Guys I'm working my way round the chassis wit grinder and paint and at the stage where i cant get into tight spots to cut out any rot. Im thinking of using a rust converter as a base but unsure how reliable these are and how long they last.

Can anybody help that's had experience and maybe recommend a product?

 

Has anybody used Aquasteel?

 

Everything I own has rust, even on my body!

I have been testing products for many years. Por-15 is a great product but dries very hard. It can lose its connection to the metal and rust will crawl under it.

Rustoleum will lose its grip here in a year. Testing it with some harder mixed in now.

The product I have been using for the last few years and love is Zero Rust. $75 a gallon in red and $100 in color. Always brushed or rolled two coats. Testing spraying on a trailer soon.

If you looking for a thin paint to pour down into places a two-part epoxy primer does a good job on sealing the metal.

Prep is the trick to making any of this to work.

I like Fluid Film inside of panels and doors but washes off if exposed to the elements, but I still use it too.

Hate hate hate hate RUST!

 

Hi Larry

Tell me about it. I've seen videos on Youtube for POR-15 it looked good, think you need to do 3 stages though??? main problem is getting it shipped to the UK was about £150 might as well buy a new car...!
Mixed thoughts on rustolium, its available but has differing reviews here. Ive invested in a ltr of Aquasteel its a marine water based solution that's used on boats so I'm hoping it will stand the test of time on the kitty..
I know what you mean about prep, spend a day on my back grinding away, came out like one of the cast of the black and white minstrel show...
Ill take some piccies as I'm ding it and maybe come back to it in 12 months will be an interesting exercise.

 

Hi i know i am new here but the only way to treet rust is to remove it try the bilthamber site i use nothing else their stuff is used on the oil gas rigs so good enough for me to use cheers for reading Roadsider

 

Hi Guys,

I think it is good to look into the products used on the offshore oil rigs and marine products. Many times the costs and amount you need to buy are too much for me. I did find a product that you can apply underwater for the oil rigs. You could buy a new Jag for that cost!

Remember the two-part epoxy primer has tested very good, low cost and should be easy to find on your side of the pond.

 

I have been removing what rot I can get too but there are parts that I just cant reach that I'm going to have to treat. I think the general idea is to get the balance right between paying for treatment and wear and tear on the car. The Bilthamber products are available in the UK and are quite competitively priced I'm looking to keep the budget at around £20 or so per product. Will be treating the bare metal if I can clean up enough with a coat of Zink 182 which is easily available and relatively low cost here, then top coating with waxoil for the underneath, but I'm conscious Ill need a converter for some of the hard to reach places including inside the chassis and bodywork subframe with a spray action... Keep the comments coming as any info is relative at this point and if you've had results I'm keen to know..

 

With bare metal i would give it a coat of bilthamber selfetching weld through primer use this all the time brilliant stuff as for waxoil its ok but the bilthamber waxes are far better have used it on all my vehicles it works it will seal joints gets in to welded areas stops rust getting a foot hold but it depends on how long you expect to keep the vehicle and cost and time people say its not worth it and buy another but you can buy one that looks good then 8 months down the road you are back to square one me i just get it done do it properly do it once and forget it thanks for reading Roadsider

 

I'm hoping to get about 5 years out of it or until electric cars become firmly established. Also bare in mind the chassis has seen better days with rot on it now. I'm in that conundrum where I've sank so much £s on new parts and time into it, logic would denote just getting a newer car. I'm trying to get on top of it all but every time I spend and repair an outstanding job something else goes. Drove to Chester yesterday and the car dropped into limp mode on the way back twice. I've not plugged the reader into it to see if there's any fault codes showing but I restarted twice and it ran OK the second time. I can feel there's some vibration in the engine feels like dual fly wheel is my gut feeling and that's probably the bridge to far I think if it goes. Ill be off to the dealers to buy a new car. I've already got the wax oil it was all I could get my hands on in lock down so I'm just going to use it as a top coat after treating the rot with a converter, and or primer. I have heard to mix a little used engine oil into the mix to lengthen its life I don't know how true that one is?

 

The only thing I'd worry about with the rust converter is that its a chemical process with acid that goes something like Fe2O3 + 2 H3PO4 = 2 FePO4 + 3 H2O . If you don't get the right ratio of acid to rust, then you wind up with unspent acid deep in the crevass and it starts attacking the iron, something like Fe + H3PO4 = FePO4 + H2­. On the other hand, one of the byproducts is also water. If that water can't evaporate quickly enough, then you could wind up with more rust. It would seem to me that its fine to use rust converter on parts that are exposed and you can clean off any excess acid, but I worry about pouring or spraying acid into crevasses that you can't reach to clean out.

I'd also be anxious about trying to seal up a crevass with rust-encapsulating paint. If I was absolutely sure I could seal it up, maybe, but otherwise, I'd worry that I'd just be making it worse, such that water would still get in somewhere and then take longer to evaporate.

I would think that some of the rust-inhibiting penetrating oils like the Fluid-Film already mentioned might be a better option for crevasses since it would be inert, not really converting the existing rust or reacting with the metal, but preventing further formation. Yes, they wash out or evaporate over time, but then how difficult would it be to re-apply periodically, say once a year? Just tossing it out as an idea as I haven't tried specifically for crevasses. I've been using Gibbs Brand on bare metal suspension components on a restored Corvette (I'd lose points if I painted the parts). Re-applying annually and it works great. But I can't spray the stuff in body crevasses on the Corvette as it would soak into the back side of the fiberglass and ruin the paint. That would NOT be a concern on a steel-bodied car.

 

I've watched some of the videos on line and what the specialist firms seem to do is have a hot air blower on the vehicle of 24 +hrs after treating with converters. I wont be going that extreme but I've commandeered daughters GHDs before when spraying the wheels... It will be virtually impossible to measure the ratio for acid as you cant even see some of the crevices that I need to get down, hence looking to use a pre made converter, in theory...
Again I've covered the bare metal with a HCF paint but I don't think it will hold it back as chips and the force of water when driving will penetrate it, but time will tell. I'm going to have a stab at these solutions I've already got for now, and see how they've performed next summer. A combination of all the remedies might do the job who knows?
There's a thick plastic type sealant Jag use on the inside floor, that I wouldn't mind finding out what that is, completely solid and air / water tight.

 

The problem with solid and hard coatings is that water will find its way under it as it is not flexible and will crack. The rust will expand under the hard surface and crawl along.

My plan is to control the water coming off the windshield and improve the drainage from the wiper arm valley.

Then pour a two-part epoxy primer down into the rockers so it flows in the manner that the water does when it gets in there. After it drys I will spray more primer in drilled holes.

The final step is to use Fluid-Film to seal it all up.

 

Marhyde

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