My car wouldn’t start and the computer indicated that the throttle body was the problem.
The mechanic checked and confirmed it. It makes a noise and ‘coughs’ when the car is idling cold, sounds like it is going to stall.
The spark plugs have also got fouled up as it has been a problem for a while.
The part (C2S47882) is no longer available and I could not find a used one after an extensive search.
I was wondering what are my options?
I see on another thread that cleaning the TB is not advisable but when I serviced the car a year ago, they cleaned it out.

 

Crandell, I have played with the throttle body some. As for the "not cleaning" bit, that was true when your car was new. There was an "anti-fouling" clear coat put on the throttle body to prevent oil/dirt/sludge build up. But, by this point, all that clear is has been worn away and you can clean it all you want. If you do clean it, make sure you get the edge of the butterfly valve (the silver disk in the center). This can get some gum build up on it and can cause the throttle body to stick.

As for your actual problem, I would first try cleaning the throttle body. But, if that doesn't help, then you will be breaking into the throttle body and most likely needing to install some new brushes. I have seen where these will get worn and they don't get the proper pressure applied to the drive motor of the throttle body. This will cause the throttle body to do strange things. To get into the throttle body, you WILL!!!! need to get some specialty tools. Specifically, you are going to need a set of security torx bits. These are going to be a 5 pointed torx bit. I don't recall the exact size (T15?). That will be needed to open up the throttle body. Once you get get the screws loose, it will come apart in a few large pieces. The trick will be getting it back together. The trick is you need to push the brushes back into their holders as you slide the rotor into place. There is a trick to it, but I don't recall it off hand. So, I would say to check the local wrecking yards and get another throttle body to play with before you rip your primary one apart. It will be money well spent. If you do some looking, there should be some posts from the past that will give you some more information. It has been awhile since I have played with this.

 

I would personally shoot a guy who made decision to use 5-pointed torx!!!
Wait a minute, I would torture him first!
flat screwdriver works fine most of the time to remove ECM bolt.

 

car5car, they have to do something to make you come to the dealership. Granted, the torx bits can be gotten at a place like e-bay for fairly cheap. So, it isn't a complete show stopper, but does slow you down some.

 

Thanks for all the info. I won't be attempting this myself, but will pass this information to the mechanic who normally does work on the car. If he can't service such a part I will ask at a more specialist shop.

 

I encountered some issues a few years back with my throttle body and ended up replacing it twice before figuring out the actual problem. I was getting a fault code and it would go into "limp mode" (not sure if you are experiencing the same). To add to Thermos feedback, also check the voltage going to the throttle body from the harness plug. In my case one of the wires was loose and not connecting well which was causing a change in the constant voltage. If the computer sees a change outside of tolerance, which I believe is a very minimal allowance, then it will throw a code and go into limp mode.

 

I took the car to a workshop to be checked. When they did the diagnostics check, it didn’t give the throttle body warning.
The mechanic tried a few things: checked there was no vacuum leak; cleaned throttle body and also did a flush with ‘blue chem’. The problem persisted.
He contacted someone else and they said it is most likely a coil problem, so he is going to order new coils and try that.

 

I always clean throttle with brake cleaner, I open it with screwdriver and spray.

 

How was it diagnosed to be a coil? If a coil was bad that would certainly cause the check engine light to come on and a code would be thrown.

 

@car5, just because you do something, doesn't make it right nor intelligent. Aren't you the same dandy who stuck a plain rubber hose on his brake booster without the valve for $ savings and expedience? Thereby potentially endangering anyone driving near you at highway speeds? Kill yourself, your fault, but killing someone else is unforgivable.

 

I think the electrician was using a generic application and the problem was diagnosed as throttle body but in fact it wasn't. The workshop had proper equipment but didn't pick up anything definite. They confirmed the uneven idling and slow response when accelerating. The manager knew a person with Jaguar experience and was advised that it is likely to be a coil problem. The coils were checked and replaced, and that has solved the problem. The spark plugs were still fine (I thought they may have got fouled up as a side-effect).
So maybe a lesson for me is to find a specialist who can diagnose better the first time.
The coolant is now going down much faster than normal (fitted a new water bottle a few months ago), so I will be looking at the relevant thread for advice!

 

In addition to the reservoir and that area, check the front "T" of the plastic thermostat housing hose. It splits on top because of an inherent design flaw.

I tried a fix but it failed.

 

Also check the water pump. If that is leaking you are living on borrowed time. Seems like their useful life is about 90K-100K miles. And also check the top nipple of the reservoir tank. If you oriented the clamp with the excess to the hood side, the hood can push down on it when closed breaking that nipple at the seam of the tank.

 

Couldn't see anything obvious, but some residue where the pipe joins. The workshop checked it and said the pipe needed replacing, which they did. Looks like that was the problem, luckily not a big job.