Shaking engine!!! Help pls
#1
05-07-2023, 11:21 PM
Shaking engine!!! Help pls
Hi, I hv a 2004 jagaur xtype I had got it for 500CAD as a project car. I washed the engine with a hose ( NOT a pressure washer) and it had started to misfire. I took it apart and check the spark plugs they were in oil or smt. I cleaned hv cleaned the oil and the spark plugs out including the coils. I put everthing back together and when I started the car the engine still was shaking not as much as it was before but it was still shaking any idea what could be the issue with it?
PS: When I got the car the initally issue was the coolant leak from the water pipe, when I drove it home the engine was fine.
PS: When I got the car the initally issue was the coolant leak from the water pipe, when I drove it home the engine was fine.
#2
05-08-2023, 04:41 AM
Member
Hi, I hv a 2004 jagaur xtype I had got it for 500CAD as a project car. I washed the engine with a hose ( NOT a pressure washer) and it had started to misfire. I took it apart and check the spark plugs they were in oil or smt. I cleaned hv cleaned the oil and the spark plugs out including the coils. I put everthying back together and when I started the car the engine still was shaking not as much as it was before but it was still shaking any idea what could be the issue with it?
PS: When I got the car the initially issue was the coolant leak from the water pipe, when I drove it home the engine was fine.
PS: When I got the car the initially issue was the coolant leak from the water pipe, when I drove it home the engine was fine.
#3
05-08-2023, 02:29 PM
My water pump failed and the leaking coolant caused water damage (rust) to one of my coils causing a misfire. I had to change number 6 coil out to fix it. You said you had the coils out and dried them but did you check them for water damage / rust? Maybe that's your issue since you mentioned you had a coolant leak....
#5
05-08-2023, 04:38 PM
Veteran member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
Posts: 14,247
Likes: 0
Received 3,838 Likes
on
3,156 Posts
HELP, first off, do you have a scanner to read the engine codes? If not, you need to get one. Guessing at which cylinders are giving you problems is a sure way to drag this out. The codes are going to tell you exactly what cylinders are not happy. You should be getting codes like P0300, P0301, P034, etc. P0300 is a general misfire. This is not of much help in your case. But the P030X (where X is the cylinder in question), you have 2 or 3 of these codes, that will tell you which cylinder(s) are having the misfires. You can then inspect the coils and determine if a new one is needed. You can also swap 1 coil at a time and see if the problem moves. If it does, then you know that coil is bad. If you move around multiple coils at the same time, you can get some interesting results and it can confuse as much as it helps.
Also make sure that the inside of the boot is dry too. You can get shorting through the water to the engine block which will cause a cylinder to misfire. Another trait I have seen is the coils will develop little "white hairs" in the epoxy ends. That is a crack that can let water into the coil. You get water inside, very difficult to get out and get the coil working right again. Much easier to just replace the coil. Kinda like I would tell you to rub your finger on the rubber boots and if you are getting small black dust/crumbs off of the boots, replace the boots. The boots are rotten and are not providing the insulation effect that is needed. If you have a cylinder that is misfiring and it is not the coil, then odds are it is your plug. If you have an entire side of the engine that is misfiring, I would look at the ground points to the fuel injectors. They are located above the front side passenger tire and are bolted to the body. If these ground get moisture in them or on them with corroded terminals, that can create hell with the engine. BUt, normally you will get say cylinders 1, 3, and 5 all to be acting up at the same time. If this is your case, then clean those ground points back to a shiny silver using a wire brush and a little bit of sand paper. do not forget to touch up the stud on the body too.
Also make sure that the inside of the boot is dry too. You can get shorting through the water to the engine block which will cause a cylinder to misfire. Another trait I have seen is the coils will develop little "white hairs" in the epoxy ends. That is a crack that can let water into the coil. You get water inside, very difficult to get out and get the coil working right again. Much easier to just replace the coil. Kinda like I would tell you to rub your finger on the rubber boots and if you are getting small black dust/crumbs off of the boots, replace the boots. The boots are rotten and are not providing the insulation effect that is needed. If you have a cylinder that is misfiring and it is not the coil, then odds are it is your plug. If you have an entire side of the engine that is misfiring, I would look at the ground points to the fuel injectors. They are located above the front side passenger tire and are bolted to the body. If these ground get moisture in them or on them with corroded terminals, that can create hell with the engine. BUt, normally you will get say cylinders 1, 3, and 5 all to be acting up at the same time. If this is your case, then clean those ground points back to a shiny silver using a wire brush and a little bit of sand paper. do not forget to touch up the stud on the body too.
#6
05-08-2023, 06:07 PM
HELP, first off, do you have a scanner to read the engine codes? If not, you need to get one. Guessing at which cylinders are giving you problems is a sure way to drag this out. The codes are going to tell you exactly what cylinders are not happy. You should be getting codes like P0300, P0301, P034, etc. P0300 is a general misfire. This is not of much help in your case. But the P030X (where X is the cylinder in question), you have 2 or 3 of these codes, that will tell you which cylinder(s) are having the misfires. You can then inspect the coils and determine if a new one is needed. You can also swap 1 coil at a time and see if the problem moves. If it does, then you know that coil is bad. If you move around multiple coils at the same time, you can get some interesting results and it can confuse as much as it helps.
Also make sure that the inside of the boot is dry too. You can get shorting through the water to the engine block which will cause a cylinder to misfire. Another trait I have seen is the coils will develop little "white hairs" in the epoxy ends. That is a crack that can let water into the coil. You get water inside, very difficult to get out and get the coil working right again. Much easier to just replace the coil. Kinda like I would tell you to rub your finger on the rubber boots and if you are getting small black dust/crumbs off of the boots, replace the boots. The boots are rotten and are not providing the insulation effect that is needed. If you have a cylinder that is misfiring and it is not the coil, then odds are it is your plug. If you have an entire side of the engine that is misfiring, I would look at the ground points to the fuel injectors. They are located above the front side passenger tire and are bolted to the body. If these ground get moisture in them or on them with corroded terminals, that can create hell with the engine. BUt, normally you will get say cylinders 1, 3, and 5 all to be acting up at the same time. If this is your case, then clean those ground points back to a shiny silver using a wire brush and a little bit of sand paper. do not forget to touch up the stud on the body too.
Also make sure that the inside of the boot is dry too. You can get shorting through the water to the engine block which will cause a cylinder to misfire. Another trait I have seen is the coils will develop little "white hairs" in the epoxy ends. That is a crack that can let water into the coil. You get water inside, very difficult to get out and get the coil working right again. Much easier to just replace the coil. Kinda like I would tell you to rub your finger on the rubber boots and if you are getting small black dust/crumbs off of the boots, replace the boots. The boots are rotten and are not providing the insulation effect that is needed. If you have a cylinder that is misfiring and it is not the coil, then odds are it is your plug. If you have an entire side of the engine that is misfiring, I would look at the ground points to the fuel injectors. They are located above the front side passenger tire and are bolted to the body. If these ground get moisture in them or on them with corroded terminals, that can create hell with the engine. BUt, normally you will get say cylinders 1, 3, and 5 all to be acting up at the same time. If this is your case, then clean those ground points back to a shiny silver using a wire brush and a little bit of sand paper. do not forget to touch up the stud on the body too.
P1603
P0300
P0301
P0302
P0303
P0305
P1313
P1316
P0102
P0112
P1108
P1229
P1532
P1647
P0300
P0302
P0303
P1316
P0102
P0112
P0122
P0222
P0560
P1000
P1532
P1549
P1647
from what you said above their is a misfire code, would it matter if the coils and spark plugs are new? also do you know what the other codes mean?
#7
05-08-2023, 06:33 PM
HELP, first off, do you have a scanner to read the engine codes? If not, you need to get one. Guessing at which cylinders are giving you problems is a sure way to drag this out. The codes are going to tell you exactly what cylinders are not happy. You should be getting codes like P0300, P0301, P034, etc. P0300 is a general misfire. This is not of much help in your case. But the P030X (where X is the cylinder in question), you have 2 or 3 of these codes, that will tell you which cylinder(s) are having the misfires. You can then inspect the coils and determine if a new one is needed. You can also swap 1 coil at a time and see if the problem moves. If it does, then you know that coil is bad. If you move around multiple coils at the same time, you can get some interesting results and it can confuse as much as it helps.
Also make sure that the inside of the boot is dry too. You can get shorting through the water to the engine block which will cause a cylinder to misfire. Another trait I have seen is the coils will develop little "white hairs" in the epoxy ends. That is a crack that can let water into the coil. You get water inside, very difficult to get out and get the coil working right again. Much easier to just replace the coil. Kinda like I would tell you to rub your finger on the rubber boots and if you are getting small black dust/crumbs off of the boots, replace the boots. The boots are rotten and are not providing the insulation effect that is needed. If you have a cylinder that is misfiring and it is not the coil, then odds are it is your plug. If you have an entire side of the engine that is misfiring, I would look at the ground points to the fuel injectors. They are located above the front side passenger tire and are bolted to the body. If these ground get moisture in them or on them with corroded terminals, that can create hell with the engine. BUt, normally you will get say cylinders 1, 3, and 5 all to be acting up at the same time. If this is your case, then clean those ground points back to a shiny silver using a wire brush and a little bit of sand paper. do not forget to touch up the stud on the body too.
Also make sure that the inside of the boot is dry too. You can get shorting through the water to the engine block which will cause a cylinder to misfire. Another trait I have seen is the coils will develop little "white hairs" in the epoxy ends. That is a crack that can let water into the coil. You get water inside, very difficult to get out and get the coil working right again. Much easier to just replace the coil. Kinda like I would tell you to rub your finger on the rubber boots and if you are getting small black dust/crumbs off of the boots, replace the boots. The boots are rotten and are not providing the insulation effect that is needed. If you have a cylinder that is misfiring and it is not the coil, then odds are it is your plug. If you have an entire side of the engine that is misfiring, I would look at the ground points to the fuel injectors. They are located above the front side passenger tire and are bolted to the body. If these ground get moisture in them or on them with corroded terminals, that can create hell with the engine. BUt, normally you will get say cylinders 1, 3, and 5 all to be acting up at the same time. If this is your case, then clean those ground points back to a shiny silver using a wire brush and a little bit of sand paper. do not forget to touch up the stud on the body too.
Trending Topics
#9
05-09-2023, 04:35 PM
Veteran member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
Posts: 14,247
Likes: 0
Received 3,838 Likes
on
3,156 Posts
HELP, the car will not run with the intake off. What you have pictured are the coils, not the spark plugs. Those are not looking too bad. If you look down in the holeswhere you pulled those from, you will see the plugs. Get a basic platinum plug to stick back in the car. DO NOT!!!! get teh multi-spark spark plugs or any sort of plug with multiple electrodes. At best, your car will run normal. But, odds are, it will make it run like hell. SO, plugs like Split Fire or anything indicating/advertising a multiple spark anything, avoid.
Just to make sure that you are going after the correct cylinders, for you, if you stand by the passenger front tire, you are standing at the "front of the engine". You should see the serpentine belt there and a lot of the accessories for the engine (alternator, A/C compressor, etc). The cylinders next to the firewall are 1, 3, and 5 with 1 being closest to you, 5 being the furthest away. Same goes for the other side of the engine. It has cylinders 2, 4, and 6 with 2 nearest you and 6 furthest away. I would change out all 6 plugs and make sure that the plug holes are dry. I would then use the code reader and clear all the codes that you are currently seeing (hard to say what is real and what is not at this point since you just bought the car). I would also do an inspection of all the coils and make sure that the top of the coil does not have any "white hairs" in them. The white hairs are actually cracks and this can allow water to get inside and create a lot of mischief. Get the engine to fire and then see what codes you have then and report back what codes you have.
I can send you a list of error codes for the engine that will help you out as it will explain what the code means and what are the likely sources. But, you have a car that is in a transition year. There are 2 different wiring schematics for the car and you may or may not have some features. So, if you look in the driver's door jam, you will find a sticker there that has some info about the car. One of the things is the build month and year. Include that. This will ensure you get the correct information. I can send you the wiring diagrams too for the car. You will find those helpful.
Just to make sure that you are going after the correct cylinders, for you, if you stand by the passenger front tire, you are standing at the "front of the engine". You should see the serpentine belt there and a lot of the accessories for the engine (alternator, A/C compressor, etc). The cylinders next to the firewall are 1, 3, and 5 with 1 being closest to you, 5 being the furthest away. Same goes for the other side of the engine. It has cylinders 2, 4, and 6 with 2 nearest you and 6 furthest away. I would change out all 6 plugs and make sure that the plug holes are dry. I would then use the code reader and clear all the codes that you are currently seeing (hard to say what is real and what is not at this point since you just bought the car). I would also do an inspection of all the coils and make sure that the top of the coil does not have any "white hairs" in them. The white hairs are actually cracks and this can allow water to get inside and create a lot of mischief. Get the engine to fire and then see what codes you have then and report back what codes you have.
I can send you a list of error codes for the engine that will help you out as it will explain what the code means and what are the likely sources. But, you have a car that is in a transition year. There are 2 different wiring schematics for the car and you may or may not have some features. So, if you look in the driver's door jam, you will find a sticker there that has some info about the car. One of the things is the build month and year. Include that. This will ensure you get the correct information. I can send you the wiring diagrams too for the car. You will find those helpful.
#10
05-09-2023, 05:47 PM
HELP, the car will not run with the intake off. What you have pictured are the coils, not the spark plugs. Those are not looking too bad. If you look down in the holeswhere you pulled those from, you will see the plugs. Get a basic platinum plug to stick back in the car. DO NOT!!!! get teh multi-spark spark plugs or any sort of plug with multiple electrodes. At best, your car will run normal. But, odds are, it will make it run like hell. SO, plugs like Split Fire or anything indicating/advertising a multiple spark anything, avoid.
Just to make sure that you are going after the correct cylinders, for you, if you stand by the passenger front tire, you are standing at the "front of the engine". You should see the serpentine belt there and a lot of the accessories for the engine (alternator, A/C compressor, etc). The cylinders next to the firewall are 1, 3, and 5 with 1 being closest to you, 5 being the furthest away. Same goes for the other side of the engine. It has cylinders 2, 4, and 6 with 2 nearest you and 6 furthest away. I would change out all 6 plugs and make sure that the plug holes are dry. I would then use the code reader and clear all the codes that you are currently seeing (hard to say what is real and what is not at this point since you just bought the car). I would also do an inspection of all the coils and make sure that the top of the coil does not have any "white hairs" in them. The white hairs are actually cracks and this can allow water to get inside and create a lot of mischief. Get the engine to fire and then see what codes you have then and report back what codes you have.
I can send you a list of error codes for the engine that will help you out as it will explain what the code means and what are the likely sources. But, you have a car that is in a transition year. There are 2 different wiring schematics for the car and you may or may not have some features. So, if you look in the driver's door jam, you will find a sticker there that has some info about the car. One of the things is the build month and year. Include that. This will ensure you get the correct information. I can send you the wiring diagrams too for the car. You will find those helpful.
Just to make sure that you are going after the correct cylinders, for you, if you stand by the passenger front tire, you are standing at the "front of the engine". You should see the serpentine belt there and a lot of the accessories for the engine (alternator, A/C compressor, etc). The cylinders next to the firewall are 1, 3, and 5 with 1 being closest to you, 5 being the furthest away. Same goes for the other side of the engine. It has cylinders 2, 4, and 6 with 2 nearest you and 6 furthest away. I would change out all 6 plugs and make sure that the plug holes are dry. I would then use the code reader and clear all the codes that you are currently seeing (hard to say what is real and what is not at this point since you just bought the car). I would also do an inspection of all the coils and make sure that the top of the coil does not have any "white hairs" in them. The white hairs are actually cracks and this can allow water to get inside and create a lot of mischief. Get the engine to fire and then see what codes you have then and report back what codes you have.
I can send you a list of error codes for the engine that will help you out as it will explain what the code means and what are the likely sources. But, you have a car that is in a transition year. There are 2 different wiring schematics for the car and you may or may not have some features. So, if you look in the driver's door jam, you will find a sticker there that has some info about the car. One of the things is the build month and year. Include that. This will ensure you get the correct information. I can send you the wiring diagrams too for the car. You will find those helpful.
Also this is one of the spark plugs the one on the left is new one the left is the old one the guy had already changed before I bought the car
Last edited by HELP; 05-09-2023 at 05:57 PM.
#11
05-09-2023, 10:01 PM
@Thermo Hey thanks for all the help u gave I figured it out it wasnt a coil or spark plug issue lmao I didnt plug in one of the pressure hoses so it was leaking and I couldnt tell because the engine was shaking yk. there still is the coolant leak I need to get a new coolant water pipe outlet with the o-ring, any places I can get it for cheap in canada,vancouver
#12
05-10-2023, 03:27 PM
Veteran member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
Posts: 14,247
Likes: 0
Received 3,838 Likes
on
3,156 Posts
HELP, cheap and jaguar do not necessarily go together. If you are worried about price, then what I would tell you to do is search the local wrecking yards that are a do it yourself yard (not all recycle yards are this way). Then you can do some looking for X-Types and you may have a chance with a Lincoln LS 3.0L engine. The Lincoln engines were very close to our X-Type engines, yet, there were still differences (biggest being the location of the water pump). So, not sure how that may affect the pipe that you are after.
After that, you can try SNG Barrett (sponsor here) and see what they can do for you. They have a lot of parts for our cars and may have what you are after. I would then look at a website called "jaguarparts.com". I have used them a few times and gotten what I needed. Now, this has changed owners a few times, so, not sure what you may or may not be able to get. It used to be owned by a dealership in Las Vegas, then by one in Cleveland, OH. I think it has been sold again. But, they have diagrams and when I last used them, if you can find the parts in the diagrams, you can e-mail them and they will get you a good price on the part (was like 15-20% off the list price). If you called them on the phone and had them look, then it was list price for the part. In your case, the pipe should not be that expensive (under $100 USD), so, it may be worth your time to pay the extra for the certainty of getting the correct part. You may want to take the pics you have posted here and e-mail them to the website to help them understand what part you need. If you do use the dealership, they will need the last 6 or 7 digits of your VIN to ensure you get the correct version of the part. If you look up the dealership in Las Vegas, they will still help you and possibly give you a good deal on a part. When I have used them, the parts I was after were always less than listed price. But, that has been a number of years. So, I do not want to speak to what they may be doing today. Here is a link to get in contact with them: Gaudin Jaguar in Las Vegas, West Sahara Avenue, Store Hours (localmint.com)
Just for your information, you have what is referred to around these parts as a pre-2004 X-Type. This is good and bad. You have the original design X-Type that has a few less bells and whistles built into the wiring. So, if you go looking for wiring diagrams (they are up in the stickies at the top of the main page for the X-Type under the JTIS download, if you haven't downloaded this, DO SO!!!! Lots of good info in that program), you are realy needing the 2003 wiring diagrams. That will match your car. Starting in April 2004, Jaguar put in a different wiring harness and renumbered the fuse boxes. So, for you, that can lead to a lot of confusion. One plus I would say the early cars like you have is that their transfer cases were a viscous fluid style vice an open differential setup like the later cars got. The later cars, if it was not equipped with DSC (dynamic stability control), once one wheel lost traction, it would suck up all the power from the engine and pretty much strand you. Where, the earlier cars, one front and one rear wheel always got some amount of power and therefore, if one wheel lost traction, a wheel on the other end of the car would help pull you out of the situation. Granted, this transfer case is also seen as a weaker transfer case. But, if it has lasted this long, you have one that was not built incorrectly.
After that, you can try SNG Barrett (sponsor here) and see what they can do for you. They have a lot of parts for our cars and may have what you are after. I would then look at a website called "jaguarparts.com". I have used them a few times and gotten what I needed. Now, this has changed owners a few times, so, not sure what you may or may not be able to get. It used to be owned by a dealership in Las Vegas, then by one in Cleveland, OH. I think it has been sold again. But, they have diagrams and when I last used them, if you can find the parts in the diagrams, you can e-mail them and they will get you a good price on the part (was like 15-20% off the list price). If you called them on the phone and had them look, then it was list price for the part. In your case, the pipe should not be that expensive (under $100 USD), so, it may be worth your time to pay the extra for the certainty of getting the correct part. You may want to take the pics you have posted here and e-mail them to the website to help them understand what part you need. If you do use the dealership, they will need the last 6 or 7 digits of your VIN to ensure you get the correct version of the part. If you look up the dealership in Las Vegas, they will still help you and possibly give you a good deal on a part. When I have used them, the parts I was after were always less than listed price. But, that has been a number of years. So, I do not want to speak to what they may be doing today. Here is a link to get in contact with them: Gaudin Jaguar in Las Vegas, West Sahara Avenue, Store Hours (localmint.com)
Just for your information, you have what is referred to around these parts as a pre-2004 X-Type. This is good and bad. You have the original design X-Type that has a few less bells and whistles built into the wiring. So, if you go looking for wiring diagrams (they are up in the stickies at the top of the main page for the X-Type under the JTIS download, if you haven't downloaded this, DO SO!!!! Lots of good info in that program), you are realy needing the 2003 wiring diagrams. That will match your car. Starting in April 2004, Jaguar put in a different wiring harness and renumbered the fuse boxes. So, for you, that can lead to a lot of confusion. One plus I would say the early cars like you have is that their transfer cases were a viscous fluid style vice an open differential setup like the later cars got. The later cars, if it was not equipped with DSC (dynamic stability control), once one wheel lost traction, it would suck up all the power from the engine and pretty much strand you. Where, the earlier cars, one front and one rear wheel always got some amount of power and therefore, if one wheel lost traction, a wheel on the other end of the car would help pull you out of the situation. Granted, this transfer case is also seen as a weaker transfer case. But, if it has lasted this long, you have one that was not built incorrectly.
#13
05-10-2023, 04:28 PM
HELP, cheap and jaguar do not necessarily go together. If you are worried about price, then what I would tell you to do is search the local wrecking yards that are a do it yourself yard (not all recycle yards are this way). Then you can do some looking for X-Types and you may have a chance with a Lincoln LS 3.0L engine. The Lincoln engines were very close to our X-Type engines, yet, there were still differences (biggest being the location of the water pump). So, not sure how that may affect the pipe that you are after.
After that, you can try SNG Barrett (sponsor here) and see what they can do for you. They have a lot of parts for our cars and may have what you are after. I would then look at a website called "jaguarparts.com". I have used them a few times and gotten what I needed. Now, this has changed owners a few times, so, not sure what you may or may not be able to get. It used to be owned by a dealership in Las Vegas, then by one in Cleveland, OH. I think it has been sold again. But, they have diagrams and when I last used them, if you can find the parts in the diagrams, you can e-mail them and they will get you a good price on the part (was like 15-20% off the list price). If you called them on the phone and had them look, then it was list price for the part. In your case, the pipe should not be that expensive (under $100 USD), so, it may be worth your time to pay the extra for the certainty of getting the correct part. You may want to take the pics you have posted here and e-mail them to the website to help them understand what part you need. If you do use the dealership, they will need the last 6 or 7 digits of your VIN to ensure you get the correct version of the part. If you look up the dealership in Las Vegas, they will still help you and possibly give you a good deal on a part. When I have used them, the parts I was after were always less than listed price. But, that has been a number of years. So, I do not want to speak to what they may be doing today. Here is a link to get in contact with them: Gaudin Jaguar in Las Vegas, West Sahara Avenue, Store Hours (localmint.com)
Just for your information, you have what is referred to around these parts as a pre-2004 X-Type. This is good and bad. You have the original design X-Type that has a few less bells and whistles built into the wiring. So, if you go looking for wiring diagrams (they are up in the stickies at the top of the main page for the X-Type under the JTIS download, if you haven't downloaded this, DO SO!!!! Lots of good info in that program), you are realy needing the 2003 wiring diagrams. That will match your car. Starting in April 2004, Jaguar put in a different wiring harness and renumbered the fuse boxes. So, for you, that can lead to a lot of confusion. One plus I would say the early cars like you have is that their transfer cases were a viscous fluid style vice an open differential setup like the later cars got. The later cars, if it was not equipped with DSC (dynamic stability control), once one wheel lost traction, it would suck up all the power from the engine and pretty much strand you. Where, the earlier cars, one front and one rear wheel always got some amount of power and therefore, if one wheel lost traction, a wheel on the other end of the car would help pull you out of the situation. Granted, this transfer case is also seen as a weaker transfer case. But, if it has lasted this long, you have one that was not built incorrectly.
After that, you can try SNG Barrett (sponsor here) and see what they can do for you. They have a lot of parts for our cars and may have what you are after. I would then look at a website called "jaguarparts.com". I have used them a few times and gotten what I needed. Now, this has changed owners a few times, so, not sure what you may or may not be able to get. It used to be owned by a dealership in Las Vegas, then by one in Cleveland, OH. I think it has been sold again. But, they have diagrams and when I last used them, if you can find the parts in the diagrams, you can e-mail them and they will get you a good price on the part (was like 15-20% off the list price). If you called them on the phone and had them look, then it was list price for the part. In your case, the pipe should not be that expensive (under $100 USD), so, it may be worth your time to pay the extra for the certainty of getting the correct part. You may want to take the pics you have posted here and e-mail them to the website to help them understand what part you need. If you do use the dealership, they will need the last 6 or 7 digits of your VIN to ensure you get the correct version of the part. If you look up the dealership in Las Vegas, they will still help you and possibly give you a good deal on a part. When I have used them, the parts I was after were always less than listed price. But, that has been a number of years. So, I do not want to speak to what they may be doing today. Here is a link to get in contact with them: Gaudin Jaguar in Las Vegas, West Sahara Avenue, Store Hours (localmint.com)
Just for your information, you have what is referred to around these parts as a pre-2004 X-Type. This is good and bad. You have the original design X-Type that has a few less bells and whistles built into the wiring. So, if you go looking for wiring diagrams (they are up in the stickies at the top of the main page for the X-Type under the JTIS download, if you haven't downloaded this, DO SO!!!! Lots of good info in that program), you are realy needing the 2003 wiring diagrams. That will match your car. Starting in April 2004, Jaguar put in a different wiring harness and renumbered the fuse boxes. So, for you, that can lead to a lot of confusion. One plus I would say the early cars like you have is that their transfer cases were a viscous fluid style vice an open differential setup like the later cars got. The later cars, if it was not equipped with DSC (dynamic stability control), once one wheel lost traction, it would suck up all the power from the engine and pretty much strand you. Where, the earlier cars, one front and one rear wheel always got some amount of power and therefore, if one wheel lost traction, a wheel on the other end of the car would help pull you out of the situation. Granted, this transfer case is also seen as a weaker transfer case. But, if it has lasted this long, you have one that was not built incorrectly.
#14
05-10-2023, 06:56 PM
Veteran Member
Hey Help,
Reading this thread, the only info you appear to have asked Thermo for appears to be a link to a basic platinum plug.
If you are looking for the electrical schematics and OBD11 codes, you will find them by following the link below.
Just be aware of some schematic changes for different years of production, yours being a 2004 there are two choices.
JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
Reading this thread, the only info you appear to have asked Thermo for appears to be a link to a basic platinum plug.
If you are looking for the electrical schematics and OBD11 codes, you will find them by following the link below.
Just be aware of some schematic changes for different years of production, yours being a 2004 there are two choices.
JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
The following users liked this post:
HELP (05-10-2023)
#15
05-10-2023, 11:40 PM
@Thermo @h2o2steam I went for a drive td and noticed when I press the break pedal and put it in reverse there is a click noise any idea what it could be? I can post a video of the noise tm. My mom had a 2005 jag xtype and the tranny went cause of the reverse gear same noise happend on the car beofre it went. When I bought the car the guy said that the tranny had been replaced back in 2020 and he didnt drive it ablot either. really wish its not the tranny any ideas?
#16
05-11-2023, 02:12 AM
Veteran Member
Where are you sensing the click is coming from....internally within the J-Gate shifter assembly or external like in the transmission?
If you think it is below the floor you might want to check the "dog bone" which is the gearbox stabilizer that attaches from lower rear of gearbox to a mounting point under the car near the drive tunnel.
Have a read of this thread to give you an idea of what to look for.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...rattle-251478/
If you think it is below the floor you might want to check the "dog bone" which is the gearbox stabilizer that attaches from lower rear of gearbox to a mounting point under the car near the drive tunnel.
Have a read of this thread to give you an idea of what to look for.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...rattle-251478/
#17
05-11-2023, 03:51 PM
Veteran member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
Posts: 14,247
Likes: 0
Received 3,838 Likes
on
3,156 Posts
Help, here is a list of plugs that I would tell you to look for:
Bosch Platinum Spark Plug 6747 (autozone.com)
Autolite Platinum Spark Plug AP103 (autozone.com)
Motorcraft Platinum Spark Plug SP-479-X (autozone.com)
As for your noise. Exactly when does it come in? If you are stopped and in PARK and you step on the brake, you should hear a little click happen in the area of the J-Gate. This is a safety feature of the car so you cannot knock it out of gear. If the click is happening as the car is being shifted into gear, then I would say to follow the guidance of the link h2o2 sent. If you are not sure exactly when the click is happening, then take things really slow, and see what action causes the click to happen.
Bosch Platinum Spark Plug 6747 (autozone.com)
Autolite Platinum Spark Plug AP103 (autozone.com)
Motorcraft Platinum Spark Plug SP-479-X (autozone.com)
As for your noise. Exactly when does it come in? If you are stopped and in PARK and you step on the brake, you should hear a little click happen in the area of the J-Gate. This is a safety feature of the car so you cannot knock it out of gear. If the click is happening as the car is being shifted into gear, then I would say to follow the guidance of the link h2o2 sent. If you are not sure exactly when the click is happening, then take things really slow, and see what action causes the click to happen.
#18
05-11-2023, 10:21 PM
[QUOTE=Thermo;2641458]Help, here is a list of plugs that I would tell you to look for:
Bosch Platinum Spark Plug 6747 (autozone.com)
Autolite Platinum Spark Plug AP103 (autozone.com)
Motorcraft Platinum Spark Plug SP-479-X (autozone.com)
As for your noise. Exactly when does it come in? If you are stopped and in PARK and you step on the brake, you should hear a little click happen in the area of the J-Gate. This is a safety feature of the car so you cannot knock it out of gear. If the click is happening as the car is being shifted into gear, then I would say to follow the guidance of the link h2o2 sent. If you are not sure exactly when the click is happening, then take things really slow, and see what action causes the click to happen.[/QUOTE@]
@H20boy thats not the same issue I am having in the link you sent me
@Thermo The noise happens when I go to reverse gear here is a video: https://youtube.com/shorts/24T-ajgD9tU?feature=share the noise you hear when going to drive I think is just the breaks but not sure but 5 sec in the where I go N to R you can hear the noise not clear but its there. is there any way on testing the transmission for issues? could it be the transmission fluid? is there a way to check
Bosch Platinum Spark Plug 6747 (autozone.com)
Autolite Platinum Spark Plug AP103 (autozone.com)
Motorcraft Platinum Spark Plug SP-479-X (autozone.com)
As for your noise. Exactly when does it come in? If you are stopped and in PARK and you step on the brake, you should hear a little click happen in the area of the J-Gate. This is a safety feature of the car so you cannot knock it out of gear. If the click is happening as the car is being shifted into gear, then I would say to follow the guidance of the link h2o2 sent. If you are not sure exactly when the click is happening, then take things really slow, and see what action causes the click to happen.[/QUOTE@]
@H20boy thats not the same issue I am having in the link you sent me
@Thermo The noise happens when I go to reverse gear here is a video: https://youtube.com/shorts/24T-ajgD9tU?feature=share the noise you hear when going to drive I think is just the breaks but not sure but 5 sec in the where I go N to R you can hear the noise not clear but its there. is there any way on testing the transmission for issues? could it be the transmission fluid? is there a way to check
#19
05-12-2023, 12:04 AM
Veteran Member
I'm struggling a bit to isolate the noises from the video.
Definitely hear something that sounds like disc brake creaking as the torque arrives to the wheels.
The notch sounds of the J-Gate moving through each position sounds normal.
But am I right in thinking there is a deeper thud sound occurring about the same time the brake creaking is happening?
If it is a thud, I would be checking engine mounts and transmission stabilizer first for excessive movement with park and brakes applied, moving in and out of gear and raising and lowering engine revs (safely) to see how much movement is happening with the engine and trans.
If the sound is more coming from the rear of the engine around the transfer case, then you might have excessive backlash in the transfer case and you are hearing the slack being taken up as torque is first being applied.
I would expect a gentle low speed road test where you are in drive and just quietly oscillate between acceleration and deceleration may reproduce the backlash clunking sound if it is the transfer case.
O did see another member mention recently that his torque converter bolts on his car had loosened giving a clunk sound.
Definitely hear something that sounds like disc brake creaking as the torque arrives to the wheels.
The notch sounds of the J-Gate moving through each position sounds normal.
But am I right in thinking there is a deeper thud sound occurring about the same time the brake creaking is happening?
If it is a thud, I would be checking engine mounts and transmission stabilizer first for excessive movement with park and brakes applied, moving in and out of gear and raising and lowering engine revs (safely) to see how much movement is happening with the engine and trans.
If the sound is more coming from the rear of the engine around the transfer case, then you might have excessive backlash in the transfer case and you are hearing the slack being taken up as torque is first being applied.
I would expect a gentle low speed road test where you are in drive and just quietly oscillate between acceleration and deceleration may reproduce the backlash clunking sound if it is the transfer case.
O did see another member mention recently that his torque converter bolts on his car had loosened giving a clunk sound.
#20
05-12-2023, 01:24 AM
I'm struggling a bit to isolate the noises from the video.
Definitely hear something that sounds like disc brake creaking as the torque arrives to the wheels.
The notch sounds of the J-Gate moving through each position sounds normal.
But am I right in thinking there is a deeper thud sound occurring about the same time the brake creaking is happening?
If it is a thud, I would be checking engine mounts and transmission stabilizer first for excessive movement with park and brakes applied, moving in and out of gear and raising and lowering engine revs (safely) to see how much movement is happening with the engine and trans.
If the sound is more coming from the rear of the engine around the transfer case, then you might have excessive backlash in the transfer case and you are hearing the slack being taken up as torque is first being applied.
I would expect a gentle low speed road test where you are in drive and just quietly oscillate between acceleration and deceleration may reproduce the backlash clunking sound if it is the transfer case.
O did see another member mention recently that his torque converter bolts on his car had loosened giving a clunk sound.
Definitely hear something that sounds like disc brake creaking as the torque arrives to the wheels.
The notch sounds of the J-Gate moving through each position sounds normal.
But am I right in thinking there is a deeper thud sound occurring about the same time the brake creaking is happening?
If it is a thud, I would be checking engine mounts and transmission stabilizer first for excessive movement with park and brakes applied, moving in and out of gear and raising and lowering engine revs (safely) to see how much movement is happening with the engine and trans.
If the sound is more coming from the rear of the engine around the transfer case, then you might have excessive backlash in the transfer case and you are hearing the slack being taken up as torque is first being applied.
I would expect a gentle low speed road test where you are in drive and just quietly oscillate between acceleration and deceleration may reproduce the backlash clunking sound if it is the transfer case.
O did see another member mention recently that his torque converter bolts on his car had loosened giving a clunk sound.