Okay, I read the great write-up found here...https://www.jaguarforums.com/m_5219/tm.htm, but I have some questions.

1) Is Merkron V really okay? I read another post where someone said to stay away from Synthetic and Merkron V shows as FULL SYNTHETIC on the bottle. That is my first worry.

2) I can't find the level check hole. I did find a bolt that seems to be in the right place, but it is not an allen wrench...just a normal bolt head. Does anyone know if the 2005 model came with something different?

3) If I want to do the 2nd option and drain all of the fluid where can I find this hose that needs to be disconnected and placed in a bucket? This might be necessary if the answer to #1 question is "no." Since I already drained and filled 3.5Q of ATF.

 

Don't know if this helps skyjump?

Jim
This was performed on a 2003 X-type 3.0 Auto
First of all, get your fluid right. If you use even slightly wrong fluid then the tranny will have a short life onwards. Fluid is hard to find, but I discovered Valvoline's Mercon V ATF is a substitute for BMW/ESSO LT71141, which is a fluid that Jag names in its specs as useable in the Jag auto tranny. This valvoline fluid is available at checkers and maybe even walmart, around 3.50 a quart. Autozone and pepboys does not yet carry it.

Anyways,

YOU WANT TO CHANGE YOUR TRANSMISSION FLUID!!! I have 38K miles, and the liquid was dark dark brown, in fact, it was solid brown. Usually if you watch it drain with a light behind it you can see the light as it lightens the liquid... Not this liquid, it was dark brown and there was no hope for it. It was sort of 'coarse' to feel too, not smooth and thin like new fluid.

"SEALED FOR LIFE" my left foot! No wonder so many x-types have transmission failures.

Anyways, you have two options to take: One is safe, costly, and time consuming. The other is somewhat dangerous, cheap, and fast. You pick.

First method is drain, fill, drain fill etc etc. If you do it this way then expect to use 24 quarts during the process, when the tranny only holds between 9 and 10. This method can be great for 'touching up' the fluid every 3,000 miles if you want.

Start by locating the drain under the car. Drain it. You'll only get 3 to 3.5 quarts out this way. The colder the engine the better since more fluid will have seeped back down to the bottom of the tranny.

When its done close the plug, and pour in fluid from above. The plug should be between the battery and the throttle body/airbox area, down in there. I was able to weasle my hand down between the battery, airbox, and front of the car and pop the plastic plug off. People with big hands will need to move the battery.

I can't guarantee you have a nice plastic plug that pops right off... I read about a guy who had a 2002 and had a metal screw that had lock-tite on it.

Find a small tipped funnel and pour in what you took out, around 3-4 quarts. Check fluid level (procedure below). Run the car for a day and do it again. And again. And again.

The liquid WILL clear up, but.... You're going through quite a lot of tranny fluid. THis method is safe though, so don't be too swayed from it.

The other method is dangerous...

In this method you will first drain the 3-4 quarts the regular way, and fill it up the same way. Then you'll disconnect the lower cooling hose at the area it returns to the tranny. Put that end into a bucket. Be prepared for frustration because there is not much room around it when you first unscrew it... Have a ratchet, pliers, wrench etc available, you may need them all as you run out of space.

Run the car. Have it drain into a marked container where you can see how much is flowing out. IT DRAINS FAST. Once 3 quarts flows out then shut the car off. Pour in 3 quarts. Turn on car and 3 more quarts will flow out. Car off, pour in 3 more quarts.

Heres the catch... POURING IN THE REPLACEMENT FLUID DOES NOT AFFECT THE OVERALL LEVEL!!! I have no clue why, but even though I matched the fluids in amount it STILL RAN DRY ONCE I PUMPED 8 QUARTS OUT.

In other words... It pumped out 8 quarts of old oil, and although I was pouring in new oil during it, the new oil was somewhere else in the tranny, because the tranny ran dry and would not shift. So be quick on the car turnoff once you get it all out.

Either way, at this point you've got enough out. Success. Fill it with whatever you need to to equal what you took out.

Now check and adjust the level. Chances are you're under the right amount. There is a level check plug under the car, but I can't exactly explain where. If you're in front of the car staring at the drain bolt, then its to the right, but its located an inch or so upwards out of view. It uses an allen wrench so that will help you identify it.

Turn on the car with the drain closed and the fluid level plug closed. Get the car up to operating temp and shift the tranny around during it.

Jag specs call for using a computer to monitor temps and to do this fluid level check at a certain temp, like 104 degrees F, but I just ran it to normal operating temp.

When you reach normal temp you'll unscrew the fluid level check plug and take it out. If fluid pours out then your level is over, so let it flow out, when it starts dripping then close it up. Youre set.

If fluid does not flow out, keep filling from above until it does.

This method drains a good 8-9 quarts, in fact.. It may just plain get it all now that I think about it... But, if you want to above and beyond the call of duty, you can do the simple method after the dangerous method to see if you can clean the fluid extra step.

Once you're all done turn the car off and clean up.

 

Thanks Jim. I have read that post and it has a lot of good info. I am referring to the post of Bigdreams' where he says not to use synthetic ATF (and then in the same sentence recommends Mercon V which is full synthetic?.?) Which is it? That post is here...https://www.jaguarforums.com/m_10473/tm.htm

I'd also like some more detailed information on finding the hoses that need to be disconnected if anyone can snap a picture or point me in the right direction.

Thanks in advance!

 

Found this skyjump........bit of a read though, have a look and see if it helps?
Jim
CAUTION: Any work conducted on the transfer case, including fluid change requires advanced mechanical skills and knowledge. NOT FOR THE BEGINNER! In recent months and, coincidentally, because of a number of unit failures, I thought I'd dig into one of the spare transfer cases I have lying around for the AWD X-Type. I had intended to break into it especially because this unit is one of the "Seal for Life" units that has no replaceable parts or procedures. When it goes, Jaguar just charges bunches of money to remove and replace (R/R) it with a new one. This makes it easy for the tech and cheaper for the factory. The winners are: No training needed for the techs below the unit level, no parts distribution below the unit level for the factory... and the loser is: You, the customer having to replace it on your own nickel after warranty. BTW, bring plenty of nickels! First some "theory" about Seal for Life units. This is pretty controversial and I've had heated "discussions" with some in another camp that think Seal for Life units are to be left untouched (until they die) and, of course, those in that camp believe technology has reached a point of no maintenance. On the other hand, I believe Seal for Life units, to the factory, are nothing more than a marketing strategy designed to give customers purchasing brand new cars the sense that the car is practically maintenance free. Those intending to keep their cars running for a long time past warranty (In Jaguar's case 4 years/50,000 miles), or used car buyers learn pretty quickly that the factory defines life as 4 years or 50K miles. As long as you buy new and trade every 4 years or 50K miles, the factory's marketing strategy is working ... but I don't really believe in maintenance free operation, or fairy god mothers for that matter. So, to carry on with my theory, I maintain that one should ignore Seal for Life instructions and regularly maintain these units as was specified by manufacturers in the old days. Specifically addressing the X-Type and the transfer case unit designed in the drivetrain to facilitate the AWD feature, this unit is woefully underdesigned for the job it is given, evidenced by a higher than average number of failures that I've seen recently as the model begins to age. This unit is a major drivetrain component distributing engine torque from the transmission output to the rear and front wheels. It holds ONLY 600ccs of "lifetime" gear oil which is about 1/3 the oil capacity of a typical rear differential and slightly more than 1 pint. One of the primary jobs of an oil bath in a mechanical unit, besides lubrication and cleaning (suspending break-in and wear debris) is to absorb the heat produced by the moving parts. Given the weight of this vehicle and the torque produced by the engine options, 600ccs of fluid is not enough. Additionally, like many other components I've found on the X-Type, the surrounding engine and right catalytic converter produce external heat that bear on the transfer case from the outside. Witness the plastic "air dam" Jaguar engineers tacked on to the oil pan in a last ditch effort to keep this "front differential" cool. I believe too, that because of the much higher torque produced by deisel engines, Jaguar could not offer AWD on these X-Type versions as the present transfer case would utterly fail. The X-Type transfer case actually has four inherent weaknesses: 1. Too little fluid so unable to battle the excessive heat. 2. Bearings, lots of bearings! all suffering from heat exposure. Additionally, there are several tapered roller bearings, all needing to be "loaded" properly for a "normal" life expectancy. 3. Viscous Coupler - these units, when taxed under hard driving conditions and excessive heat, can lose the special viscous fluid through evaporation. Once dry, the AWD is lost. 4. Seals - when seals fail, any of the precious 600ccs of fluid lost quickens other failures. In my (limited) experience so far with the X-Type transfer case, the #1 reason for failure is bearings. Leaky seals are the ONLY field repairable item on this unit. IF YOU SEE EVIDENCE OF A LEAKY TRANSFER CASE SEAL, GET IT FIXED IMMEDIATELY, or you'll soon need a new transfer case. What does the transfer case do and how does it work? Speaking at a basic level, the transfer case in the X-Type is one of three differentials in the drivetrain. A differential is designed to transfer power from one direction to another and change speeds through gearing sometimes. It has an input (Drive side) and an output (Driven side). The first differential is found in the transmission (transaxle). Because the engine layout is transverse, power from it needs to be turned in a usable direction. The crankshaft is the input to the transaxle. Through a gearset, the output is turned 180 degrees to the crankshaft. Next comes the subject differential, the transfer case. Output from the transaxle is the input to the transfer case. Then through a split gearset (more on this later), the transfer case distributes the original engine torque in two directions - to the rear wheels via traditional driveshaft and to the front wheels. The third differential is the final rear wheel drive unit located where everyone remembers it to be since the beginning of automotive time. Fed by the driveshaft and, through a gearset, the third differential turns the output torque to accommodate the rear axles. The X-Type transfer case uses multiple gearsets to supply an uneven torque distribution to the front/rear wheels. The advertised split is 60% torque to the rear wheels, 40% to the front wheels. The actual gearing though is 61/39. It is a nice design as it gives the X the "feeling/handling" of a rear wheel drive car. The uneven torque split is accomplished via a planetary gearset. The transaxle delivers the supplied engine torque directly to an outer gearset which is coupled directly to the rear driveshaft output. That same torque supply is reduced through the planetary gearset to an "inner" output shaft feeding the front drive axles. In between all of it is a "Viscous Coupler" unit. Essentially it is a "constantly slipping" gang of clutch discs designed to manage the obvious difference in torque output to the front/rear wheels. Without the Viscous Coupler, and if the dual geared outputs of the transfer case were live, the rear and front wheels would be turning at different RPMs constantly. How does a Viscous Coupler work? It is a sealed unit consisting a series of alternating "drive" and "driven" plates or discs. Half (drive) are splined to the output from the planetary driven gearset, the other half (driven) are splined to the front axle shafts. These discs are submerged in a special fluid that reacts to heat buildup caused by friction from the alternating discs spinning at diffeent speeds (61/39). Under normal "slip" conditions (all four wheels rolling at the same speed), the disc set is constantly slipping. As the rear wheels begin to speed up considerably faster than the fronts (as in some winter driving conditions), the special "viscous fluid" heats up and thickens considerably and "locks" all the discs, causing more torque distribution to be delivered to the front wheels. Some have commented that in winter conditions, they've noticed the AWD doesn't "kick in" right away, that there is a pause before the front wheels lock up. This is precisely what is happening as the viscous fluid takes a moment to gel. Let's talk about the units on my workbench. I have two spares for my X-Type. One is brand new and is meant to "save me" in the event of a sudden failure. The second unit has just 15K miles on it. It is the subject of this project and will be the unit w

 

You need a scan tool that can bring up the transmission temperature PID in order to check the fluid after it has expanded a specified amount. Use the ESSO fluid if you can help it.

 

or a laser thermometer can get you pretty close.

 

Thanks...but I need to find the right plug first. Any help there? There's nothing with an allen type head on it in the vicinity of the drain plug.

 

Jaguar says that they have formed a partnership with Castrol to allow the Castrol chemists to work with the Jaguar engineers to formulate oils for use in Jaguars. Castrol recommends their Import Multi-Vehicle ATF for use in Jaguar X-Types, and all the specs that Jaguar requires are listed for the Castrol product. It is also quite inexpensive. This is what I am using.

 

JIMC64, in trying to read your massive single paragraph I did find one error before I went cross-eyed. The engine/transmission drives the TC case first and then feeds back to the front axle diff. The diff for the front drive is "split"; the ring gear drives the TC and the TC drives back into the spider case. Visteon had a picture of how this worked but they have since deleted it.

If you look at a TC you see there are two concentric splined shafts. Outer one is power in (drives TC spider gears) and inner one is power to front spider gears (diff). Of course, drive shaft for right front wheel comes through the middle. In normal driving the vicous coupling does not slip (I guess this is a second error in the write-up.) but rotates as a unit with the planetary gear set.

 

hade a question about changing atf fluid/pan/filter/gasket

Is it really necessary to buy a whole new pan? I asked at jaguarpartscenter.com and they said that the atf filter was part of the pan sump. is the filter built into the pan? I've seen some on ebay where it's just the filter but I hear every one saying that they threw out the old pan and put in the new one. why not just use the same one when it's perfectly fine?

 

There are a few threads with pictures of the level plug. maybe someone swapped out the allen bolt. I would!

 

As far as I know, there is no filter. Maybe there is a screen or strainer, but no actual filter. Perhaps someone who has seen the inside of the transmission pan can confirm that. I just changed the fluid, and did not remove the pan.

 

There is a drain plug or fill plug on the TC. Engineers put it there for a reason, what is the reason?

 

I know this is an old post, but I thought I'd comment anyway. Any ATF that meets the specs of "jatco 3100 / idemitsu k17" will work in our transmissions.

Also, the filter in our transmissions is only changeable when you rebuild the transmission. you can buy B&M Part b/m80277 - Remote Transmission Filter Kit - 4 Wheel Parts Tap into the top line and you'll be good.

 

Amsoil also has synthetic transmission oil available for Idemitsu K17 specification. I used it my 2003 X type and worked great.

AMSOIL Signature Series Multi-Vehicle Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid

 

If you look at the top of the forum you will see this link, "x-type-how-quick-links"
click on this link and it will have most if not all the information you need to do a auto trans Flush (the Key word is Flush) I followed the instructions and had no problem changing the fluid in my trans, transfer case, and rear end.
Also I used Royal Purple in the engine, trans, transfer case and rear end with on ill effect.
Follow the instructions completely.
Enjoy the Ride.

Smity

 

I'm not sure about the idea that there is a true split in final drive ratios between the front and back. If there is a 61/39 ratio split between the front and back it would not make any difference to run different diameter tires on the front and back - if the ratios are that much different anyway. I know there is a ratio change in the TC but thought it was corrected in the rear end to match the ratio of the front. If there is a true 61/39 ratio between the front wheels and rear wheels the transfer case has to make up the difference through its differential gear set, well, that is something I've never heard of, and a LOT to ask of a differential gear set. If the viscous coupler had that much differential speed in it, it would be constantly locked up. It would be like running two completely different tire diameters on the same axel. It would not last under those conditions - especially if it was limited slip. I don't think the X TC would either.

 

For those who want to know how the transfer box really works and distributes uneven torque to the front/back while maintaining the same speed for all four wheels, this little training document by Jaguar should answer everything! Enjoy!

 

The X-Type AWD Description fools you into thinking the front driveshafts might be driven by the transfer case but that isn't right. The right front driveshaft link shaft floats in the transfer case, it is not geared or splined to anything in the transfer case. The right front driveshaft (or more technically correct the front driveshaft linkshaft) goes all the way through the transfer case into the transmission and is driven by the right side spider gear in the transmission differential - section F of page 476 of the attachment. The left front driveshaft is driven by the left side spider gear in the transmission differential.

The transmission differential carrier (front wheel differential) and the transfer case planet carrier rotate as one unit. The differential action between the front wheel set and the rear drive shaft takes place in the transfer case planetary gear set.

 

The transmission does have a filter but the pan and valve body is on the side, and the filter is on the bottom. It looks like the filter cannot be changed without taking some parts out of the transmission. See page 477 of the attachment.