(2002)xtype underneath car rust,how to deal with it?
#1
(2002)xtype underneath car rust,how to deal with it?
I have 2002 x type and recently i am assuming the rust is forming only underneath the car it may have been my fault for not rustproofing it but it is there....where can i go to get rid of the rust...if so what price range am i looking at?
thank you for your advice in advance.
thank you for your advice in advance.
#2
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Any paint shop should be able to hook you up. The problem is not the fix so much as the time required to get rid of all the rust. The rust needs to be removed before you put more paint on top of the metal. If you don't, you are trapping the oxides under the paint and only hiding the growing problem from your eyes. So, a bunch of time with either a sand blaster or wire wheel will be required to get rid of the rust. This all assumes the rust isn't too bad. If the rust has punctured the metal, then metal removal and weld repair will be required.
With the above being said, there are some special paints out there that can convert the rust into metal and it gets rid of the oxygen in the metal. But, normally this paint isn't that strong and would therefore need a second more durable layer of paint put on top of it.
Talk with a local body shop and see what they say. But, something in the range of $1000 of work will not surprise me. If you can get the paint and do the work yourself, then you can probably get away for around $200.
With the above being said, there are some special paints out there that can convert the rust into metal and it gets rid of the oxygen in the metal. But, normally this paint isn't that strong and would therefore need a second more durable layer of paint put on top of it.
Talk with a local body shop and see what they say. But, something in the range of $1000 of work will not surprise me. If you can get the paint and do the work yourself, then you can probably get away for around $200.
#3
Is the rust on the painted part of the body or underneath the on unibody and components?
I did my Jeep undercarriage by removing the rust with various tools - wire wheel on a drill, scotch brite type pad on a grinder, dremel for tight spots, and 5" sanding discs on a drill. Get as much as you can. With the X, a lift or at least some ramps would be needed. Some quality safety glasses are a must as well, and be prepared to hose yourself off in the driveway. But this can be done in a few hours for less than $50 in supplies.
Then, you could use naval jelly to help dissolve some rust, or go straight to a product like POR-15 or Eastwood Rust Encapsulator and coat the rusty areas. As Thermo suggested a top coat is not a bad idea. I use Rustoleum bedliner spray as a topcoat. It's about $7 a can, get 2 cans. Gives you a nice hard shell that will deflect stones and debris.
If the rust is on your paint, go to a body shop and have a pro do it. It is a Jaguar, after all.
I did my Jeep undercarriage by removing the rust with various tools - wire wheel on a drill, scotch brite type pad on a grinder, dremel for tight spots, and 5" sanding discs on a drill. Get as much as you can. With the X, a lift or at least some ramps would be needed. Some quality safety glasses are a must as well, and be prepared to hose yourself off in the driveway. But this can be done in a few hours for less than $50 in supplies.
Then, you could use naval jelly to help dissolve some rust, or go straight to a product like POR-15 or Eastwood Rust Encapsulator and coat the rusty areas. As Thermo suggested a top coat is not a bad idea. I use Rustoleum bedliner spray as a topcoat. It's about $7 a can, get 2 cans. Gives you a nice hard shell that will deflect stones and debris.
If the rust is on your paint, go to a body shop and have a pro do it. It is a Jaguar, after all.
#5
The rust is not on any painted area of the body..undercarige(no painted areas,it is on some of the components mufler ..etc...so im thinking about doing the work my self only problem i dont have a lift or a grinder(grinder is that machine used for sanding with that flat area?)...I have a drill tho,to get that naval stuff or that special paint to convert rust to metal where could i purchase this?and what would be the order of operations to carry out such a job.
thank you
thank you
#6
OK, I thought you were talking about the undercarriage. You can pick up a 4 1/2 inch grinder at Lowe's or Home Depot for around $40 or less. (Assuming you live in the US here...). They also carry the sanding/grinding wheels and supplies, as do automotive stores such as Autozone or Advance Auto or NAPA.
Naval jelly is sold at most automotive stores as well.
www.eastwood.com has a huge selection of tools and supplies for this type of job. I've used their products before and they are high quality. Here is the link for their page with "rust solutions" products: http://www.eastwood.com/rust-solutions.html
the order is pretty simple - get the car safely up in the air to work on it. Ramps would be preferable, but a jack and jackstands would work. Gloves, glasses, and ear protection are all needed. First, strip as much loose rust as you can - a wire brush is a good way to start. Then work from one end of the car to the other with whatever grinding/sanding attachments you picked up and try to get down to shiny bare metal. Naval jelly can be used here (after the sanding) but isn't a requirement. It does have to be rinsed with water after you apply it. Once you have done that, clean all the dust off and apply either a rust-preventative primer or the rust encapsulator (these often come in spray cans or cans to be applied with a brush - might go for the brush applicator here). Then topcoat.
Pretty simple, just labor intensive and time consuming, and probably hot and very dirty. When you spray the topcoat, mask off the outside of the car and make sure you have a lot of ventilation in your workspace.
Naval jelly is sold at most automotive stores as well.
www.eastwood.com has a huge selection of tools and supplies for this type of job. I've used their products before and they are high quality. Here is the link for their page with "rust solutions" products: http://www.eastwood.com/rust-solutions.html
the order is pretty simple - get the car safely up in the air to work on it. Ramps would be preferable, but a jack and jackstands would work. Gloves, glasses, and ear protection are all needed. First, strip as much loose rust as you can - a wire brush is a good way to start. Then work from one end of the car to the other with whatever grinding/sanding attachments you picked up and try to get down to shiny bare metal. Naval jelly can be used here (after the sanding) but isn't a requirement. It does have to be rinsed with water after you apply it. Once you have done that, clean all the dust off and apply either a rust-preventative primer or the rust encapsulator (these often come in spray cans or cans to be applied with a brush - might go for the brush applicator here). Then topcoat.
Pretty simple, just labor intensive and time consuming, and probably hot and very dirty. When you spray the topcoat, mask off the outside of the car and make sure you have a lot of ventilation in your workspace.
#7
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#9
I'm sure you can find the supplies you need in a Canadian auto parts or home improvement store. Perhaps a fellow canuck will chime in and help with that.
NO, NO NO NO NO NO NO....do not work under the car when it is only supported by jacks - this is for your own safety my friend. You must use jackstands to carry the weight of the vehicle, or ramps. I will usually leave the jack under the car and touching the jacking point with just a little tension on it after I have the jackstands set up.
Yes, you can work one end of the car at a time. As for the pinch weld that you say is rusty, you can get an adapter for a normal hydro jack that fits the pinch weld and will prevent damage.
However I usually jack the front of car up from the lower subframe mounting locations. The head of the jack fits nicely into the cup shaped mounting point. The rear however is more difficult, I usually use the pinch welds.
Ramps would be perhaps the best choice overall for this type of work, and you can pick them up for a reasonable sum from an auto parts store.
NO, NO NO NO NO NO NO....do not work under the car when it is only supported by jacks - this is for your own safety my friend. You must use jackstands to carry the weight of the vehicle, or ramps. I will usually leave the jack under the car and touching the jacking point with just a little tension on it after I have the jackstands set up.
Yes, you can work one end of the car at a time. As for the pinch weld that you say is rusty, you can get an adapter for a normal hydro jack that fits the pinch weld and will prevent damage.
However I usually jack the front of car up from the lower subframe mounting locations. The head of the jack fits nicely into the cup shaped mounting point. The rear however is more difficult, I usually use the pinch welds.
Ramps would be perhaps the best choice overall for this type of work, and you can pick them up for a reasonable sum from an auto parts store.
#10
for the rusted pinch rail it looks pretty rusted im not sure if after i sand that down the jacks will lift the car without it or safley,without causing damage to the car.also in the back of ther car the metal bar that runs from one wheel to the other is rusted am i able to sand that down and wet sand it maybe?
#11
OK, I thought you were talking about the undercarriage. You can pick up a 4 1/2 inch grinder at Lowe's or Home Depot for around $40 or less. (Assuming you live in the US here...). They also carry the sanding/grinding wheels and supplies, as do automotive stores such as Autozone or Advance Auto or NAPA.
Naval jelly is sold at most automotive stores as well.
www.eastwood.com has a huge selection of tools and supplies for this type of job. I've used their products before and they are high quality. Here is the link for their page with "rust solutions" products: http://www.eastwood.com/rust-solutions.html
the order is pretty simple - get the car safely up in the air to work on it. Ramps would be preferable, but a jack and jackstands would work. Gloves, glasses, and ear protection are all needed. First, strip as much loose rust as you can - a wire brush is a good way to start. Then work from one end of the car to the other with whatever grinding/sanding attachments you picked up and try to get down to shiny bare metal. Naval jelly can be used here (after the sanding) but isn't a requirement. It does have to be rinsed with water after you apply it. Once you have done that, clean all the dust off and apply either a rust-preventative primer or the rust encapsulator (these often come in spray cans or cans to be applied with a brush - might go for the brush applicator here). Then topcoat.
Pretty simple, just labor intensive and time consuming, and probably hot and very dirty. When you spray the topcoat, mask off the outside of the car and make sure you have a lot of ventilation in your workspace.
Naval jelly is sold at most automotive stores as well.
www.eastwood.com has a huge selection of tools and supplies for this type of job. I've used their products before and they are high quality. Here is the link for their page with "rust solutions" products: http://www.eastwood.com/rust-solutions.html
the order is pretty simple - get the car safely up in the air to work on it. Ramps would be preferable, but a jack and jackstands would work. Gloves, glasses, and ear protection are all needed. First, strip as much loose rust as you can - a wire brush is a good way to start. Then work from one end of the car to the other with whatever grinding/sanding attachments you picked up and try to get down to shiny bare metal. Naval jelly can be used here (after the sanding) but isn't a requirement. It does have to be rinsed with water after you apply it. Once you have done that, clean all the dust off and apply either a rust-preventative primer or the rust encapsulator (these often come in spray cans or cans to be applied with a brush - might go for the brush applicator here). Then topcoat.
Pretty simple, just labor intensive and time consuming, and probably hot and very dirty. When you spray the topcoat, mask off the outside of the car and make sure you have a lot of ventilation in your workspace.
the undercarrige is the underneath the car right..If so then YES its is the undercarrige.
#12
A place near me stops rust and are very good.
Usually one treatment would last the time you own the car
There must be companies near you who do this:-
http://www.thewaxworks.net/procedure.html
Usually one treatment would last the time you own the car
There must be companies near you who do this:-
http://www.thewaxworks.net/procedure.html
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