Throttle Body question
#1
Throttle Body question
I have been having a problem with a very rough start issue with my Jaguar X-type 2002 2.5 litre When the car warms up she goes just fine.
I took it to a shop yesterday and they said the Throttle Body was shot and going haywire on startup. They also mentioned they got no reading on the mass airflow sensor.
The upshot is they wanted $2,200 for the throttle body part alone! I have seen the price of this part between $500-$700 new on the internet.
They also mentioned the whole Accelerator Pedal Assembly would also have to be replaced because the old one will not work with the new throttle body, along with a new mass airflow sensor.
My question is if the Throttle Body or the attached sensor is broken along with mass airflow sensor why would the car run fine when warm. Anyone else had this problem or can offer a opinion?
I was quoted $2,800 to fix it which seems excessive to me. I do not want to spend that kind of money on a car this old.
I took it to a shop yesterday and they said the Throttle Body was shot and going haywire on startup. They also mentioned they got no reading on the mass airflow sensor.
The upshot is they wanted $2,200 for the throttle body part alone! I have seen the price of this part between $500-$700 new on the internet.
They also mentioned the whole Accelerator Pedal Assembly would also have to be replaced because the old one will not work with the new throttle body, along with a new mass airflow sensor.
My question is if the Throttle Body or the attached sensor is broken along with mass airflow sensor why would the car run fine when warm. Anyone else had this problem or can offer a opinion?
I was quoted $2,800 to fix it which seems excessive to me. I do not want to spend that kind of money on a car this old.
#2
I would suggest you get yourself a basic OBD scanner, connect it up and see if there are any fault codes. Report those codes back here and there are many members who will be able to give you some sound unbiased advice on what to do next. If you'd rather, find a garage/mechanic who will read the codes for you.
Almost certainly there's a more economic solution than the one you've been offered.
In the meantime check that the wiring harness connectors to the throttle body and MAF are clean, bright and tight!
Almost certainly there's a more economic solution than the one you've been offered.
In the meantime check that the wiring harness connectors to the throttle body and MAF are clean, bright and tight!
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Panamahat (12-30-2014)
#3
Thanks astromorg!
I would suggest you get yourself a basic OBD scanner, connect it up and see if there are any fault codes. Report those codes back here and there are many members who will be able to give you some sound unbiased advice on what to do next. If you'd rather, find a garage/mechanic who will read the codes for you.
Almost certainly there's a more economic solution than the one you've been offered.
In the meantime check that the wiring harness connectors to the throttle body and MAF are clean, bright and tight!
Almost certainly there's a more economic solution than the one you've been offered.
In the meantime check that the wiring harness connectors to the throttle body and MAF are clean, bright and tight!
#4
#5
If you get the right throttle body you do not have to replace anything but the TB itself. The ECU does not need to learn the new throttle body, it is just plug and play. ...was for me anyway.
It has four bolts and is an easy R&R. When I disconnected the fuel lines I used a couple of AA batteries to plug them while the TB was out.
It has four bolts and is an easy R&R. When I disconnected the fuel lines I used a couple of AA batteries to plug them while the TB was out.
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Panamahat (12-30-2014)
#7
[QUOTE=Patterson;1129752]If you get the right throttle body you do not have to replace anything but the TB itself. The ECU does not need to learn the new throttle body, it is just plug and play. ...was for me anyway.
Hi
Thanks for the info. It looks like you replaced yours. I have been looking on the internet for pricing. Local repair shops are quoting me $1500 one guy even said $2,200 just for the part alone. I found one online parts dealer.
Auto Parts, Buy Car Parts, Automotive Accessories - Buy Auto Parts
They have a throttle body that they claim is OEM new for $529. I looked them up on the BBB and there are complaints about wrong parts or parts that do not work.
Do you mind telling me how much you paid for yours?
Thanks Chris
Hi
Thanks for the info. It looks like you replaced yours. I have been looking on the internet for pricing. Local repair shops are quoting me $1500 one guy even said $2,200 just for the part alone. I found one online parts dealer.
Auto Parts, Buy Car Parts, Automotive Accessories - Buy Auto Parts
They have a throttle body that they claim is OEM new for $529. I looked them up on the BBB and there are complaints about wrong parts or parts that do not work.
Do you mind telling me how much you paid for yours?
Thanks Chris
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#8
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Panama, before you go replacing the complete throttlebody, humor me. Go to the auto parts store and get yourself a can of "throttle body cleaner" (not carb cleaner, slightly different). Remove the inlet air tube and holding the butterfly valve (large silver disk in the center that is blocking the air flow) open, spray the throttlebody cleaner in there and wash away all the brown that you see. Pay special attention to the "sharp edge" of the throttlebody and make sure to get that clean. It could be nothing more than you have a lot of build up inside the throttlebody and it is sticking when it is cold.
On a side note, you may find that the car will not start (especially true if you use most of the can). Do not worry, you have essentially flooded the engine. To get past this, get into the driver's seat and depress the gas pedal all the way down and with it depressed, attempt to start the car. The act of "flooring the engine" as you start it actually turns off the fuel injectors and it will clear whatever is in the engine and once you feel the engine starting to catch from the cleaner, ease off the gas to bring it up to idle. See what you have at that point.
On a side note, you may find that the car will not start (especially true if you use most of the can). Do not worry, you have essentially flooded the engine. To get past this, get into the driver's seat and depress the gas pedal all the way down and with it depressed, attempt to start the car. The act of "flooring the engine" as you start it actually turns off the fuel injectors and it will clear whatever is in the engine and once you feel the engine starting to catch from the cleaner, ease off the gas to bring it up to idle. See what you have at that point.
#9
Hi Chris, I went thru the dealer parts counter who I had a good relationship with. I paid $1,000 for a new TB in the box. I understand they can be had cheaper, but I got the right part form the dealer and it worked perfectly. My car's symptoms were wild idle that would run thru 900 RPMs to 2000RPMs, up and down repeatedly. Driving was pretty hard with lots of jerky stop and go. The car was drivable but no fun. This was about 2 yrs ago, I replaced the TB and haven't looked back since; car runs great.
Here's the kicker tho. The service adviser first quoted me $2,200 for a new TB installed with no guarantee that this was going to fix the problem. This was not the parts counter guy I know. In any case, like Thermo mentioned, you want to be sure that your problem is with the TB and attached TPS.
There is more Throttle Body talk in this thread:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-2004-a-81565/
Here's the kicker tho. The service adviser first quoted me $2,200 for a new TB installed with no guarantee that this was going to fix the problem. This was not the parts counter guy I know. In any case, like Thermo mentioned, you want to be sure that your problem is with the TB and attached TPS.
There is more Throttle Body talk in this thread:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-2004-a-81565/
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Panamahat (12-31-2014)
#10
Hi Chris, I went thru the dealer parts counter who I had a good relationship with. I paid $1,000 for a new TB in the box. I understand they can be had cheaper, but I got the right part form the dealer and it worked perfectly. My car's symptoms were wild idle that would run thru 900 RPMs to 2000RPMs, up and down repeatedly. Driving was pretty hard with lots of jerky stop and go. The car was drivable but no fun. This was about 2 yrs ago, I replaced the TB and haven't looked back since; car runs great.
Here's the kicker tho. The service adviser first quoted me $2,200 for a new TB installed with no guarantee that this was going to fix the problem. This was not the parts counter guy I know. In any case, like Thermo mentioned, you want to be sure that your problem is with the TB and attached TPS.
There is more Throttle Body talk in this thread:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-2004-a-81565/
Here's the kicker tho. The service adviser first quoted me $2,200 for a new TB installed with no guarantee that this was going to fix the problem. This was not the parts counter guy I know. In any case, like Thermo mentioned, you want to be sure that your problem is with the TB and attached TPS.
There is more Throttle Body talk in this thread:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-2004-a-81565/
Oddly my car runs great when it warms up to normal operating temperature unlike yours. You mentioned Driving was pretty hard with lots of jerky stop and go. At least your symptoms were consistent which would indicate the throttle body or sensor were out of whack.
I asked the mechanic that diagnosed the throttle body problem why the car runs fine when warm and he gave me a vague answer about it coming to.
He did mention that the car will just start to suddenly stall and sure enough today it stalled while idling.
He also mentioned he could get no reading on the mass airflow sensor so I am replacing that as its a fairly cheap part.
I want to thank all who have commented on this post. It's been a real education trying to fix my car. There are 3 lessons I have taken away from this.
1. When you take a jag to a repair shop they act and assume that you should pay absurdly inflated prices, as though you have a dollar sign painted on your forehead.
2. They are likely clueless on how to fix a jag even though they claim they can.
3. I will in future source my own parts and only pay for labor. I was quoted $315 for labor alone with no guarantee on the labor to replace the throttle body and mass airflow sensor. A job that appears to me to be only unscrewing a few screws and bolts and electrical connections.
#11
#12
I hate shops because there is usually no talent for troubleshooting on the floor. Honestly, I usually run into 'parts installers' at shops and not actual mechanics that can diagnose a problem and give several options on how to proceed. The shotgun approach indeed, with money being no object is par for the course.
Considering the high price I paid for my TB, I tried everything else first. PVC, MAF, TB cleaner, reset ECU, check wiring and cleaned electrical connections, thorough check for vacuum leaks, new gas cap, etc.
None of those worked, but after replacing the TB I had a pretty tight ship as far as those related items were concerned.
For codes, my CEL would come on periodically then go out, I ran the codes but don't remember the numbers, but they mostly indicated TB.
Cruise control was available but not reliable and one jerk with cruise on at 70mph was enough for me to stop using it. I drove the car for about a week in this condition, then I bit the bullet.
Btw, the popping sounds that appear to be coming from the cylinders on your car concern me. Could this be a timing issue, mis-fire, spark plug coils, spark plug wires, or water in your gas tank? Ha ha, I don't want to send you off on a tangent, but the popping sound is strange. What grade of fuel do you use?
Good luck, let us know what you do.
Considering the high price I paid for my TB, I tried everything else first. PVC, MAF, TB cleaner, reset ECU, check wiring and cleaned electrical connections, thorough check for vacuum leaks, new gas cap, etc.
None of those worked, but after replacing the TB I had a pretty tight ship as far as those related items were concerned.
For codes, my CEL would come on periodically then go out, I ran the codes but don't remember the numbers, but they mostly indicated TB.
Cruise control was available but not reliable and one jerk with cruise on at 70mph was enough for me to stop using it. I drove the car for about a week in this condition, then I bit the bullet.
Btw, the popping sounds that appear to be coming from the cylinders on your car concern me. Could this be a timing issue, mis-fire, spark plug coils, spark plug wires, or water in your gas tank? Ha ha, I don't want to send you off on a tangent, but the popping sound is strange. What grade of fuel do you use?
Good luck, let us know what you do.
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Panamahat (01-01-2015)
#13
Btw, the popping sounds that appear to be coming from the cylinders on your car concern me. Could this be a timing issue, mis-fire, spark plug coils, spark plug wires, or water in your gas tank? Ha ha, I don't want to send you off on a tangent, but the popping sound is strange. What grade of fuel do you use?
Good luck, let us know what you do.[/QUOTE]
I only use premium gas. I have put in new premium plugs and replaced one coil that went bad. I insisted on a OEM Lucas coil $125. I later looked on Autozone and found I could have bought a set of 6 coils for a jag for $125 for all 6 of them ha, ha.
Speaking of shops and labor costs please see my new post in the X Type forum
Useful link AutoMD
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...automd-133943/
I think you may find it very enlightening.
Chris
Good luck, let us know what you do.[/QUOTE]
I only use premium gas. I have put in new premium plugs and replaced one coil that went bad. I insisted on a OEM Lucas coil $125. I later looked on Autozone and found I could have bought a set of 6 coils for a jag for $125 for all 6 of them ha, ha.
Speaking of shops and labor costs please see my new post in the X Type forum
Useful link AutoMD
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...automd-133943/
I think you may find it very enlightening.
Chris
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Patterson (01-01-2015)
#14
Followup
I was told by a mechanic that my throttle body was shot along with the oxygen sensor.
I replaced the sensor.
I read on the forum to first try cleaning the old throttle body I did that and it did not work.
Well I bought a new throttle body from buyautoparts.com. I took it to one shop to install but they said they needed to flash the on board computer to recognize the new part. Cost $300 just for that, not including labor.
I read here the part is basically plug and play part so I had another guy install it.
He disconnected the battery first so the computer would hard reset.
The new throttle body made the car idle to fast about 1200 rpm she was really straining. Worse as soon as the new throttle body was installed the check engine light came on and a general gearbox fault appeared on the dash.
His diagnostic tool showed wrong throttle angle. He tried manually adjusting the sensor but there was no change. He put the old throttle body back in but the check engine light stayed on and now the car bucks hard if I put it in gear.
Lastly the car won't start as one of the connecters to the throttle body broke so it's not making a good connection. He is trying to locate a used one, as of course this is not a standard part but unique to Jaguar.
All in all a complete nightmare I am ready to write off the whole car.
I replaced the sensor.
I read on the forum to first try cleaning the old throttle body I did that and it did not work.
Well I bought a new throttle body from buyautoparts.com. I took it to one shop to install but they said they needed to flash the on board computer to recognize the new part. Cost $300 just for that, not including labor.
I read here the part is basically plug and play part so I had another guy install it.
He disconnected the battery first so the computer would hard reset.
The new throttle body made the car idle to fast about 1200 rpm she was really straining. Worse as soon as the new throttle body was installed the check engine light came on and a general gearbox fault appeared on the dash.
His diagnostic tool showed wrong throttle angle. He tried manually adjusting the sensor but there was no change. He put the old throttle body back in but the check engine light stayed on and now the car bucks hard if I put it in gear.
Lastly the car won't start as one of the connecters to the throttle body broke so it's not making a good connection. He is trying to locate a used one, as of course this is not a standard part but unique to Jaguar.
All in all a complete nightmare I am ready to write off the whole car.
#15
This is an "old" thread of mine. They were a great company to work with.
Been meaning to let the Forum users know about a great company for rebuilt throttle bodies. Jatan Industries in Orange, CA has rebuilt x-type throttle bodies for about $399.00 including shipping. Their service was FABULOUS, called on a Tuesday and gave them my TB casting number (needed to match the TB with your specfic car) and to my surprise it was on my doorstep the next day, can you say WOW. Installed the rebuilt TB and sent the old one back. Their number is (888)652-4JATAN or (714)639-1109. On another note, evidentially they rebuild TB’s for a multitude of different makes and models of autos (Volvo, Land Rover, Saab, etc.).
Been meaning to let the Forum users know about a great company for rebuilt throttle bodies. Jatan Industries in Orange, CA has rebuilt x-type throttle bodies for about $399.00 including shipping. Their service was FABULOUS, called on a Tuesday and gave them my TB casting number (needed to match the TB with your specfic car) and to my surprise it was on my doorstep the next day, can you say WOW. Installed the rebuilt TB and sent the old one back. Their number is (888)652-4JATAN or (714)639-1109. On another note, evidentially they rebuild TB’s for a multitude of different makes and models of autos (Volvo, Land Rover, Saab, etc.).
#16
Panama, sorry to hear about your recent woes. Find out the code numbers your mechanic says he was getting and post here. That way it would be easier for others to assess and assist you rather than trying to help based on the symptoms you are having. If there is anything I have learned over the years being a member here is if you can give a code chances are it has been discussed here and can be accurately addressed pretty quickly. It might not necessarily be a quick or cheap fix, but often times is.
Did the mechanic break the connector? If so, hope he is taking responsibility for that. That alone could be the source of your problems.
Hang in there. I know it is frustrating but hopefully it can get sorted soon.
Did the mechanic break the connector? If so, hope he is taking responsibility for that. That alone could be the source of your problems.
Hang in there. I know it is frustrating but hopefully it can get sorted soon.
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