Restart dead X-Type 2006
Have acquired a 2006 X-Type Estate. Battery was dead for months. I have charged the battery, but will not start ... not even a click from the starter. ECM not talking to tranny; starter?
How do I reprogram?
How do I reprogram?
If you try to identify electrically based faults in an X type with anything other than a fully charged, undamaged battery you will struggle. I suggest that the chances of your battery being suitable after sitting fully discharged for several months are extremely low
. It will be irreparably damaged internally.
You need a new, fully charged battery and a code reader for the (almost!) inevitable fault codes if there are electrical faults. You shouldn't need to reprogram anything except the windows
Big Healey looks good
You need a new, fully charged battery and a code reader for the (almost!) inevitable fault codes if there are electrical faults. You shouldn't need to reprogram anything except the windows

Big Healey looks good
Last edited by astromorg; Feb 9, 2025 at 11:02 AM.
You have to press the brake pedal to operate a solenoid that releases the selector to allow it to come out of Park. If you are, then there is a Not-in-Park microswitch operated by the selector lever that if broken, will prevent the brake system operating the solenoid to allow gear selection. If not that, the solenoid may be U/S. or the brake switches - note there are two of them - one 'makes' and the other 'breaks'.
Last edited by astromorg; Feb 10, 2025 at 04:42 PM.
Sometimes you can watch a multimeter connected direct to the battery as you try to start and see the voltage drop alarmingly - i.e. so low that various things won't function (relays, computers, ...). New battery needed most likely.
The Healey looks great!
The Healey looks great!
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Floatcat, unrelated to this thread but I saw on your intro thread you were looking for a source for used parts. In no particular order:
welshent.com sells new and used Jag parts
jagbits.com also sells new and used Jag parts
car-parts.com does a nationwide search for your part and breaks it down by distance. I just plugged in a Maine zip code from my past and it says there is currently a Jag wagon at a scrap yard in Brunswick.
eBay
Also lucky you, SNG Barratt is next door in NH if you need new parts.
I'll look for that Jag wagon around the Old Port when I in Maine in a few weeks.
welshent.com sells new and used Jag parts
jagbits.com also sells new and used Jag parts
car-parts.com does a nationwide search for your part and breaks it down by distance. I just plugged in a Maine zip code from my past and it says there is currently a Jag wagon at a scrap yard in Brunswick.
eBay
Also lucky you, SNG Barratt is next door in NH if you need new parts.
I'll look for that Jag wagon around the Old Port when I in Maine in a few weeks.
Floatcat, for your problem, we need to see where your problem lies. It can be a few things (PATS issue, bad battery, bad battery cables, bad starter). First things first, replace the battery (which it sounds like you have already). But, before doing any of the diagnostics I am going to mention below, ensure the battery is put on a charger and is ensured to be at 100%.
Now, with a fully charged battery, attempt to start the car. While the key is in the START position (do not be afraid to hold it there, I actually want you to hold it there for 10-15 seconds), look down at the center console next to the e-brake lever. There should be a piece of black plastic with a coin holder in it. At the top of it is an LED. Does this light up as you attempt to start the car? If yes, then your problem is with the PATS system and for some reason, it is not recognizing you key. If you have a second key, attempt the same thing with that key. If this is the case, let us know and we can take things from there.
Now, this is going to need to be a little time sensitive, but after holding the key in the START position for 15ish seconds, step out of the car and cup your hands OVER!!!!!!!!! the battery terminals. Does one (or both) feel hotter than the surrounding metal? If yes, replace both battery cables (if one is failed, the other is not far behind most likely). ONLY TOUCH!!!!!! the battery terminal after this check if: 1) you are confident that the battery terminal is not radiating heat, or 2) you have used a thermometer or some other device and verified it not being hot. Battery cables getting hot on this model car is not something unusual and just making sure you don't burn yourself. This check could cause them terminal to get very hot.
The next check is going to more than likely require 2 people. 1 person holding a multimeter, the second attempting to start the car. The person at the multimeter is going to hold the red lead to the battery + lead post (not on the cable or the terminal of the cable) and hold the black lead to the negative - post of the battery (again, on the post, not the wiring). Ensure the multimeter is set to the 20 VDC scale. You should see 12.6 VDC indicated on the multimeter. Now, have the second person attempt to start the car (turn to the START position and hold there for 5 seconds). The multimeter should have gone to 1 of 3 voltages. The first being 12.0-12.6 VDC. If you see this, odds are, you have a bad battery cable. The exception to this is if the voltage remains at 12.6 VDC, then we are most likely looking at something with the ECM not telling the starter to energize. The second voltage range is 11.0-12.0 VDC. This would indicate that your starter is failed most likely barring a seized engine. The final voltage is less than 11.0 VDC. This would indicate that you have either too small of a battery installed or the battery has an issue.
One final check that you can do is leave the driver's door open and watch the dome light as you start the car. Does the dome light remain as bright as it normally is, dims slightly, or does it go out completely? Staying normally bright says no power is making it to the starter and we have a wiring issue on our hands, the light dimming says the starter is getting power, but is not capable of rolling the motor, and lastly if the light goes out, we have a power wire issue going to the cab of the car and this is raising hell with everything else.
Hopefully these easy checks gets you towards a fix so you can enjoy the kitty on the road.
Now, with a fully charged battery, attempt to start the car. While the key is in the START position (do not be afraid to hold it there, I actually want you to hold it there for 10-15 seconds), look down at the center console next to the e-brake lever. There should be a piece of black plastic with a coin holder in it. At the top of it is an LED. Does this light up as you attempt to start the car? If yes, then your problem is with the PATS system and for some reason, it is not recognizing you key. If you have a second key, attempt the same thing with that key. If this is the case, let us know and we can take things from there.
Now, this is going to need to be a little time sensitive, but after holding the key in the START position for 15ish seconds, step out of the car and cup your hands OVER!!!!!!!!! the battery terminals. Does one (or both) feel hotter than the surrounding metal? If yes, replace both battery cables (if one is failed, the other is not far behind most likely). ONLY TOUCH!!!!!! the battery terminal after this check if: 1) you are confident that the battery terminal is not radiating heat, or 2) you have used a thermometer or some other device and verified it not being hot. Battery cables getting hot on this model car is not something unusual and just making sure you don't burn yourself. This check could cause them terminal to get very hot.
The next check is going to more than likely require 2 people. 1 person holding a multimeter, the second attempting to start the car. The person at the multimeter is going to hold the red lead to the battery + lead post (not on the cable or the terminal of the cable) and hold the black lead to the negative - post of the battery (again, on the post, not the wiring). Ensure the multimeter is set to the 20 VDC scale. You should see 12.6 VDC indicated on the multimeter. Now, have the second person attempt to start the car (turn to the START position and hold there for 5 seconds). The multimeter should have gone to 1 of 3 voltages. The first being 12.0-12.6 VDC. If you see this, odds are, you have a bad battery cable. The exception to this is if the voltage remains at 12.6 VDC, then we are most likely looking at something with the ECM not telling the starter to energize. The second voltage range is 11.0-12.0 VDC. This would indicate that your starter is failed most likely barring a seized engine. The final voltage is less than 11.0 VDC. This would indicate that you have either too small of a battery installed or the battery has an issue.
One final check that you can do is leave the driver's door open and watch the dome light as you start the car. Does the dome light remain as bright as it normally is, dims slightly, or does it go out completely? Staying normally bright says no power is making it to the starter and we have a wiring issue on our hands, the light dimming says the starter is getting power, but is not capable of rolling the motor, and lastly if the light goes out, we have a power wire issue going to the cab of the car and this is raising hell with everything else.
Hopefully these easy checks gets you towards a fix so you can enjoy the kitty on the road.
This is the 18th post in this thread, but anyone following it in the future to try to solve a similar problem in their X type knows only that it might be a relay, but which one is still open to speculation
Floatcat, can we please have a bit of feedback about what you've discovered to help our own education to help us all help others in the future
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Olonokis
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