What is the best type of reader/scanner to get for a reasonable price? What does it nead to do? OBDII, anything else? My 2003 2.5L CEL is flashing and it runs (if you call it that) horribly.

 

Any of the OBD II scanners will work, or you can take it to most auto parts stores and they will pull the codes for you for free. If you pay extra for the enhanced OBD II scan tools they often times can read other codes like body, transmission, and ABS faults that the $40 scan tools cannot but any reader will pull the engine codes.

If your check engine light is flashing that means it's a pretty serious fault that could damage the engine or catalytic converters so I wouldn't drive it long like that.

Most times it's due to misfires caused by old spark plugs, a bad coil pack or intake manifold gasket leaks. If it's got more than 75k miles on it and the plugs haven't been changed I'd start there first.

Lot's of good posts on this site explaining exactly what to do.

Good luck and let us know what you find out.

 

The one scanner that I have that *didn't* work is the ELM bluetooth adapter (something like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/ELM327-OBD2-OBDII-V1-4-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Interface-/160550105283)

A mechanic I met while searching for my car said that some scanners need and external power source.

My wired scanner from Autozone (Sears.com) does work however.

 

Odd. It should have worked. May be a bad clone. Or maybe you used software to talk to it that didn't properly work.

 

rjcl, since you have an 03, you can use the ELM 327 reader with an Android phone app called "Torque". It is a free download unless you want the full version (then it will set you back $5). The Elm reader can be had for under $20.

For those that got the Elm reader, I have found that it only works on the 02 thru early 04 cars (those before the facelift). Jaguar changed something in the programming for the car and the ELM unit doesn't seem to like what they did. That is atleast my experience.

 

Does it matter which version you get? I see anything from v1.5 to v2.1 on Ebay. So this does what scanners do only a lot cheaper? Is there software for iPhone available? I don't have an android. If this does what I am saying, then you can leave it pluged in and get live readings? My car was misfiring when uder a load such as going up a hill at highway speeds, but if you drop it down a gear there wasn't a misfire. But all of a sudden one day, it started misfiring on what felt like half the cylinders on a level portion of the highway and I thought I wouldn't make it home even. It is running so bad I don't even want to take it to Auto store to get them to read the code(s). I am trying to buy a reader/scanner that will not only read the codes for this problem but will be useful with other things in the futue. Thanks again for your advice and knowledge!

 

rjcl, the Torque App is only for Android based phones. Granted, I would tell you to find a cheap Android phone and simply power it up to use the bluetooth function (you don't need a phone plan to make it do what you need). There may be another phone app for the iPhone, but I am not an Apple person, so, can't tell you what they may be.

As for real time data, with the free Torque version, it will do 1 parameter at a time. You get the paid version, you can do multiple data points.

When it comes to version, I would say to get the most modern version you can. Maybe that is what makes it so you can communicate with the newer cars. I am not sure what version I have. I bought it like 3 years ago and gave up using the other reader I have as the Torque program does so much more.

 

Well I pulled the codes this evening. P0301, P1000, P1313 and P1316. Sounds bad, I hope not. Just spent $$$$ to get keys and remotes because we lost the only one it came with.

 

P0301 Misfire detected cylinder 1
P1000 System (OBD) check not complete since last memory clear This is a non issue.
P1313 Misfire rate catalyst damage bank 1
P1316 Misfire excess emission

You may want to download this pdf file.

http://www.mediafire.com/view/1x7h01...DII_2002MY.pdf

Or go the route and download this bad boy.

http://www.mediafire.com/download/xp...Manual.pdf.zip

 

Does this indicate only one cylinder misfire? Is it the plugs or the coil? I think this 2003 x-type 2.5L has individual coils, how can I check the other coils while I am in there? Where is the best place to get a coil if that is what it is? Do coils have a shelf life? If it is the plugs, what are the best type to buy and what is the proper gap? Thanks, Rick

 

Probably coil but only way to tell is swap or test it (COP tester).

 

rjcl, odds are, what you are going to find is that the #3 plug well is going to have some oil in it and that is causing the plug to not spark like it should, leading to the misfire. Worst case, swap the questionable coil with the one in the lower left corner (behind the passenger side headlight) so later on if that coil is bad, it is easy to swap and you don't need to remove anything to access.

As for coils, I would look into trying to get a coil for a Lincoln LS 3.0L engine as that should be the same as what is in your car. That should be available at any local auto parts store.

 

So the Lincoln LS 3.0 is similar to my x-type 2.5? How similar and should I look for a 2003? You said to swap my #3 and #1 coil because I wouldn't have to remove what to get to it? Do I need to remove the intake manifold? I need to get this stuff because the weekend is almost upon me and I need to get it done. Thanks for your help!

 

rjcl, yes, the 3.0L Lincoln LS engine and the 2.5L Jaguar motors are very similar. They use a lot of the same parts. Things like the water pump are a bit different, but that is to be expected. They should use the same coils and plugs.

As for accessing #1 coil, that can be done by simply looking to the left of the air box and you will see the coil there. That way, should the coil be bad, you can undo a single bolt, undo a plug and wha-la, the coil is out. This will also allow you to read the codes again and if the code is now P0301, then you know it is the coil.

 

P0301 is misfire for cyl #1 not #3

 

A note on scanners, I would suggest you 'invest' in the most affordable wired one that meets your needs. I have a little Actron CP9550 PocketScan Plus ($70 or less on sale) that I use all the time on different cars. The bluetooth ones are handy and fun, but a reliable wired scanner is a must have tool. You don't want to have to worry about dropped connections, dead phone bat, or trouble shooting your BT scanner and adnroid app when your car wont start or the check engine light and dashboard are lit up like clark griswalds house at christmas time!

Don't go too crazy though, in 10 years you will regret paying hundreds or thousands on a scanner that is obsolete by that time. (hmmm reminds me of the snap on scanner from the 90's sitting in the garge) ;(



after you get a wired one pick up a bluetooth china special and play with it on you phone.

You can also check this post https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/g...oved-**-33347/

My scanner is actually on the 'not approved" list, likely because it only pulls the code and doesn't explain the c codes. Oh well it still worked.

 

OK, so it is #1 cylinder which should be the front one on the passenger side if I am correct. I am going to change the plug and coil on that cylinder this weekend. followed by changing the remaining plugs when I have more time. Is there a write-up on changing the plugs on this engine? Do I need any other parts, or just the plugs? This is the best forum I have ever joined. I have others for my 2001 Ford Taurus, 2003 Ford winstar, 1989 Ford F-150, and 2001 Audi A6 Quattro.

 

Looks if your going to do one you should do them all while your in there...

Lots of the best How-to Posts are in a "sticky" at the top of the X-type section, this one is included in that list.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...nge-faq-48128/

 

rjcl, when doing the plugs, there are 2 trains of thought with this: 1) reuse the gaskets on the intake as they are re-usable and most of the time are just fine, or 2) you have it apart, the gaskets are not that expensive and do not add any time to the job and that way you have no questions as to whether they will seal and not be an issue in the future. The gaskets can be obtained from the local auto parts store for around $50 total for the upper and lower gaskets (ask for the gaskets relating to the Lincoln LS 3.0L engine). The gaskets are made by Felpro and if you do some looking, I have posted the part numbers on the site.

I have torn into my intake a few times and I still haven't replaced the gaskets. I figured with 155K miles on the engine, they are probably about due and the next time I rip into the intake, I have the gaskets in hot standby for me to install.

 

I agree. But, I was under the impression that I could get to cylinder #1 without removing the intake manifold etc...