I Am Going In!

So there are a few quips with my car that are preventing me from passing emissions in VA. So I have brought it over to a buddy's and we're going under the hood commando style (with a side of bromance).

I am hoping that more experienced owners can give me tips, ideas, suggestions, recommendations on anything that I should try to address while I'm at it that will help the car and is still very economical. Ok, might as well be honest, I'm near broke so I need to stay on the cheap side.

Here are some details...
2002 jaguar X-type 3.0
105,000+ miles

Check Engine Codes...
P0117
P1647
P1111
P1796
I installed the workshop manual but I'm not very good at using it yet.

Other notable problems...
Fan never stops once key is set to On but there is no overheating or loss of coolant.
My gas mileage is horrendous and as low as 14mpg.

I appreciate any and all help and feedback.

 

Bump

Dang guys, no feedback at all?

 

notherids, the P1111 code is the normal code you should be wanting to see (says everything is good). The P0117 code is saying that your engine coolant temp circuit is seeing too low of a resistance. The P1796 code is saying that your throttle kick down circuit is not functioning properly. Code P1649 is a flash memory issue with the FCCP circuit.

Now, based on the randomness of these codes, I would be getting into the engine bay and looking over near the brake booster and checking out the cables in that area. To me, it sounds like you have a cable that has been rubbing up against a sharp edge and it is making intermittent grounds to the body of the car, leading to your trouble codes. Now, this point can be anywhere in the car, but past experience has shown it to be in this area normally.

As for cheap things to do to help the car pass VA inspection, do the simple checks. Make sure all of your lights work, the horn honks, brake pads have plenty of pad left, and the wipers work. The VA inspection isn't that big of a deal (lived in VA for 3 years). The hard part will be getting these codes to clear. But, this should be more time than anything since you will need to hand over hand all the wiring inside the engine bay more than likely till you find something bad.

 

Man! Now see this is why I knew I should ask for some advice. The previous time that the engine codes were checked I was told that the code was pointing to a faulty O2 Sensor and that was it. Now I get these new codes and couldn't understand why. I was about to buy both sensors but figured I should do a full check over and ask for opinions first. I'm glad I did. Thank you.

Could you give me a rough idea of where this "Brake Booster" area is? I have never heard of that. Just a rough idea and I'll focus my search all over that area. (i.e. if facing the car left of the engine towards front, at the bottom, etc)

Also, any other non-standard cheap but useful ideas to do inside the engine bay while I'm in there, that would be recommended for a 2002 with 100K miles? (i.e. replace gaskets, polish something, check some tubing, install H2O fuel system, etc) P.S. Remember that we are skilled but not professionals, but we also don't have to worry about labor costs since it's a DIY project.

 

You are "skilled" but you don't know where the brake booster is ... fascinating.

 

nootherids, the brake booster area is located right in front of where the driver sits, but in the engine bay. So, if you open the hood and are standing between the headlights, it would be in the far right corner of the engine bay. The area you want to specifically be looking at is the area between that and the battery (right behind the driver's side headlight). You will see an opening in that area. Look inside that opening.

As for other things to do, I would be looking at doing the plugs unless you know that they have been done recently. More time than effort. I did my car in like 90 minutes, but this also means pulling the top half of the intake off of the motor to access the rear plugs. If you have been driving the car for a bit, doing a fluid changeout on the transfer case would be advisable (if you do this and it is your first time doing it in this car, TALK TO US FIRST!!!!!!!!! Hint, hint, hint). After that, normal maintenance items.

 

So I did some testing yesterday and apparently I need to replace to Heated O2 Sensor (LH/Bank 2/1), the Fan Motor Control Module, and maybe the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor. If anybody has any links for the best/cheapest web site where I can buy these parts please do share. Somewhere with easy return policies would be great in case a part doesn't fix the problem.

Additionally, I have read throughout different forums that a common problem is the o-ring inside the throttle body and that it might need replacing. Does anyone else vouch for this being a common problem? And what other commonly problematic items should I change while in there? (i.e. gaskets, vacuum lines, belts, tubes, etc.)

I know the spark plugs and entire coolant were changed less than 40K miles ago. But I was wondering if there were any other gaskets or tubes that I should replace while my car's in the operating room. I'd like to order everything at once and install it all at once. (Fuel Pump was also replaced less than 10K miles ago)

P.S. Does anybody know what is the screw bit that locks the ECM (Engine Control Module) in place? It's a 5 star with a dot in the middle.

P.P.S. Anybody know a way to take out the HO2 Sensor without having to buy that special took listed in the workshop manual (Snap-on socket S6176)? Buying expensive tools for one time use sucks.

 

nootherids, as for the special tool, talk to your local auto parts store. You may be able to rent the tool for the afternoon. Normally they will rent it and once all is said and done, the tool rental is free. Worst case, that tool is only like $20. Not that expensive if you get a non-Snap-On one. If you were a little closer, I would tell you to come over and grab mine. But, a 2 hour drive may be a little bit much for just a tool.

As for the special bit that holds the ECM in place, I would tell you to get your hands on a set of jeweler's screwdrivers (flat blades). Then select the right size that sits between two of the points and rests against the center post. The fastener that you are seeing is a security fastener. I have to work with them all the time with my job (gotta love working on security equipment). Granted, are you sure it is a 5 pointed star. Normally they are a 6 pointed star. If you do some looking around, you can normally find the security bits for sale. Look on e-bay. That is where I picked up my last set. Was like $10 delivered to the house.

 

"You are "skilled" but you don't know where the brake booster is ... fascinating."

Give the guy a break....Everyone has to start somewhere, and where better than an X-type? No more difficult than a Ford, for obvious reasons....
Much cheaper learning curve on an X, than on an XK or XJ...

 

Meh. I didn't even bother responding because he obviously didn't even bother reading my original post where I mentioned that was friend was helping. When I mentioned it to him he knew exactly what I was talking about.thanks for the backup though.

I recently inspected all the codes and tested them myself ( with my friend helping me along the way). Took me like 2 hours to figure out how to read the workshop manual but once I got it it was very good with step by step instructions.

I narrowed it down to having to replace the LH Bank 2/1 O2 Sensor, the ECT, and fan motor control module. But I am having a hard time finding a place where I can order all of those. O2 is easy, the other two not so much.

And btw, yes the ECM (EN-16 , Engine Control Module) is held in place with a 5-Star tamper resistant screw which I have not been able to identify and my local Napa auto stores does not carry any.