Hey fellow X-Type enthusiasts!

I know many threads have been started and debated on the "transfer case" and whether it is a lifetime fill or needs to be changed out at some point. I think we all know it can be the achilles heel of this model car (mine is a 2002 X-Type American model 3.0L AWD) and if the transfer case fails your looking at a ton of money to replace it in most cases. Most fail because of stress and the fact most people do not change the gear oil and it thins out or evaporates from heat over time. So that leads one to question - "what is a lifetime fill suppose to mean then?"

Well, in my opinion it means "rubbish!" Lifetime fill and seal as compared to what? Does that mean 100k miles, 200k miles, 10 years, 20 years??? Take my car for example...it is 14 years old but only has 17k on it so what does that mean? Am I suppose to assume my gear oil is still doing what it is suppose to do and has not broken down over 14 years? Well... I wasn't willing to take that chance being that I paid a few bucks more then normal for my little beauty! LOL

So, I started asking questions, reading threads and watching YouTube videos and found out everything I needed to know. Before I go on I must thank the great THERMO for all his advice and knowledge behind the scenes for helping guide me in the right direction. That dude is just plain *** cool!!!!

Ok, lets start with some history on the transfer case. When Jaguar built this automobile (2002 X-Type 3.0L AWD), the transfer cases were pre-filled before the transfer case was mated to the engine. So basically the transfer case does have a fill plug but is only accessible when things are apart (ie...engine, transfer case, tranny..etc.) - However once everything is together the only feasible and cost effective way to drain and fill the transfer case is through the drain plug.

Now let's start with the DIY way. You can watch this YouTube video which pretty much explains it perfectly:


For those with the time, tools, jacks and jack stands the DIY method will only cost you about 40 minutes of time and about $20.00 for your quart of 75w 140 oil. (BTW...after much reading I have determined that Red Line 75w 140 High performance Gear Oil is the way to go!)

Now...for those that would like a shop to do this OR the dealer...beware! It is going to be a tedious task to find a place that will do this OR they are going to try and charge you an arm and a leg. I contacted many shops that did not even have any idea how to do this job nor had they even heard of it before...and we are talking foreign car shops here! I was amazed at the lack of knowledge out there on this procedure. Now I can neither confirm or deny this...but I heard that Jaguar dealers will not even perform this because of the fact it is suppose to be a lifetime fill and seal so therefore there is no procedure outlined in any manuals to do this job and they are not authorized to do this? I do not know if this is true or not...but I have read it in a few places. If someone could confirm that would be great!

So, I live in California and a friend recommended this shop in Fresno, Ca. that he has work on his Mini Cooper. So I called them and told them what I wanted....and like every other shop they had no idea how to do this. They had never done one. They specialized in BMW. They even researched manuals and such and could not find any instructions with a factory/dealer procedure. BUT, they were willing to work with me. I told them about the DIY method and the information that THERMO had given me. They told me they had superior mechanics and that if I brought my car in they would do exactly what I told them to do!!!!! This was a first...a shop asking ME what to do. So, I took my car in there today and the owner told his main mechanic to do exactly everything I tell him to do. I had even printed out a guideline to hand them before I got there. I also had them change my engine oil at the same time...why not? Always a good move to do that.

Anyhow, between my outlines that I have learned here and other places and the mechanics knowledge of procedure they successfully did the transfer case oil change to perfection!!! Here is the best part...the cost was only $105.00 including the oil!!!!! You have to LOVE that!!! AND to boot this was the coolest shop ever...they invited me to be part of everything. Instead of most shops that make you stand behind a yellow line and watch from a distance, they told me to get right up in there with them so I could see everything and they allowed me to take pictures and actually watch them do the job. I loved it and took advantage of that opportunity.

Now the next question one may ask is did I see a difference between the old oil that came out and the new oil that went in? The answer is YES! Even though my car has only 17k miles on her she is 14 years old after all. The oil that came out was dark in color and very, very thin. The oil that went in was very golden and very thick...so thick it was hard to pump in...which I will get to. So yes....time does take it's toll on everything...even transfer case oil. Lifetime fill my ***.

So, as I said I took photos so I will post those with descriptions of what was being done.

Pic #01 - You can see the bottom of my transfer case and the drain plug. As you see it has a square insert which a 3/8 socket drive will fit into. You can also see the thread seal (the reddish brown stuff on the threads) on the plug. The mechanic had to find a very small socket drive to fit in the space down there. The left side of the picture is the front of the car from the drivers side (American Car) and the right side of the picture is towards the boot. It is also my understanding that the manual cars have more room down there vs. the automatics?





Pic #02 - So first thing was to get the car in the air and drain the engine oil and start draining the Transfer case Oil. I know...she is beautiful isn't she!?!? heehee





Pic #03 - So after letting the Transfer case drain out level, we then raised the car on the passenger side to 24" from the sill to the ground to let gravity get out more. After this the car was then raised again back to level and they attached a vacuum system and inserted the hose into the Transfer case to get out the last of the old oil. It took a bit to maneuver the hose around inside it and they got as much old oil out as they could. Might not be 100% of it, but close to it.





Pic #04 - It's fill time with Red Line 75w 140 High Performance Gear Oil! (You can see it sitting on the engine bay!). So, we then lifted the car up to 24" high from the sill for the fill. To fill this the mechanic used a hand pump. He first cleaned the pump out of any old residue. He then pumped in the oil until it started to run out of the drain plug hole. After checking the bottle afterwards and accounting for what was left in the hose, he pumped in about 550 ml - 600 ml of oil...give or take. Basically a few over half the quart. As soon as it started running back out the drain hole he screwed the plug back in as quick as he could and tightened it.





Pic #05 - Just a side pic of the fill angle at 24" high. Just because she is beautiful to me...love that metallic quartz paint!





Pic #06 - As per a suggestion from "yardbird" while your car is in the air you might as well have them squirt some grease into the driveshaft carrier bearing! It should be lubed with "termalene grease" because it holds up great against water. It can be shot in with a grease gun and a 18 gauge grease needle. The bearing is located in line with the B-pillar on the under side of the car. You will see where one side will be pretty much metal the whole way and the other side will have a gap that is filled by a rubber gasket. This gasket is fairly thin and you can slide the grease gun needle under that gasket and then squeeze in some grease. It is best if you can squeeze in the grease in at least 3 spots equally spaced around the bearing. It doesn't take much at any one spot. Once the bearing is filled, you will know as you will put a little in and all that you added will squirt out somewhere.





Pic #07 - And one last pic of where the engine oil drain plug is. Don't be jealous of how clean my under carriage is!!!! ;-) heehee





In any case I hope this thread helps anyone who wants to do this or needs to have a mechanic do it and can help provide instruction. I feel a TON better knowing I have it done and will not have to worry about it for another 50k + miles or so. If anyone lives close to Fresno, California and wants to get this done for the same price I did...then contact the following shop: Bailey European - 32 W. Spruce Ave., Fresno, Ca. 93650 - 559-492-2271 (Julian - Mechanic - Owner)

BTW...this thread was budweiser fueled!!!!!

peace out,
daddylogan

 

Nice write up and pics! I did my 07 X type this way as soon as I bought it and also changed the diff and autobox oil and brake fluid while I was under the car. Its just a nice feeling to know all of the various oils are new when you are cruising in your pride and joy. And top marks for the cleanest 14yr old underside, as a former car mechanic and current marine mechanic I can confirm a car like yours is a mechanics dream to work on. Its hard to get motivated about working on a car (or boat) that has been neglected and looks like crap under the hood.

 

I have a question. I've actually got a local shop in the village here, willing to work with me on some of the "jag oddities"... like tipping the car over to fill the transfer case.

Regarding the lifting portion itself. The lift pad placement.
Lift pads are generally square or rectangular pads.
At the front lift point ...if we tip it, the pad is making very small contact. Any noted concern there?
At the rear lift point, did they use a slotted pad of any type? Or just lift with a flat pad at the lift point?

I'm about to have the dealer change my rear transfer case seal. They'll put gear oil into the transfer case but last time I asked them to check the level (because it had been dripping slowly for who knows how long) they basically sent me home with about HALF the gear oil it was supposed to have. So I'm going to have to at least check it when they're done.

and..... mine isn't as clean as yours... heheh

 

Yardbird...they used just the flat round pad. However, if you look at my picture #05 you will see that even after they had the car tilted they still place a jack stand underneath for extra support. Also if you look in picture #06 and look off to the right, you will see the yellow lift and round pad. Everything went smooth and perfect.

peace out,
daddylogan

 

Great write up. I'm emailing this to my mechanic as we speak. I've drained the TC by tipping it as you did but not sucked out the rest. But now, with this thread in hand, it's time to do it right. Thanks again!

 

Great write up. I also added an end like this in mine to make it easier to refill each time.

 

Hello,

Where did you find this part? I think its the best idea to fill the transfer box.

 

I got all the parts from home Depot plumbing department. You still have to pull the plug to drain it, but it makes refilling much easier.

It's been a couple years so I don't remember the thread size, but I found the idea on the forum somewhere. It's tight so you have to bend the wings just a bit, but it works.