02 x-type, My mech said there is a patch on the oil pan right near the drain plug. there is a little oil leaking from around there and my condo assocation is bugging me about it. He did cover the area with rtv but it still drips a little. Should I put some Lucas stop leak in it/

 

EEEKKKK No!

I have used JB Weld to do this kind of work. It would be best to have the oil drained before trying it. It needs to be clean and oil free for it to stick good.

 

yea I thought of the JB but I really don't want to grind all that stuff that's already there off. I may be opening a can of worms by doing that. My son is an aircraft mech and say's he can get me some good stuff to smear over the mess that's there already. I'll try that first

 

Well my Condo assoc. is breaking my stuff over this leak. I want to grind off whatever patch is there and start from scratch. What is the oil pan made of? this will help me decide what to patch it with. I will drain the oil sand off whatever is there and seal it with???????? and let it sit for a day with no oil in it, there it globs of RTV on it now but that was applied with oil in the pan so it never set up I guess.If they tell me I can't park here until it's fixed i'm in deep water cause there's nowhere else to park and I am in a handicapped spot in front of my Condo. If there are any lawyers on here, can they make a handicapped person not park in a lot where they own a Condo? My usual mechanic shop told me that they wouldn't even attempt to replace the pan for me.

 

There are 2 ways to replace the aluminum oil pan.
The proper way is to remove or at least displace the transfer case.
The alternate method is to drill a hole to access the ONE bolt in the corner blocked by the webbing of the transfer case.

I have done it BOTH ways MANY TIMES.

bob

 

So are you saying it's not that bad of a job to replace a pan if you just drill a hole? the motor doesn't have to be lifted, moved or anything?

 

There are many posts for the oil pan gasket replacement on this forum.
The pan is a tight fit to get it past the front subframe but it is not that difficult.
The one bolt needs to be removed and the hole drill EXACTLY beneath the one inaccessible pan bolt. The exhaust pipe needs be removed to drop the pan.

Try a forum search for the X400 oil pan removal.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ket-faq-11221/

You can have the pan welded or replaced once you get it off.

bob

bob

 

Thanks for the info, I am trying my hardest to seal it without removing it

 

can the pan be drained and welded while still on the car?

 

In general TIG welding aluminum has never been EZ for me. It needs to be clean clean clean. I do not think you will get the crack from seeping oil out when it is 0n the car. Overhead welding is never fun, but TIG welding Al overhead...wow not for me!


Have you resealed it yet?


I would take photos of the parking spot of the people who are giving you a hard time. Then ask them why are they picking on you. All cars drip some oil.

 

no, not repaired yet, still looking for a easy way out with some sort of patch. I do not have the place to remove it or the energy, I am disabled. I do have help but can't ask them to do all that work.

 

It is not that much work. If you were closer your car would be up on my lift!

This is how I would do it.

1. drain the oil.
2. re-jack up the car so that the drain plug and hole is a bit higher (this will run what oil that is in the pan to the other side)
3. Remove the old patch and clean it up very good. NO CLEANNER…AND CLEANNER, NOT YET,CLEANNER!
4. Use some“Gumout” carb cleaner on the pan and even spray a little in the drain hole, by the hole, to stop oil seepage
5. Use a small 4” grinder to clean and rough up a large area around the hole (the glue needs to get a grip onto something(tooth))
6. It should now be clean enough to eat off of!!!
7. Mix upsome JB Weld 50/50 then use a piece of plastic or old credit card to press theJB Weld into the hole with pressure
8. Then continue to apply the JB Weld over the entire area no thicker then 1/8”
9. Let it dry over night. If you have another sealer, gasket maker, etc. put it on now(can’t hurt).

10.REMEMBER TO PUT THE OIL BACK IN THE MOTOR AFTER IT ALL DRIES!!!

 

In my opinion that is the only way to do it without removing the pan. This is what I had planned. As far as showing other oil spots in other spaces....I am in a handicapped spot and my car is usually there 20 hours a day so of course the spot in my space is much bigger than in other spaces.

On another note is there a product that removes oil from blacktop that can be done just by pouring it on it? I'd like to make the oil spot smaller myself when they are not around.

 

Dawn dish washing liquid is what they use to clean up oil spills. Worth a try!

 

I know I'm getting trivial with this but I really hate to remove the stuff that's on there already. I will wire wheel it a bit to give it a better surface. The leak is small now and if I open it up I don't know what I'm in for. is there a silicone or epoxy that will adhere to anything and set up pretty quickly. I have to use someone else's garage to do this and hate to tie it up overnight for it to set up.I also will put a crush washer on the drain plug, for all I know that's part of the leak.

Just found this at NAPA.But I think I'd have to get to the bare metal to apply.

https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p...769/BK_7652769

what do you think a shop will charge to change the pan? One shop already told me they wouldn't even do it....lol

thanks in advance
Lou

 

If you can afford it, just bite the bullet and get the pan gasket replaced and fix it properly once and for all.

 

it's not the gasket, it's the pan itself. Look at the pictures.

 

Sorry, I meant replacing the pan. Sorry, I meant the pan. I bet a used one wouldn't be that expensive at a salvage yard. Replacing the pan definitely would not be cheap, but if you have them drill the hole to access that one bolt it will certainly mitigate the cost. That way it is fixed, not patched, once and for all. Plus, you would also get a new pan gasket as well. That way you should be good to go for the life of the car and you can get the condo association off your back.

I know you said you are disabled, but seeing as the car is parked in the same spot almost all the time, would you maybe be able to put a small piece of cardboard underneath the car with maybe a string where when you are leaving you could just fold it up and stuff it in the trunk and then lay it out once you get back? I know that is certainly less than desirable, but it would at least keep the condo association at bay until you get this sorted out.

 

I'm going to try a wire wheel and this and then some silicone. it's at least got to slow it down a bunch

JB Weld J-B Weld Clear Weld Epoxy Syringe 50112: Advance Auto Parts

 

There are two way to fix this: 1-If you can't replace the oil pan now and money is tight, drill the hole at the leak, tap the tread use a short screw with rubber washer clean around the hole smear some silicon on it and turn the screw in tight. 2- For best solution is to find a used oil pan on eBay to replace it with a new gasket, have to take the front cat out and drill the hole on the TC bracket.