I'm interested in trying to change my transfer case fluid. I've read the write up on the old drain and fill , but i'm wondering why is it no one has tried or sugested vacuming out the fluid. I was in an auto parts store and say a fluid extractor system, and was wondering if this could work.

 

Dragonsse, that is a good idea except for 1 small problem (hence why everyone has an issue). The fill plug is located nice and high on the transfer case and also pressed up tight against the block of the engine. So, there is no way to remove the fill plug without dropping the transfer case. At that point, might as well pull the drain plug.

Unless you have something else in mind. All the extraction systems I have seen are nothing more than a suction pump and a long tube. Ultimately, you need to get some sort of valve in the drain plug hole to make this work.

 

Not sure if you are talking about using a vaccum extraction through the plug on the side. If so I tried this but found there were gears inside the case that kept me from getting the tube to the bottom. I just jacked the passenger side of the car up to get as much of the old oil out as I could and just had to settle for not being able to get it all out. Although as has been said getting the oil back in is the real problem.

 

i see many post's saying how hard it is to get the new oil back in, but no post's on how it is actually done....what is the preferred method for getting the new oil in?

 

Check for it in another thread. As I remember the easy way is to, with the car level, remove the drain plug and let as much fluid drain out as possible. Then jack up the driver's side, and with the plug still out, fill the case until it starts coming out the hole. Someone said that that will place 600ml of new lubricant in the case.

The hard way, discussed in the same thread, involved making a valve-type replacement cap for the drain plug and connecting a tube to it and then placing a specific amount of lubricant in the case (600ml?). Then tighten the valve on the newly made replacement for the drain plug and remove the tube.


Seemed like the easier way, was, well, easier... ;-)
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Jaguar - it's not an automobile, it's a Motorcar

 

i dont know where the drain is, but couldnt you just use a gear oil pump and fill it back up through the bottom?(if thats where the drain is)

on a outboard motor you drain the lower unit oil from the lower drain plug, then screw in the fill pump hose and start pumping the fluid from the bottom up. you only use the upper plug to check the level.

 

Ok, but how do you remove the pump from the bottom and seal the case without all the new lubricant leaking out?

That's the problem with these cases, the top plug is squeezed against the engine and is not accessible. The bottom plug, is, well, on the bottom...
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Jaguar - it's not an automobile, it's a Motorcar

 

same way you do it on the outboard motor...quickly.
you will loose a little but nothing crazy.
just find out what the factory spec is for the amount of fluid the tc takes, pre measure it so you know how much you have in there.

 

THere are 3 different methods for getting the lube back into the transfer case. The cheapest is simply leaning the car at a decent angle (driver's side needs to be raised so the bottom edge of the body is about 24" off of the ground). Then that places the transfer case at enough of an angle that the room inside the transfer case can hold the whole 600ml. Then you can install the plug without loosing any fluid.

OPtion #2 is getting a kit from a fellow member here (cost is like $100 as I recall, but talk to him for the exact cost). His kit is essentially a check valve that you can install an end on to the valve and it overrides the check valve feature to allow the fluid to drain out.

OPtion #3 is something I came up with which is using a radiator drain valve with an adapter. This allows you to run some tygon through the engine bay and on to the end of the valve and dump in the fluid that way. THen you can shut the valve before removing the tube and get all the fluid in. If you want more info on this, let me know. The radiator drain valve does need to be a fairly specific one. But the adapter can be picked up at any local hardware store.

 

thanks guys,
I would like more info on the radiator fitting thermo :+)

Lets say i go with the car jacking method....if the plug is on the bottom, is the only way of getting that 600ml into the TC by means of a pump?.

 

iownme, what I did is went down to the hardware store and bought myself a 1/2" npt plastic fitting with a connector for 1/4" tubing on it. Then I routed the tubing up and through the engine bay so I could fill it using the tip of the royal purple oil I had bought. The one thing is that you might have to sand down the sides of the plastic a little to get it to fit, but it was easy to fill after that. If you want to flush though, I would go a different route of placing a valve near the tc so that you don't have to remove your connector between fluid changes.

 

iownme, first off, you will need to run to the auto parts store and find a brass radiator drain valve (with 1/4" NPT male threads) that has what appears to be a spent 38 cal shell sitting on the T-handle of the valve (none of the other ones have something like this, so, when you see it, you will know what I am talking about). Then you will need to run to the hardware store and pick up an adapter that has 1/2" npt male threads and 1/4" NPT female threads. You will then install the radiator drain valve into the adapter and tighten it down good (use of a sealing agent is advisable). Now, using a file or a bench grinder, you will need to remove the flats off of the adapter. Just make sure not to damage the threads on the outside of the adapter. This needs to be done due to the limited clearances near the drain hole. Now, thread in the valve/adapter combo into the transfer case and using the hex on the valve, tighten it down into the transfer case. Of note, you may find that having the valve open will make installing a tygon tube into the "shell casing" opening on the handle easier. Then you can route the tube up through the engine bay, pour in your fluid, and then close the valve prior to removing the tubing.

If you need more information, just hollar.

 

nice bit of engineering there thermo, does your hard drive contain a pic of your finished handywork?

 

iownme, I am assuming you are wanting something like this:



This is what I installed into my car. As you can see, the top has what appears to be a shell casing attached. That fits 3/8" tygon tubing as I recall. But, once you get the valve, you can match up tygon at the local auto parts store or at the hard ware store.

 

perfect!....a picture says a thousand words...lol.

looking forward to getting home so i can start getting to work on the X

the transfer case oil will be one of the first tasks.

Is the drain plug on the bottom/bottom or the bottom/side?.

Do you leave this in the case all the time or just when it's time to refill the oil?.

I'll pick up those parts on my next lowes trip

 

The drain plug is located on the side of the transfer case, but only about an inch up on the side. Go in from the drivers side and look over at the passenger tire. You will see the plug then. It is tucked up in a little pocket, but it is the one that is pretty much facing straight down at the ground.

As for the valve, I leave it in all the time. I am not worried about the valve getting hit by something as I mentioned before, it is tucked up and out of the way. If something hits this valve, then I have caused other serious damage and this will be the least of my worries.

 

thanks Thermo, you have a nice way of explaining details

 

Also, if I may chime in really quick, it is a very good idea to go for the best gear oil out there (preferably fully synthetic) because generally if these cases have been run with little to no oil in them, they have become slightly damaged. Some of the upper class oils have additives in them to help reduce this wear which will be very important. Not to mention fully synthetics won't have to be changed as much making it so that you don't have to change your oil as much.

Speaking of the oil, I don't know if it has been mentioned or not, but I went with a 75w/140 royal purple gear oil which ran me around $20.

 

disguay, Jaguar mandates the use of a full synthetic 75W-140 in the transfer cases and the rear differential. Yes, you can use a non-synthetic, but as you mention, the amount of wear will be more.

 

thermo, do you have any brand preference on what kind of gear oil to use? I am thinking of flushing the rear diff here soon and just wondering what you prefer.