Transfer case gasket?
#1
Transfer case gasket?
Im replacing the transfer case fluid soon and i noticed that the transfer case is leaking thru the gasket, so since im gonna be down there i'll replace everything. Just wondering if they even sell that gasket and how easy it is to replace if anyone's done it before.
Thanks
Thanks
#6
#7
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#10
SilverCat,
It is my experience with the TC and this location that may be of some interest to you. First, there are no published torque specs for the 4 bolts that hold that housing on. Second, that housing has an extremely snug fit, it will not just pop apart. Third, there is a large gear attached to the "nut" inside the Prop Shaft collar. This nut is also Torque'd to unknown specifications.
I opened mine with a torque wrench and it was around 22ft/lbs for the 4 main bolts that hold the housing on. I could never get a good reading on the nut inside the Prop Shaft collar. KEEP in mind that the nut in the Prop Shaft collar is torque'd to PRE-LOAD a bearing inside. DON'T mess with it if at all possible.
Drop the Prop Shaft in the rear and center and support it under the car. DO NOT remove the front connection. Using a torque wrench, undo the 4 housing bolts and make note of the tongue setting. Use the Prop Shaft as a slide hammer to pop loose the housing enough to install O-ring, of course you will have to remove the front Prop Shaft connection at this point. There is also a spacer in there around the 4 main bolts. On mine it has a raised tab that aligns on the raised tab of the TC.
I don't believe you can purchase the o-ring from Jaguar. You may find yourself looking to suppliers who sell o-rings.
Sometimes bolts simply loosen themselves from stress. Use a torque wrench and see what your bolts break over torque is at, if lower that 22ft/lbs, re-torque bolts and then check seal for leaks.
It is my experience with the TC and this location that may be of some interest to you. First, there are no published torque specs for the 4 bolts that hold that housing on. Second, that housing has an extremely snug fit, it will not just pop apart. Third, there is a large gear attached to the "nut" inside the Prop Shaft collar. This nut is also Torque'd to unknown specifications.
I opened mine with a torque wrench and it was around 22ft/lbs for the 4 main bolts that hold the housing on. I could never get a good reading on the nut inside the Prop Shaft collar. KEEP in mind that the nut in the Prop Shaft collar is torque'd to PRE-LOAD a bearing inside. DON'T mess with it if at all possible.
Drop the Prop Shaft in the rear and center and support it under the car. DO NOT remove the front connection. Using a torque wrench, undo the 4 housing bolts and make note of the tongue setting. Use the Prop Shaft as a slide hammer to pop loose the housing enough to install O-ring, of course you will have to remove the front Prop Shaft connection at this point. There is also a spacer in there around the 4 main bolts. On mine it has a raised tab that aligns on the raised tab of the TC.
I don't believe you can purchase the o-ring from Jaguar. You may find yourself looking to suppliers who sell o-rings.
Sometimes bolts simply loosen themselves from stress. Use a torque wrench and see what your bolts break over torque is at, if lower that 22ft/lbs, re-torque bolts and then check seal for leaks.
#11
I got my oring at the dealer.
the housing is not tight in the transfer case, it should come apart easily (tap with rubber mallet). The prop shaft has CV type joints, I would not use the shaft as a slide hammer, there are enough problems with these shafts without abusing them.
There is no need to undo the big nut inside the flange.
The drain plug is not at the lowest point of the TC, you only get about 400 of th 600 ml out. If you undo the rear housing, then you get all but 50ml out.
M8 bolts usually torque from 20-22 Nm. and there is nothing out of the ordinary with these ones.
the housing is not tight in the transfer case, it should come apart easily (tap with rubber mallet). The prop shaft has CV type joints, I would not use the shaft as a slide hammer, there are enough problems with these shafts without abusing them.
There is no need to undo the big nut inside the flange.
The drain plug is not at the lowest point of the TC, you only get about 400 of th 600 ml out. If you undo the rear housing, then you get all but 50ml out.
M8 bolts usually torque from 20-22 Nm. and there is nothing out of the ordinary with these ones.
#12
O-ring at dealer? Whos you're dealer, I would like to get my hands on one. That's good to know. You are absolutely correct, there is no reason to mess with the nut inside the Prop Shaft collar. I was trying to give SilverCat a warning. I had my TC on the bench and that housing was a $#%^ to get out of TC. This is why I thought using the drive shaft as an aid, ie like a slide hammer, to pull out the gear housing. All advice I give is done with the frame of mind that an ape is not going to attempt these types of repairs and will be gentle with all components. Sorry for the confusion.
#13
Thanks for all the responses. What im going to do is see if i can tighten those bolts a little more if its needed, if not then ill just change the gear oil, clean up the leak marks and see if it leaks again and how much it does. If it does leak again ill replace the ring or maybe just separate it a little bit and apply silicone gasket, i know its a messy bandaid but i dont feel confident messing around with driveshafts since ive never touched one, all my work was done on front wheel drive cars. I have the feeling that my transfer case has about 200ml or less in it thats why its howling. Thanks for the feedback guys
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