Hi all. I have to swap out my transfer case...going to give it a go myself due to some great posts on this site. My questions are...
1* Do I drain some fluid from the auto before removing the TC?
2* Is it possible to check whether the inner double seal is intact and OK as I've sourced another box from a British car wreckers and just want to be sure it's been removed properly and the link shaft hasn't been moved out too far?
Cheers from Australia.

 

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ere-how-12996/

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...e-93353/page2/

http://www.justanswer.com/uploads/cr...se_removal.pdf

 

@ Adrian:
> 1* Do I drain some fluid from the auto before removing the TC?
What is "the auto"? I will simply assume that you mean "Das Auto", i.e. "the car":
Even though I just removed TC and tranny several times on mine, I just cannot remember, if I drained the ATF before or after removing the TC. But I would assume I removed the ATF before.
The shaft from the tranny that pokes into the TC has the potential to leak ATF after you remove the TC - I just do not know, if the ATF reaches the level of the shaft when being built in in the car. I noticed that when ATF was flowing out of it when I rolled the removed tranny over. And this is not due to a damaged seal, but it is design-intend that ATF flows there from the tranny into the TC, as - strange as it is - sections of the TC are lubricated with ATF, and the other sections are lubricated with synth. gear oil 80W-140 (or 75W-140) (Penrite). Thus: You got 2 options: Remove the TC and check, if the ATF flows out of the tranny and then quickly drain the ATF into a CLEAN TUB (so you can refill the ATF later on - make sure that no dirt enters the ATF meanwhile), or you drain the ATF before you remove the TC.

That seal you are asking about in your second question is exactly the seal, which separates the ATF from the gear oil. I am not aware of a reliable way to determine the condition of that seal. I made sure that I am not damaging my own seal, when I removed my TC (by making my own DIY bracket, that ensures that the internal shaft of the TC will not rip the seal apart.) Plus I have a spare tranny with TC attached in my shed from New Model Wreckers in SYD - that TC has never been off the tranny. I actually wanted to swap that seal on my TC. While I could not find a part-number for it, I do believe that is is a common seal, which I could buy at the local bearing shop. Thus, I attempted to open the TC. I removed all the bolts, and then the lid of the TC should have come off, but I was unable to pry the lid off, regardless of how hard I tried! Let me know, if you find a way...
Back to your No. 2 question: Once the TC is off, you can do a visual inspection of that seal and even touch that seal. If it is really seriously damaged, you will notice, but it may also look fine and have a small leakage. And if that is the case gear oil and ATF would probably mix to a degree and you might see the results of that - probably in a painful way.

Before you re-install the new or old TC, make sure you are swapping the gear oil. The old oil will be the most dirty oil you have ever seen anywhere. I recommend 2 swaps in a row. Do some shack, rattle and roll with the TC before the second change and turn the shafts a bit. If you figure out a way to turn the shaft with a drill, do that.

There is a drain plug underneath. No need to drain before you remove the TC. Do it after you remove the TC. And I used the fill plug at the top to refill the new gear oil. Sadly that fill plug is neither accessible nor visible when the TC is build-in.

And you will be using all the swear words you know when attempting to remove those two brackets: The cat-bracket and the bracket over the TC. Some of the bolts are in the category "near impossible to remove"...

I am planning to write DIY guide about digging your way thru to the tranny, but I cannot find the time. Ask, if you have specific questions.

Note: With the TC off, you have the unique chance to replace the sump-gasket without major pain. However, I can't guarantee that putting a new sump gasket in will not create new engine oil-leak issues. Somehow, something there is just not designed right and I have major issues with an unfixable oil-leak myself.

 

Thanks for the info Peter. I hope I'm replying in the correct spot....still haven't worked out how to drive this forum properly. I see you're in Oz also. I'm in Victoria and can source a replacement TC from Adelaide. Thanks again.

 

Yes, you replied in the "correct spot". I am in Taree, NSW.
Are there no wreckers in VIC or what kind of source for the TC do you have in Adelaide?

 

Hi again. I was recommended Triumph Rover Spares in Adelaide. I go to Adelaide often,((old home town) . They just seem to do British stuff, and have heaps of Jag stuff. I've visited them before. I figure they know how to remove a TC and not moving the link shaft out too far. In fact I was close to Adelaide when my TC started to get very noisy.. I failed to read enough about it and it had run dry. Trailered my girl home.

 

About that "running the TC dry"...:
After having removed the TC myself and having seen the gunk in there and how much one needs to tilt the TC to remove the old fluid from the only accessible plug, I do not believe that the "tilt" the X400 method makes any sense: You will not be able to remove sufficient old gunk.
But I do believe that if you tilt the X400 to the other side, you could at least get an idea how empty it is and refill a bit of gear oil. This certainly does not replace a gear oil change, but is better then running dry...

So I take it you have not yet removed your TC?

Have a look at the second link, which Dell gave you above. I'd like to think, that before I find the time to do a write-up, this is the best document at hand to guide you.
No.27 in that guide is the most hard-core bolt to remove. I think I first spend a few days to create a special too to get to that bolt at least in some awkward way, while I actually cannot imagine that the special tool they recommend there will have any chance of doing the trick: Yes, which that tool you may be able to access that bold, but then you cannot torn it...
But at least, after you manage to do the miracle to loosen that nut, there is no need to torture yourself to remove the bolt completely, as the bolt there does not go thru a hole in that bracket, but thru a slot, i.e. once that bolt is loose (and the other bolts) you can just slide the bracket out of there...

Note that I think that that link there is not showing the complete version of that document. There is somewhere a complete version on the net, though...

 

I used a borescope to verify the two inner seals weren't nicked or torn when installing a used TC. Don't forget to replace the o-ring that seals the TC from the trans and the passenger axle seal.

100% recommend getting the box end torque adapter extensions the FSM recommends for the bolt(s) between the cat and the block. I spent hours messing around with a stubby gear wrench and a pry bar because I didn't have the right tool.

 

Thanks for your replies.
Yes Peter. I haven't removed the TC or even started but read and re read all the posts, etc., and have decided I will give it a shot. As for the fluid level, when I got the car home, I raised the left side by the 2 feet suggested and removed the filler plug. No fluid came out so I proceeded to lower the car to see when fluid appeared....back to level and no fluid...raised the car again and it took 550mls, so it was dry. Almost no metal on the magnetic plug so I might pull it apart some time in the future.
For the second post, I have a boroscope...haven't used it in a long time...just have to find it.
I've always done my own maintenance so not new to using a spanner. Also have owned a few British cars in my time...Mini Cooper, then Morris 1100S, Club man GT, MGB, MGBGT, Series 1 XJ6...we used to joke that the Brits had the designers in one room and engineers in another, so what was produced was always difficult to work on....now we have Ford involved as well....What could possibly go wrong..Ha Ha.
Thanks again guys...I'll try and keep you posted. Won't be starting for a while...other projects await....like rebuilding my partner's hot house that got destroyed by strong wind, actually while I was in Adeliade with my broken car...she loved it.

 

For people, who wonder, what a borescope is: It is an endoscope.
And for those, who do not have one: Get one (it is about AUD$5 on aliexpress or Temu, and it is just a flexible long stick with a tiny camera at one end and a micro-USB on the other end, which plugs into your mobile phone. But if you invest ore, you might get a better resolution.

@ 95naSTA:
> Don't forget to replace the o-ring that seals the TC from the trans and the passenger axle seal.
That first O-Ring is that O-ring we are talking about and wondering, if it is damaged. I would have loved to replace mine. To do so, I would have needed to pull the TC apart: I removed all the bolts to do so, but still: There was no way to get it apart...
And yes: Also swap the seal that goes to the axle on the right hand side of the car - which is here in Australia the driver's side...

 

Thanks again Peter...no doubt I will return with questions when I proceed with the job.
Cheers

 

Good catch on the axle seal. I was thinking RHD vs LHD while typing the response but the rubber didn't meet the road on that one.

I am indeed talking about an actual o-ring. Here it is.


For what gets sealed internally, there are 2 actual seals (maybe others refer to them as o-rings but they are a traditional lipped seal) that ride a machined surface on the axle.
There is more detail with video but the inner most black ring in both of these pictures are the lip part of each seal.

 

Thanks 95.. It's difficult to fully understand fully but it should make sense with the TC off. The pictures are great and make it clear and I will be referring to them when I'm underway. Also guaranteed I'll be back with questions.
One thing I'm not fully clear on is when removing the right driveshaft from the TC what stops it dragging the link shaft with it? How do you separate them and stop the link shaft moving further out the the 200mm?
See, I lie awake at night thinking this stuff through.?.my 75yo brain.

 

Lots of stuff to reply to & a few new thoughts of mine:

I just found that:
https://www.jaguarforum.com/threads/...acement.82364/
I just had a brief look, but in the middle of all those pictures he shows, how to take the TC apart: First removing the rear section, AND THEN that part, which I did not manage to do:
He also took the remaining part apart...

@ 95naSTA:
YES, of course: THAT outer O-Ring. Yes, I did put a new one on there. It was not a "replace" as the PO simply used liquid gasket-maker.
Yes, the inner ones are seals, or lipped seals.
Do you have a picture of the special tool, you mentioned above, is worth buying - the one for the upper left bolt of the cat-bracket?

@ Adrian:
The TB, to which I already referred above, is called: XT307-S941. Here it is:
http://jagrepair.com/images/TSB/TSB2...eplacement.pdf
This TB is about the "lost reverse gear issue", but on the way thru to the tranny, you'll hit the TC, hence it is explained there as well.
Look at point 29. It shows the bracket you need to remove the TC w/o damaging the lipped seal. I made that bracket myself - easily done.

Also: You mentioned somewhere above that you put 5.5L into the TC, which was not completely empty...
First up: Driving the TC that empty would most likely have damaged it.
I had found several kinds of info, of how much gear oil to put in there: I found figures from 500-600ml. Dell had send me some official info, where it says 500ml. Hence, if you have filled 550ml into a TC, whcih was not empty, you would have overfilled it.

 

The OEM p/n is 303-1069.It's a 13mm 3/8 drive torque adapter.Below is where it's called out in the FSM and a picture of a generic 13mm 3/8 drive torque adapter.

 

Thanks again...hope I can find this info again when I need it...for some reason, I find it harder to drive the forum than work on the "X". And a typo...I meant 500mils for the refill....in fact it was 500 on the dot when it started overflowing.

 

Peter...The link to the post on removing the TC..I had already found it and have been through it multiple times. It's the thing that convinced me to give it a shot....once I found you didn't have to remove sub frame, steering rack, etc as per the Haynes manual.

 

@ Adrian: No need to remove the subframe for the TC - but for the tranny, which is why I already had that pleasure several times.

@ 95naSTA: Thank for the picture. I still need more info to be able to imagine that part: Is that a solid part (if so, I cannot imagine how to turn it with all those other bits and pieces in the way) or is that indeed a highly sophisticated tool with an internal mechanism, where the hex-end rotates when you rotate the 3/8-ratchet input, without the actual tool moving externally (just internally)? - scrap my question - I found the answer: It is solid - see:
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/post451294.html
Which means, I still cannot image, how this tool is supposed to work, given that there is no space to move it...

PS: I actually think that this tool would not help me, as I think to remember that the bolt on my X-Type is bigger than 13mm, which means, a PO (previous owner) put another bolt in. But once I understand what the logic of that tool is (how to possibly turn it even though there is no space to turn it), I could easily weld something like that myself...

 

@Peter_from_Australia It's essentially an extended crows foot if you've ever used on of those. If you put a box or open ended wrench back there, there's no leverage or space to turn it. A socket won't fit. This tool allows you to effectively put a 3/8" extension on the end of a box wrench and turn it a few degrees at a time. The offset of it won't allow you to turn it much, but it's enough to get it bit by bit. It's off center, awkward and still a bit cumbersome but would be much better than what I did. I put a stubby wrench back there and used a pry bar to crack it loose and turn a degree or two at a time.

 

Ok thanks.
As I mentioned, the PO of my X400 has put a bolt with bigger hex-head there (17mm).
But now that I understand the principle, I can make a tool like that. I have used a ratchet-spanner extended it by welding some other bar onto it and got to the bolt coming from underneath (I think).