Hello!

Well I recent changes my brakes/rotors due to wear and my wheel shuttering back and forth. I changed my rotors and brakes and it sees to be fine for a week then the shuttering came back and it's pretty bad my whole steering column shakes. Does Anyone any suggestions as to the problem?

 

Nox, as much as I hate to say this, but it sounds like you warped another rotor. I know this is hard to believe, but that is what it is sounding like.

Just to ask a silly question, but did you torque the lug nuts when you did the brake system work? I have seen where the lug nuts not being torqued evenly and then being subjected to a quick cooling by having the brakes warm and then getting splashed by a puddle will cause the rotor to warp very quickly.

I know this is not what you are wanting to hear, but you can try pulling the rotors off of the car and the using a metal straight edge, you can run the straight edge from say the 12 to 3 o'clock positions, 3 to 6, 6 to 9, and 9 to 12 and with the ruler in place, see if you can slide a 0.005" feeler gauge under the ruler. If you can, then the rotor is warped. You should be able to get the rotor turned and still be above minimum thickness. But, if you have gone for awhile with this, it may require a new rotor.

The other way to check the trueness of the rotor is to pull the tire off, but then put the lug nuts back on the car (done to clamp the rotor to the hub). From there, you can set up a depth mic against the shiny surface of the rotor (where the pad makes contact) and then rotate the rotor as you watch the depth mic. Again, if you see it moving more than say 0.005", the rotor is warped. Mark the rotor to make sure that it it changes by about the same amount every time you go past a certain point so you can rule out any variance due to you turning the rotor.

I wish the news was better, but that is what it is looking like.

 

So I have a warranty for the rotors so that should be covered if it warped ?

 

No I did not use a torque wrench just standard four way..

I notice when I'm braking at a slower speed, say 20mph and under I can feel the car slow in stutter motion like the brakes grab and let go grab and let go. Is that another indication of a warped rotor

These are premium ATE rotors I spent that extra to make sure I had no cheap issues..

 

You might have a caliper that is dragging on that wheel, and that can heat up a rotor pronto.

Just feeling the wheel with your hand after a few miles can answer the question. If it's hot, you will know it - it'll be hotter than hell.

Yes, a torque wrench is vital. I even carry mine in the trunk, just in case I ever have to change out a flat tire. When I use it, I tighten the nuts up in two or three steps, 1/2 torque to begin with, and full torque final.

Also, you must alternate the bolts you are tightening, using a "star" pattern. Just going in a circle - one bolt to the next bolt to the next, etc - will warp your wheels and/or rotors before you even drive the car. Every time.



Best 'o luck.

 

It is also important to recheck after 50-75 miles in the same pattern, especially on aluminum and magnesium wheels because they expand and contract more than steel or carbon composite wheels. That is why the disclaimer when you have them mounted or rotated at the shops.

 

Ok I'll have to get a torque wrench. But I'll check it again, my friend had a lift so ill check out the rotors.

Thanks