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Thinking about an X-Type for daily commuter

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Old 09-21-2013, 12:39 AM
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Default Thinking about an X-Type for daily commuter

So I need opinions...

I currently have a newer Jaguar XK that I absolutely love. It's an outstanding car and I couldn't be happier. I've recently taken a job that will involve a 4x longer commute than my current one and I just don't have the heart to put all those miles on my beautiful XK (it's a car I plan in keeping for a long long time).

So here is my situation: I'm blessed enough that the new job pays so well I can throw $5000-$6,000 at a spare car just to put the miles on. I thought about something like a Ford Ranger pick-up but that just sounds boring. My wife said since you love Jags so much why not get a cheap X-Type or S-Type. I've looked at the S-Type and it's just not for me. The X-Type or even the X-Type S is what really appeals to me. It seems like in that budget I've allotted I wouldn't have a problem finding a 03/04 X-Type with 80,000-100,000 miles. I'm not trying to "hyper-mile" on fuel, but I don't want something that's going to absolutely suck on fuel economy either.

1) Is an X-Type with that many miles something I really want to get into? Are there any model years to avoid? I don't mind more expensive maint. (I'm used to it with the XK) but I don't want something that is prone to known issues and constant repair bills. I can do a lot of the repairs myself and I'm not looking for anything perfect.

2) I'm 6'4 and I've heard the X-Type can be a little cramped for space for taller people. Is that true?

3) What is the difference between the X-Type and the X-Type Sport? I've always loved the Sport's looks.

4) If I decide to go the X-Type route what are some known issues I should look for when shopping? Any luck buying one off Craigslist?

I know that's a lot to cover, but I really need some good input from current owners.
 
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Old 09-21-2013, 04:22 AM
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1) Like all cars, with more miles more stuff has to be done and thus likely has been done. The first few model years had a viscous coupling in the transfer case, and the transfer case itself is considered the weak link in the car. The later model years omitted the viscous coupling and the transfer case is supposedly more reliable. Tricky thing is, the change occured at some point in 2004 in Europe, but our first model year was 2001 while yours in the US was 2002.
If AWD performance matters to you and you want a non-VC car, make absolutely certain it has actual traction control. It's easy to tell; it should have a button near the gear stick which in other cars is just a coin holder. You can see the coin holder in one of the photos in my signature.
Also, I'm under the impression that reliability improved over the years, just as with almost every car model.

2) I'm 183cm tall which translates roughly into 6ft, and I have the seat at its lowest position. I recently cut my long hair short, and now that my strong roots are taking over my hair is standing up a bit (I'd say it adds 2 inches at most), and it actually touches the grab handle in the ceiling. Go and have a seat in one, the best way to make sure.

3) The Sport has slightly less ground clearance and stiffer suspension. In the exterior they have less chrome or none at all (bumper blades, grille, boot plinth, window surrounds). Interior varies, some sport specs have a wood veneer not found on any other cars (grey wood), some have half-leather seats (sitting surfaces cloth). The sport wasn't the top-spec equipment-wise, so if you go for one make sure it has all the stuff you want.

4) Any noises from the drivetrain should be a turn-off. That being said, there's a carrier bearing on the propshaft that is known to start making horrible whiny noises in colder temperatures (winter-time basically). That one is harmless but still extremely annoying.
The more technically-oriented people can chime in now to answer this bit in more depth
 
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Old 09-21-2013, 09:50 AM
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zman, the X-Type can be a nice car or it can drive you to the poor house. You have to ask how you plan on driving it. If you plan on driving it sporty to get the same performance like your XK has, you are going to feel the money getting sucked out of your wallet. You drive it sensibly and get out on the highway to set the cruise at 70ish, the car will last out to 300,000 miles easy. So, how do you see yourself driving the car?

As for room, I tend to drive with the seat very upright and being 6 foot, I can feel my hair barely touching the ceiling. So, I think if you lay the seat back even a very little bit, you will have no issues. But, like was mentioned, sit in one and make sure.

Do not worry so much about whether it has the 2.5L or 3.0L motor as both move the car decently and both are going to get about 23 mpg with mixed driving. If you are doing 90% highway, you can expect to get up to around 25-27 mpg. The big difference between the two motors is the 3.0L you can depress the gas slightly, it will remain in the same gear and you will be able to pass someone. Where, the 2.5L, you will need to depress the gas a little further to get it to downshift, get the RPMs up, then the car will have the power to get around and pass someone.

If you have more questions, just ask. Granted, for a little bit more, you can find yourself say a 2000 XJ and then use that as your daily commuter. Nicer ride, will get about the same mileage and keep all the creature comforts of your XK. Just a thought. The only downside is that the X-Type is AWD, so, during the winter, the X-Type is going to be a little more stable in the snow.
 
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Old 09-21-2013, 10:08 AM
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zmman, I have both, 07 X-type and 97 XK8. The x Type is, as Thermo says, a good car if you drive it sensibly and maintain it.
 
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Old 09-21-2013, 10:55 AM
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Wow, thanks for all the great info guys! It seems like everyone is way more thorough and helpful here than the XK forum.

To answer your questions:

- This is strictly a commuter car so there will be no spirited driving. It will be all interstate miles. The problem is I the did pervious owner do the same thing?

- From what I gather the prime spot would be a 2004 with the newer transfer case (the traction control button)?

- What kind of noise should I be looking for from the transfer case to tell if there is a problem?

- Has anyone ever asked to have the car checked out by the dealership before they bought it and if so, how much did they charge?

End the end I just don't want to drop $6,000 for a commuter car just to have to drop another 3K in repairs in a couple of months.
 
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Old 09-21-2013, 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by zman112233
Wow, thanks for all the great info guys! It seems like everyone is way more thorough and helpful here than the XK forum.

To answer your questions:

- This is strictly a commuter car so there will be no spirited driving. It will be all interstate miles. The problem is I the did pervious owner do the same thing?

- From what I gather the prime spot would be a 2004 with the newer transfer case (the traction control button)?

- What kind of noise should I be looking for from the transfer case to tell if there is a problem?

- Has anyone ever asked to have the car checked out by the dealership before they bought it and if so, how much did they charge?

End the end I just don't want to drop $6,000 for a commuter car just to have to drop another 3K in repairs in a couple of months.
Heh, I think part of the reason the X-Type section is so doing so good is that it's the most numerous and popular (and cheapest) model. There's simply a lot of people around all the time.

There were quite a few changes to the X in the 2004ish facelift; easiest-to -notice are the updated steering wheel (control buttons now on the upper spokes rather than separate-seeming modules between the upper and lower spokes) and new trunk lid plinth (release button underneath the plinth rather than the early round green button like this < J A G o U A R > ).
However, I'm not entirely sure whether a 2004 car with those quickly-spotted changes is certain to have the changed transfer case as well.

Indeed, the earlier transfer case is considered by some to have superior AWD performance since it uses the viscous coupling to prevent speed difference between the front and the rear from growing. Without the VC, you'll have 3 open differentials (front, middle, rear) and if a single wheel starts spinning, all power goes that way and you won't go anywhere. The traction control -equipped models fix this by applying ABS to the spinning wheel(s), forcing power to other wheels. Early sport models can have both the VC and the traction control, to my knowledge. Also, an early car may have had the transfer case replaced at some point! Well, If you don't drive in slippery conditions, this stuff matters little.

I have had no issues with my transfer case, and my car is a 2001, so it's not entirely a case of "it'll blow up in your face"
Here's what I so far know, problems & what-to-dos:
  • Very good AWD grip means a pretty much a complete lack of wheelspin (unless in snow, ice, etc), which then means that all the stress from really quick take-offs will be put on the drivetrain since there's no wheelspin as a "safety outlet".
    • Don't drive in an unseemly fashion
  • The transfer case holds a very tiny amount of oil in it
    • Check and change oil every 1-2 years
  • The transfer case may flex slightly under high stress, which can cause cracking. I've never seen photos of such, only heard, but cracks would then of course lead to the little oil leaking out.
  • The propshaft seal can have some issues, though there should be a valid fix for it. Any leak through that route is fairly small; I lost something like 50-100 milliliters of the total 600+ in 1.5 years.
  • The transfer case gets hot because it's near the engine, exhaust manifold, cats and has no active cooling
    • Consider fitting the transfer case cooling duct that curiously most X-Types are missing, part number is C2S18834, you'll also require 1x bolt C2C32665. These are ripped off very easily by speed bumps and such.
EDIT:
Tiny update; apparently my propshaft seal is not leaking, technically (it has been glue-fixed earlier). The "leak" appears now to be caused by a clogged breather vent at the top of the transfer case, which thus prevents air from escaping the case when the oil gets hot and pressure starts to rise, thus the pressure blows excess oil through the seal. Nasty thing is, while a new vent is really cheap, it's apparently impossible to get to it without removing the transfer case from the car, which translates into about 6 hours of work...
 

Last edited by Aonsaithya; 01-04-2014 at 07:52 AM.
  #7  
Old 09-29-2013, 07:05 AM
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I've had my X for about two years now. I picked it up from a dealer who took it in as a trade-in. It was an impulse buy! I was driving by in my Volvo and saw it on the lot. All black on black and looking cool. I drove it and took it away for $5000.

I've had a few problems. The ABS light has been on ever since I bought the car. It's the oil pressure switch on the module. A little plastic part thats almost $300. I'm on the list at my local scrap yards for a new one! So I live with it.

I replaced the rotors and pads for an aftermarket slotted set from ebay. I've very happy with the results. And it was an easy job. All four corners done in a morning.

My biggest complaint is the lack of quality of the interior. Most of it is 'Ford' and living in Florida gets abused by the heat. The plastic cracks and distorts.

I use mine as a commuter car. It's nice on the freeway. The seats are bucket and tend to wrap around your behind. So if you are a larger guy this could be uncomfortable.

I invested on the ACM kit which allows you to play ipods and the like. Best thing I bought.

It's certainly not a powerful car. All the power is above 3000 rpm. And the auto box, even in sport, doesn't take advantage of the power available. If you can find a 5 speed manual get it. I use the manual side of the J gate all the time.

The ride sucks compared with anything else! It has hard suspension and low profile tires. So don't get out of an XJ and expect a Jag ride in the X.

I've read about transfer cases exploding! But mines been fine. In fact I had mine on a ramp recently getting an oil change and it's bone dry underneath.

I did have the oil sump gasket changed. Thats an all day job costing me $700. The darn sump is blocked by the transfer case.

But it's a reliable. cheap good looking car.
 
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