don't know if it is really warranted in the 2.5/3.0, but sounds like you've had good results. Kinda think it might be on the heavy side, at least for the winter.

And synthetic won't hose up your VVT.

 

I'm curious as to what "bad" things are going to happen to my perfectly running old car, with well North of 100,000 miles on it? If you are thinking I'll contaminate the cats, think again. The car was spec'd for oils with more ZDDP than is currently available in today's oils.

I am fully unaware of any downside to proper levels of ZDDP.

 

I was not aware that X types cats were designed with 1200ppm of zinc in mind. You're also saying that this engine is not equipped with roller cam and followers?

With the average consumer unaware of the difference, is there any experience in the field with high rates of 'flat cams'?

 

Just for my own curiosity, I found that the 2001 X type owners manual specifies API SJ oils, yet the 2008 version specifies API SL I suppose as the newer standards were introduced.

Given that most oils are now API SM do many owners search out older SJ or SL oils?

 

From Wiki "Example; in API SG rated oils, this was at the 1200-1300 ppm level for zincs and phosphorus, where the current SM is under 600 ppm. This reduction in anti-wear chemicals in oil has caused pre-mature failures of camshafts and other high pressure bearings in many older automobiles and has been blamed for pre-mature failure of the oil pump drive/cam position sensor gear that is meshed with camshaft gear in some modern engines."

Some more info you might like: However, results of catalytic converter poisoning by phosphorus are inconclusive: tests may show poisoning at some times and not at other times. In fact, a test being developed for the upcoming ILSAC GF-3 spec shows phosphorus-containing oils are less likely to poison catalysts than nonphosphorus oils are.

And of course, the SJ oil specified for the X-Type allowed 1000ppm zddp. Why not use exactly what the OEM wanted in the first place? 1000PPM!