Here's a 17mm version in case you want to same some time making something

 

I do like making "special " tools. I'll wait to see whether I have to make 13mm or another size. My previous tool where cut ring spanners to replace the orifice tube for the aircon...I would explain my aircon issues and what it took to remedy after having a really bad job done by an aircon " expert"!
Re the TC, I have made this little device...3/8 drive to 15mm bolt head...makes removing and replacing the filler plug on the TC easy..Works a treat...works with 15 mm ring spanner.

 

@ Adrian: Ok, that's an idea, too, for handy little tool.

@ 95naSTA: When you posted that this special tool is available in various sizes, it began ticking in my brain, and the result of a day of ticking is - unexpected:
I would have thought that the new found keyword "offset wrench" leads me to a cheap set of those on Temu (The price on your link to that special tool on Amazon is too expensive for my taste). But no, it did not, but it lead me to this tool, which I did not know yet:

While I do not think that it helps with the upper left bolt on the cat-bracket (I will weld that tool myself), I reckon that that tool will come in handy at other occasions and I am going to order that.

PS: And looking thru what I can order cheaply, I just had a great idea:
I will order a mini ratchet spanner (13mm - I will swap my bolt for one with a 13mm-hex-head the next time I am in that spot) for AUD$5.20 and I will order a 3/8 to 1/4 adapter (AUD$2.69), cut off the 1/4-"nose" and weld the adapter onto the mini-ratchet-spanner, which is very little work and it gives me a way better special tool that the original was. I will actually have to cut off a bit more that the nose, to get a "3/8 tube", which is open on both sides, so that I can open AND fasten that bolt (ratchet!-spanner!)...

 

I looked at those also on Temu, and I was also thinking along the lines of your rachet idea. Thanks again.

 

@Peter_from_Australia , @95naSTA
Hi again.
I did a return trip to Adelaide yesterday to pick up my TC replacement....1500 k's.
However I now have comments/questions.
The TC was supplied, minus the link shaft. I querried this and was told this was normal and that it was removed properly and the TC was bench tested and serviceable.
So today, i spend some time checking the inner seals, and they appear to be OK..So I'm assuming that I use my exising shaft, and remove the circlip before inserting...would that be correct?
Also one of you posted pics for me of the left end of the TC showing the O ring, which I also noticed there was a red coloured insert...is this another seal or is it a guide for the link shaft? My new TC has neither.
I can feel my stress levels rising!!
Thanks again.
PS: I'm struggling with my posting on the forum today for some reason...whis is my fourth time ...keep losing my text when i attach a photo so I'll attach a photo next.

 

This is it.

 

For the link shaft, I put it in after the TC is fully installed. The area with the c-clip and the c-clip it's self is thankfully a bit smaller than the inner seals. What I've done twice so far with success is clock the c-clip so that the open part of the C faces up as I put the shaft in as square and gentle as possible. This way the only part of the c-clip that's sharp is hidden in the groove via gravity while the smooth part of the c-clip is dangling outside of it. A dab of assembly lube to keep the c-clip from spinning doesn't hurt. I was never actually able to separate the link shaft from the rest of the axle so I removed it and installed it all as one assembly. Not ideal if you're removing and re-installing the same TC but a non-issue in this situation.

For the pic illustrating the o-ring, the red thing is just a generic plug to keep fluid from leaking out. Nothing that gets installed on the car.

Edit - Clean looking unit there.

 

@95naSTA Thanks for your rapid reply....not sure where you're located on the planet!
You've decreased my stress levels a little.

 

Hi Adrian,
I have here 3 pictures from my "collection", which I have not yet published before, which you may find of interest:


This is the special-tool-bracket, which I made myself - quick and easy. I used a bit of left-over 1.5mm purlin and cut and bend it to get it.


And this is how it fixates the shaft: On one end I use one of the original bolts to secure it, on the other end a hose-clamp. Now the shaft is safely fixated.


And this is a picture of the circlip - that tiny golden thing - if that slides thru the inner seal, it will damage the inner seal.

That bracket is not only required when you remove the TC, but also when you install the TC, because the shaft slides around easily, and even if you think you can control it without bracket during installation, you might be unlucky - the shaft slides out and damages the internal seal.

Btw.: I modified an hydraulic jack: I added a platform onto it: This is my TC lifter (and even tranny lifter). The TC has got quite some weight, and you have to juggle it about from under the car - you need a lifter.

While I don't say that it is impossible to install the TC first, and only then insert the shaft and then install the circlip... - I personally cannot see any way to do that.
First the shaft gets inserted into the TC (w/o circlip, obviously), then the circlip gets fitted, then the shaft gets secured (with that bracket), and then it gets fitted to the car....

I think it is strange that they did not provide you with that shaft...

 

@ Adrian: I forgot to answer your other question about the outer O-ring on the left side - this should be: C2S5132

It goes into the outer groove, visible on your TC picture, which currently has that O-ring missing.

It's part number 8:
https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic...5132-seal.html

 

Hi Peter.
Thanks for the info.
I will also make a cradle for my small floor jack to hold when removing and installing the TC....the last one I made was to hold the transaxle of a Porsche 914 that I did a lot of work on for a relation of mine.
And yes, I am still stressed that the link shaft was removed and not even supplied with my "new" TC....I am going to call them tomorrow and request that they supply me with it.
Just a quick question. One day in the future I am going to dismantle my current TC...just curious as to the workings. Apart from the unavailable seals, do you know it the bearings are available as if that is the only problem I might have a crack at rebuilding it?
I appreciate your interest and feedback.
I will say that I am pretty angry with myself for not reading up more on the transfer case and not addressing the oil issue. I could have saved myself anguish and money.
Cheers

 

That TC design is actually a pretty bad one by Jaguar: The oil level - and changing the oil in there - are both paramount!
BUT: There is no easy way to check that oil level, and even less of a way to change it (very complicated).

> Apart from the unavailable seals, do you know it the bearings are available as if that is the only problem I might have a crack at rebuilding it?
I never wrote that any of the seals are unavailable...
I bought the C2S5132 recently. I also bought the outer seal towards the axle-half-shaft.
And I have high hopes that I would be able to buy the internal seal locally in our bearing and seal shop, if only I could open the TC. I tried and I did not manage to "crack it open"...
If I could have opened the TC, I would not only have checked, which internal seal I can buy locally, but I could also look for bearings locally. Figuring out, which OE-part-numbers the bearing have, would probably be quite hard.

I cradle for a "small floor jack" is probably not such a good idea... - here is a picture of my contraption:

I use that for TC and for tranny. As base I used a low lift 2 or 2.5 ton car jack - not because I need the weight capacity, but because I need the "low lift" and because I need the width and therefore stability of the contraption... - and note aside: Because I had to modify one of my 2 big car jacks that way, and because I need 2 big car jacks, I went to Supercheap today and ordered another 3T low lift car jack. They have a special for another 4 days on that Jack.


And here another pic of my TC, where you can see the following:
1.the black seal on the right (C2S5132).
2. How I removed all those bolts in vain - because after all that, I still could not open up the TC (I wanted to replace that internal seal).
3, The top plug removed, there I fill in the new gear oil (75W-...) 80W-140 full synthetic.
4. How shiny my TC looks after I cleaned it off with wire-brushes and then painting it with high temp clear coat spray.

 

Peter_of_ Australia
Thanks again and your photos. I have a similar plan.
Wonder why your casing won't separate?

 

Digging deep into my technical library, I pulled out these two documents that will be useful to those who haven't come across them elsewhere. The powertrain intro is an early Jaguar document from 2001 so doesn't reflect some of the later changes to the transfer box. Pages 63 to 71. A good cross-sectional drawing of the box internals and a good description of how the transfer box actually works. Less people understand that than think they do

 

@astromorg Thank you for posting those! It sounds like you've rebuilt the TC. What did you torque the pinion nut and the large nut on the side of the case to?

 

@astromorg Wow. What great info. Thanks for posting.Makes things a lot clearer

 

I have never needed to strip a transfer box, but I do know the output flange nut torque should be 160 Nm/118 lbf.ft. That info is in this useful Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) http://www.jagrepair.com/images/TSB/...%20Leakage.pdf

Much other useful info here, compiled by Forum member Gus Glikas JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

I'm not aware of any published data showing a torque value for that shaft securing nut. You might try contacting Bristol Transmissions (UK)who refurbish TBs for JLR . Contact details on their website. https://www.bristoltransmissions.co.uk/

This link shows a modification I added to my TB https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...t=transfer+box

Since I first did this mod 12 years ago, I've given up on the non-return valve and just refill through a simple screw-in fitting in the new drain point, then unscrew the fitting and quickly pull it away, covering the drain hole with a finger until the drain plug is ready, when I remove my finger and quickly fit the plug.

 

@Peter_of_Australia @95naSTA @astromorg
Just thought I'd give you an update. As said previously, my TC came without the link shaft, however after a conversation with the suppliers, they sent me the link shaft.
To check the condition of the onternal seals, and after having a good look with my endoscope, I carefully inserted the link shaft...minus the circlip, supported the TC transmission end up and put some transmission fluid in up to a level I could see clearly. I left it for 3 days and the transmission fluid level stayed the same. I then put the TC level on the bench and removed the shaft....it was dry from the seal down. I am now fairly happy that the seals ore OK.

 

Good to hear. I am just worried that you write that you put transmission fluid into the TC!?!
The TC wants 75W-140 or 80W-140 gear oil full synthetic...

 

@Peter_of_Australia My understanding was that the double seals kept the transmission fluid on one side and gear oil on the other. Therefore I assumed that that transmission fluid would be in the "left" side of the transfer case. Anyway it was a leak test...the TC is now empty and awaiting fitting, ...which will happen when my partner's hothouse frame is finished. Going to be hot today...will have to see how much welding I get done.